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#1
11-02-2014, 03:32 PM
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fabbing bracket for clutch ball stud?
First - thanks to everyone for your comments in my other thread about chaining my engine to prevent breaking my clutch ball stud in the future.
As it turns out, I am having one HECK of a time trying to drill on what is left of the stud in the block. Tried titanium coated as well as cobalt bits and ... no dice. Anyway, I noticed there appears to be a convenient set of three threaded holes in my bellhousing (mcleod) that might serve nicely as a place to mount a fabbed bracket instead. That way, if this happens again at least it will be a heck of a lot easier to fix. I've attached a pic of what I am talking about. What do you think? |
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#2
11-02-2014, 05:15 PM
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Try welding a nut to what is left in the block. Weld inside the nut and use a wrench to turn it out.
__________________
1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
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#3
11-02-2014, 06:01 PM
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You should be able to buy a bracket since most aftermarket bellhousings have provisions for bolting on a pivot ball bracket. Maybe a call to Summit Racing might be in order.
Either way you should have no problems using the bellhousing to mount the pivot ball, so long as it sits close enough to the block. |
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#4
11-02-2014, 06:03 PM
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If you decide to go with the McLeod deal you will have to pay attention to the ball height of the stock part vs the part you weld on a bracket that goes to the 3 bolts on the McLeod welded on bracket.
Otherwise the stock Z-bar will not be in the right position and the geometry of the bar will be screwed up. Much better to try to just get the "remains" out of the hole. Tom V.
__________________
"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
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#5
11-02-2014, 08:52 PM
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I will give Summit a try but I couldn't find anything with a web search. I do not have a welder but I am thinking to do this hobby right I am going to have to be able to do some basic welding and fabrication, so I am looking at some basic arc welders now. I don't think I need a MIG since I don't have any intention of doing body work.
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#6
11-02-2014, 09:01 PM
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Tom I agree re: correctly locating the ball stud, but I think I can do that with a threaded setup that allows me to adjust the ball depth. But it seems like anything I can up with as an alternative would better than having another stud break off in the block.
Of course, could be I won't break another one after I chain the engine down ... |
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#7
11-03-2014, 12:44 PM
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I use my Hobart mig to weld 1/4 steel. See if you can have some one weld a nut like 67spud said.
Are you close to me? |
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#8
11-03-2014, 01:37 PM
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Maybe get a small cold chisel in there and try to turn the remains of the stud CCW. Sometimes a few taps is all it needs to come loose.
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#9
11-03-2014, 02:01 PM
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How about a small diameter abrasive disc like for a Dremel tool, cut a slot in the remaining surface for a screwdriver. It'll only work if the threads are not bound up tho....
George
__________________
"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
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#10
11-03-2014, 03:09 PM
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You really should be able to drill out the offending broken stud using a series of sharp drill bits. Start with a 1/8" bit and work your way up to a 5/16" bit which is the same as the minor diameter of the 3/8-16 threaded stud. Carefully center punch it directly on center before starting, use a nice sharp punch and hit it hard to make sure the drill starts on center.
If the engine is still in the car you're really not going to be able have the access needed to drill it out. |
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#11
11-03-2014, 03:14 PM
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Yeah the engine is still in the car, that's why I want to make a bracket instead. I don't want to have to pull the engine every time I break one of these. Even if I could get it with the engine in the car, I have to remove the header to get to it. I figure with a bracket, I should be able to just drop the starter, pull the bracket, and fix it on the bench.
Is trying to work up a bracket really that bad of an idea? Seems like a lot of you favor me trying to get this thing out instead of making a bracket. |
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#12
11-03-2014, 03:57 PM
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Nothing wrong with making a bracket.
The only issue is the distance from the end of the ball compared to your Z-bar. If there's no way you can make a bracket that puts the ball at the correct position using a bracket then you'll have no choice but to fix the broken stud. |
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#13
11-03-2014, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
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#14
11-04-2014, 09:10 AM
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Z-bar tube can be shortened on the block end side to work with the stud being farther away from the engine block .
Last edited by chrisp; 11-04-2014 at 09:11 AM. Reason: add |
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#15
11-04-2014, 02:34 PM
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What about a right angle drill?
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#16
11-04-2014, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
I think I will try the bracket. I may fail, but I have got to get better at this stuff and being able to fabricate a small bracket or brace here and there seems like it should be something every car guy can do. |
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#17
11-04-2014, 03:28 PM
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Didnt know that stud was so hard. You can't get someone with a mig to come over? A lug nut welded onto it would get it right out. I see these portable guys all over with mobile equiptment repair. I sure would do that before all the trouble of a one off fabbed bracket. Plus any mods to the car frame or Z bar to make it all fit and operate correctly.But thats just me ; )
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#18
11-04-2014, 03:51 PM
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Yeah if I thought it wouldn't break again I would figure out a way to get it out. But I think there is a pretty good chance it will break again.
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#19
11-05-2014, 07:54 AM
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i'd say, pull the motor
get at it nice and easy may want to heat the outside of the area where that stud is too, but before that soak it with PB blaster its a VERY course thread and you may be able to get it out with some finangling buy a new OEM stock one in, and use a solid motor on the drivers side shouldn't have any more flexing issues that would cause this to break then you can replace it every once in a while to prevent this from happening again that is what i did when i broke mine, in my TA there was NO room to drill out in the car |
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#20
11-05-2014, 10:54 AM
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Have you thought about a hydraulic clutch option? I put one in my car this summer and love it. No more linkage and if your worried about it happening again, well.....
And my vote is for a mig welder over the stick for sure.
__________________
1969 GTO 4spd. Antique Gold/black, gold int. 1969 GTO RAIII 4spd. Verdoro Green/black, black int. 1969 GTO 4spd. Crystal Turquoise, black int. 1970 GTO 4spd VOE Pepper Green, green int. 1967 LeMans 428 Auto. Blue, black int. |
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