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chiefbigb · 03-06-2022, 09:43 AM

20/50 oil at .003 3in main clearance and .0025 rods seems to net around 35 psi hot idle and 75 ish psi at 6500 with a 80 psi pump. I used a .070 shim on the blower engine and nitro 50w oil. That engine was started at the burn out area and did not build much oil temp. 100 psi was common.

chuckies76ta · 03-06-2022, 11:31 AM

Thanks for posting Chief. I just was looking at my build and here is a bit of info. It's a 505 cu in. The hole in the lifter bore bushings is .081 We have 65 to 68 psi at start up. drops to around 35 when hot. Running a 160 deg thermostat. Bearings are at .0035 on 3" mains. Rods are at .0025. Were running Amsoil 20w-50. I'm running a 60 lb oil pump with a few mods to it.
I have been wondering if we should change to an 80 lb pump?

cfmcnc · 03-06-2022, 03:01 PM

WE did pre production testing for Isky on the bushed lifters,We have them running with 400#plus seat pressure,1200# plus open pressure at 1.00inch plus net lift some at 1.100..They were the first to introduce this style .They did a lot of Spintron hours on test pieces.Isky is our first choice ,

opeliac · 03-06-2022, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cfmcnc

WE did pre production testing for Isky on the bushed lifters,We have them running with 400#plus seat pressure,1200# plus open pressure at 1.00inch plus net lift some at 1.100..They were the first to introduce this style .They did a lot of Spintron hours on test pieces.Isky is our first choice ,

So an .840 lift turbocharged drag week combo shouldnt be an issue for them?

cfmcnc · 03-07-2022, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by opeliac

So an .840 lift turbocharged drag week combo shouldnt be an issue for them?

AS long as the valve springs are correct for application and set up correctly.
Correctly means checking net lift with loaded spring and lash as the engine sees.Set springs off this net lift numberBill C..

Dragncar · 03-07-2022, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve C.

Dragncar

Instead of buying new lifters why not have Crower rebuild your current lifters ?
And they can add the Hi Pressure Pin Oiling option.

https://www.crower.com/rebuilt-your-roller-lifters

.

Well, they are new and Crower tech told me I should run them as is and only rebuild them after I get my use out of them in there current state.
I will put them on the shelf. Have a new set of Comps also.
Setting myself up for when I retire I can still race with all the Pontiac junk I have laying around.
No plans to stop racing so having 3 engines and a bunch of parts will suit me well on a fixed income as a old man.

Steve C. · 03-07-2022, 07:26 PM

Sorry for the confusion, I thought your Crower lifters were used and without the pin oiling option.

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Dragncar · 03-09-2022, 01:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve C.

Sorry for the confusion, I thought your Crower lifters were used and without the pin oiling option.

.

No problem. I ordered the BAM lifters with DLC coating today.
Going to have to start putting all this stuff together.
I want from using basic Crower/Comp non pin oiled needle bearing lifters with Aluminum Crower rockers and KRE stud girdle, to the pin oiled BAM steel bushed lifters with Crower SS Endura shaft rockers.
2700$ later, not much more I can do to this engine. Only money I guess.
Most things that are fun and cool are not cheap.

Darren 639 · 03-09-2022, 03:47 PM

OK so I’m glad I came across the thread I’m sure I would’ve found the oil feed hole is just a little too small. .I have the crower EZ roll max bushed red zone series roller lifters going into a new build they are .904 sizing my aluminum block has been nicely bushed but the oil feed hole is only .021. Has anyone ever had to open the hole up with the bushing already installed? I am very doubtful I will be able to do installed but was wondering if has anyone tried it. Thank you for any input you guys may have for me.

chuckies76ta · 09:10 AM

I don't have any suggestions, but my thinking is that is way too small as well. Guys have mentioned .100 and I know mine are .081 as it's on the build sheet. I flowed mine with the priming tool on distributor with the lifters out and there was plenty oil moving inside the bushings. I wish I would have taken a video. You would almost need a dental drill that would fit in the lifter bore. Need something like this.
https://www.aptoolsltd.co.uk/shop/dy...female-thread/

https://www.amazon.ca/Motion-Pro-08-...90184618&psc=1

chiefbigb · 03-10-2022, 01:21 PM

I will look at my iron block and see if I can come up with something over the weekend. I have tapped out many stock blocks for restrictors so in theory you could do it with a hand drill but the ia blocks have taller lifter bores

Steve C. · 03-10-2022, 02:52 PM

If interested....

Butler Performance Oil Restrictor, 1/4" x 20 thread with .045 hole.

https://butlerperformance.com/i-2445...%3Drestrictors

I use 0.060 for my street application. Bought them predrilled from Paul Spotts.

.

mgarblik · 03-10-2022, 11:16 PM

You could open those .021 holes up with the lifter bushings installed using a pin vise and turning the drill by hand. Probably need to go up about .020" at a time to reach whatever size your going for. Cleaning out the passage will be critical once finished of course. I would run a camera through the passage when finished to make sure they are absolutely clean. I have also carefully driven the bushings out, drilled larger holes in another location and driven them back in with the new hole exposed to the feed. Saves a couple hundred bucks for new bushings. But you will need to do a little touch-up hone on them once re-installed. Either way will work.

Darren 639 · 03-11-2022, 11:04 AM

I am going to push them out. Can’t drill on that steep of angle if there is no damage I’ll drill them and reinstall. I need to learn how to hone the bushing after reinstalling. Don’t mind replacing with new but would have to look into what is required for hone job to .904. . I install new bushings on every pump, tail shaft , clutch drums and any other bushings required for automatic transmission rebuilding. but they are always a perfect fit once in a while you may have to De-burr a little tooling marks but other than that there’s no sizing after they are installed.

Darren 639 · 03-11-2022, 11:07 AM

Steve and chief, thank you for your input I have used those 1/4” plugs on stock blocks. much easier to get the correct angle for the tap to fit with the short lifter bore.

Darren 639 · 03-11-2022, 11:16 AM

Thank you to Chuck. I have this similar tool. I used to use my airframe and power plant license to work on aircraft. we had to get into tight spots to drill rivets out I could buy different size bits and such but it still won’t fit in the bore. Thank you too.

grandville455 · 03-11-2022, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darren 639

I am going to push them out. Can’t drill on that steep of angle if there is no damage I’ll drill them and reinstall. I need to learn how to hone the bushing after reinstalling. Don’t mind replacing with new but would have to look into what is required for hone job to .904. . I install new bushings on every pump, tail shaft , clutch drums and any other bushings required for automatic transmission rebuilding. but they are always a perfect fit once in a while you may have to De-burr a little tooling marks but other than that there’s no sizing after they are installed.

I had a place in southern wi drill mine out with them installed? He just used a hand drill, then honed them after with a drill also,they were perfect for my morel lifters for clearances!

mgarblik · 03-11-2022, 05:18 PM

Here is a pic of the pin vise I would use for this. This is hand operated. Two fingers. If you could make this work would save allot of time and effort.