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#1
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I have a M-22 but need to change because of the gearing. Can't get the boat going. 60ft are 1.9-2.0. 3.73 12 bolt. Don't really want to put in 4.10's. I need the gearing in a
M20 but can it hold up to high hp engines. Only have about 400hp now but always playing. I have a m20 I can rebuild. Thought someone makes a M22 with M20 gear ratio's, maybe wrong. It's a REAL pain to take out the trans because of the headers having to come out. Riverside Gear has a new M20 for sale $1200.00 sound good. Has anyone used Riverside before. Almost al of the info on here has been good, so let me hear from my 4-speed brotheran See Ya Dave
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New Motor: 6-13-12 P-Dude 67 GTO 406, 670 heads, RPM, 750 Holley P-Dude Cam, M-22 4-speed, Centerforce clutch, 12-Bolt 4.56 275/60R15 M/T Drag Radials Old Motor: New PB 4-21-11 : 12.460 @ 109.97 1.844 60' ' ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#2
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not for long!Tom
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#3
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I know I never had a true 400 hp in my 64 GTO in the 60s. I went through a couple of the M-20s before I went to a M-22 trans. Trans were cheap in the old days relatively speaking. The failure happens typically with a good tire, a good surface, and you are going into 3rd gear which has the least support being in the middle of the trans gear set. The gears mesh spreads out between the main shaft gears and the cluster gears and you shell the teeth off. The early cluster gear support shafts were small in diameter. The later trans had a larger diameter support shaft.
I would say no, not for long. Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#4
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I guess it was kind of a already know the answer before I ask the question thing. Ok so I put a 4.10 gear into my 12 bolt gm(chevy) rear end, will the stock axles, bearings posi unti hold up the Pontiac power. I really only have (guessing) 375 HP right now, but she runs 12.7-12.8's & 106mph pretty consistant now. Heads are bone stock, hope to port,polish,valves thing next. 4.10's will be a blast but gas will really suck & what will I break next. I'm not whining love my 4-speed to much. Not going to the dark side(A/T)
Dave
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New Motor: 6-13-12 P-Dude 67 GTO 406, 670 heads, RPM, 750 Holley P-Dude Cam, M-22 4-speed, Centerforce clutch, 12-Bolt 4.56 275/60R15 M/T Drag Radials Old Motor: New PB 4-21-11 : 12.460 @ 109.97 1.844 60' ' ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#5
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AutoGear M-22 Supercase. They will build it with ratios you are looking for. Do a google search for details.
One of the reasons that the M-22 is stronger is the fact that it has that 2.20 1st gear and it puts a bit less stress on the tranny during launch by off loading some stress to the reargear. |
#6
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Yes it will take it. But............... you have to tear it apart and basically blueprint it and close up the sloppy endplay clearances and such. Plus replace the slider hubs with BW units. Better material. Use the 3 long dog hub assemblies.
I use to race and street race the dog out of the wide ratio units with BBC and 11 second cars. Back in the day. But did a lots of internal mods to make them last. You got it backwards. A close ratio is harder on the internals then a 2.52 as it puts more load on the tranny under good hooking load to get a launch. |
#7
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p-dude is right. clean up the clearances use quality brass and sliders and dont feed it a steady diet of 6500 rpm powershifts and it will live.
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69 GTO 11:66@114.17 all balls no bottle 406 d-port iron heads 3700lbs all steel |
#8
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Gentleman just a little room for thought check this out.....www.m-22.com
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#9
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![]() Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#10
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I ran mid 11's with a M22 many years ago, ran high 11's with my current GTO and a M22 with 4.10's. I have also destroyed them about every way you can think of, including twisting the ears off. However, my big problem was getting a clutch to last. If you are serious about racing a 4 speed check out the clutch that Guidos is using. I would also recommend 1350 U joints and Moser axles. Goodluck -Jim
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#11
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But guys 6000 side steps are the only reason TO have a stick
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#12
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I like the way you think! I launch the same way, it will either haul a$$ or break something! My only problem was having the bucks to play! -Jim
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#13
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Anybody ever tried to get one to live by intentionally using a smaller slick/radial, maybe a little too much air pressure and don't do a full burnout, etc.?
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#14
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best way to make one live is low gears (4.10)with skinny street tires.Tom
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#15
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FWIW, this exact question (except 500-600hp/tq) is exactly what has caused me to change my tranny from an M20 (planned) to a TKO600.
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#16
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Well the M-22 is going back in. Well I'm trying to get it back in. I've had is in/out bunch of times. The only big problem is I get it within about 1-1 1/2 inches & it stops. I think it is the inputshaft nose not going into the crankshaft pilot bearing. I always have to play with it oor a while, move it around to try to get it in. Anybody got any neat tricks to get is lined up better. Had the old tranny, headers all out in 2 hours. Then spent next hour & half fighting wiht it. Gave up & drank more beer. Got to be something to make to go in easier. Help !!!!!
Dave
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New Motor: 6-13-12 P-Dude 67 GTO 406, 670 heads, RPM, 750 Holley P-Dude Cam, M-22 4-speed, Centerforce clutch, 12-Bolt 4.56 275/60R15 M/T Drag Radials Old Motor: New PB 4-21-11 : 12.460 @ 109.97 1.844 60' ' ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#17
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Take a couple of long bolts (the same thread as the transmission to bellhousing bolts) and cut the heads off the bolts.
Hand screw the bolts into the bellhousing after you make sure that the clutch disc is centered properly with a spare input shaft or clutch disc tool. Now you can stick the trans on the bolts and take the weight off your back while messing around getting the input shaft splines to line up and the input snout into the pilot bearing. Do NOT try and pull the trans into position using bolts. If you had the disc centered properly typically the trans well be clost to going in. Sometimes you need to turn the input shaft slightly which can be done with a spare yoke on the output shaft or by using a rag and a pair of channel locks on the output shaft to move it slightly when the trans is in 1st gear. Hope that helps. Tom Vaught
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#18
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sometimes that bearing will fall down....and keep you 1.5 or so inches out
Gotta stake it into place
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Clay Marsh 1967 GTO convertible Twin Turbo 5spd project http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...d.php?t=618281 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ9KworCMRE |
#19
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Exactly the same conditions which killed my Super T-10. The trans split across the case and chewed up the gears. It's demise was in the middle of second gear and the engine pulling hard........BOOM.
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Home of WFO Hyperformance Shaker induction. |
#20
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First turn the engine over just a tad by hand while someone is pushing on the trans.
next is to depress the clutch slightly while wiggling the trans slightly and pushing it in. If you got it that far either or both of those things will work and as Tom suggests with the longer bolts,dont leave it hanging by them,always support the trans with a jack. |
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