Pontiac - Race The next Level

          
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  #1  
Old 08-01-2008, 09:22 PM
davsgto davsgto is offline
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Default Will M-20 take 450-500 HP

I have a M-22 but need to change because of the gearing. Can't get the boat going. 60ft are 1.9-2.0. 3.73 12 bolt. Don't really want to put in 4.10's. I need the gearing in a
M20 but can it hold up to high hp engines. Only have about 400hp now but always playing. I have a m20 I can rebuild. Thought someone makes a M22 with M20 gear ratio's, maybe wrong. It's a REAL pain to take out the trans because of the headers having to come out. Riverside Gear has a new M20 for sale $1200.00 sound good. Has anyone used Riverside before. Almost al of the info on here has been good, so let me hear from my 4-speed brotheran

See Ya
Dave

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  #2  
Old 08-01-2008, 09:39 PM
tom s tom s is offline
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not for long!Tom

  #3  
Old 08-01-2008, 09:49 PM
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I know I never had a true 400 hp in my 64 GTO in the 60s. I went through a couple of the M-20s before I went to a M-22 trans. Trans were cheap in the old days relatively speaking. The failure happens typically with a good tire, a good surface, and you are going into 3rd gear which has the least support being in the middle of the trans gear set. The gears mesh spreads out between the main shaft gears and the cluster gears and you shell the teeth off. The early cluster gear support shafts were small in diameter. The later trans had a larger diameter support shaft.

I would say no, not for long.

Tom V.

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Old 08-01-2008, 10:22 PM
davsgto davsgto is offline
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I guess it was kind of a already know the answer before I ask the question thing. Ok so I put a 4.10 gear into my 12 bolt gm(chevy) rear end, will the stock axles, bearings posi unti hold up the Pontiac power. I really only have (guessing) 375 HP right now, but she runs 12.7-12.8's & 106mph pretty consistant now. Heads are bone stock, hope to port,polish,valves thing next. 4.10's will be a blast but gas will really suck & what will I break next. I'm not whining love my 4-speed to much. Not going to the dark side(A/T)

Dave

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New Motor: 6-13-12 P-Dude 67 GTO 406, 670 heads, RPM, 750 Holley P-Dude Cam, M-22 4-speed, Centerforce clutch, 12-Bolt 4.56 275/60R15 M/T Drag Radials


Old Motor: New PB 4-21-11 : 12.460 @ 109.97 1.844 60'
'
  #5  
Old 08-01-2008, 11:24 PM
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AutoGear M-22 Supercase. They will build it with ratios you are looking for. Do a google search for details.

One of the reasons that the M-22 is stronger is the fact that it has that 2.20 1st gear and it puts a bit less stress on the tranny during launch by off loading some stress to the reargear.

  #6  
Old 08-02-2008, 12:44 PM
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PONTIAC DUDE PONTIAC DUDE is offline
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Yes it will take it. But............... you have to tear it apart and basically blueprint it and close up the sloppy endplay clearances and such. Plus replace the slider hubs with BW units. Better material. Use the 3 long dog hub assemblies.

I use to race and street race the dog out of the wide ratio units with BBC and 11 second cars. Back in the day. But did a lots of internal mods to make them last.

You got it backwards. A close ratio is harder on the internals then a 2.52 as it puts more load on the tranny under good hooking load to get a launch.

  #7  
Old 08-02-2008, 03:42 PM
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p-dude is right. clean up the clearances use quality brass and sliders and dont feed it a steady diet of 6500 rpm powershifts and it will live.

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  #8  
Old 08-02-2008, 07:00 PM
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Gentleman just a little room for thought check this out.....www.m-22.com

  #9  
Old 08-02-2008, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JUDGGTO69 View Post
Gentleman just a little room for thought check this out.....www.m-22.com
Now that's the way to go JUDGGTO69. Thanks for the link.

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  #10  
Old 08-02-2008, 10:54 PM
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I ran mid 11's with a M22 many years ago, ran high 11's with my current GTO and a M22 with 4.10's. I have also destroyed them about every way you can think of, including twisting the ears off. However, my big problem was getting a clutch to last. If you are serious about racing a 4 speed check out the clutch that Guidos is using. I would also recommend 1350 U joints and Moser axles. Goodluck -Jim

  #11  
Old 08-03-2008, 09:24 AM
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But guys 6000 side steps are the only reason TO have a stick

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  #12  
Old 08-03-2008, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip Fix View Post
But guys 6000 side steps are the only reason TO have a stick
I like the way you think! I launch the same way, it will either haul a$$ or break something! My only problem was having the bucks to play! -Jim

  #13  
Old 08-03-2008, 03:24 PM
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Anybody ever tried to get one to live by intentionally using a smaller slick/radial, maybe a little too much air pressure and don't do a full burnout, etc.?

  #14  
Old 08-03-2008, 04:57 PM
tom s tom s is offline
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best way to make one live is low gears (4.10)with skinny street tires.Tom

  #15  
Old 08-03-2008, 05:01 PM
wmhjr wmhjr is offline
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FWIW, this exact question (except 500-600hp/tq) is exactly what has caused me to change my tranny from an M20 (planned) to a TKO600.

  #16  
Old 08-03-2008, 06:50 PM
davsgto davsgto is offline
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Well the M-22 is going back in. Well I'm trying to get it back in. I've had is in/out bunch of times. The only big problem is I get it within about 1-1 1/2 inches & it stops. I think it is the inputshaft nose not going into the crankshaft pilot bearing. I always have to play with it oor a while, move it around to try to get it in. Anybody got any neat tricks to get is lined up better. Had the old tranny, headers all out in 2 hours. Then spent next hour & half fighting wiht it. Gave up & drank more beer. Got to be something to make to go in easier. Help !!!!!

Dave

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New Motor: 6-13-12 P-Dude 67 GTO 406, 670 heads, RPM, 750 Holley P-Dude Cam, M-22 4-speed, Centerforce clutch, 12-Bolt 4.56 275/60R15 M/T Drag Radials


Old Motor: New PB 4-21-11 : 12.460 @ 109.97 1.844 60'
'
  #17  
Old 08-03-2008, 07:01 PM
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Take a couple of long bolts (the same thread as the transmission to bellhousing bolts) and cut the heads off the bolts.

Hand screw the bolts into the bellhousing after you make sure that the clutch disc is centered properly with a spare input shaft or clutch disc tool.

Now you can stick the trans on the bolts and take the weight off your back while messing around getting the input shaft splines to line up and the input snout into the pilot bearing.

Do NOT try and pull the trans into position using bolts.

If you had the disc centered properly typically the trans well be clost to going in. Sometimes you need to turn the input shaft slightly which can be done with a spare yoke on the output shaft or by using a rag and a pair of channel locks on the output shaft to move it slightly when the trans is in 1st gear.

Hope that helps.

Tom Vaught

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  #18  
Old 08-03-2008, 11:06 PM
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sometimes that bearing will fall down....and keep you 1.5 or so inches out

Gotta stake it into place

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  #19  
Old 08-04-2008, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Vaught View Post
The failure happens typically with a good tire, a good surface, and you are going into 3rd gear which has the least support being in the middle of the trans gear set. Tom V.
Exactly the same conditions which killed my Super T-10. The trans split across the case and chewed up the gears. It's demise was in the middle of second gear and the engine pulling hard........BOOM.

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  #20  
Old 08-04-2008, 10:16 AM
Cammer-6 Cammer-6 is offline
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First turn the engine over just a tad by hand while someone is pushing on the trans.
next is to depress the clutch slightly while wiggling the trans slightly and pushing it in.
If you got it that far either or both of those things will work and as Tom suggests with the longer bolts,dont leave it hanging by them,always support the trans with a jack.

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