[Schoust]

Ok guy's I am pondering what to use to try to minimize the carnage? I have heard that the M/t's have the best bite off the line which to me is great but with a stick I am afraid of instant breakage? I was told that the BFG's with a stick is a good way to go because they will spin a bit when hit hard?? Meant to put this in the race forum.....

[shaker455]

Ralph,
If your making a lot of power regaurdless it will transmitt to the weakest link.

I have M/T ET Streets and they work good.

[i82much]

I've been thinking a lot about this topic. I don't have a good answer but I know more gear will help the trans/clutch live. So it stands to reason a shorter tire should help as well. Something 26" tall, with a harder compound. In my case I have a 505 IA2, a Strange S60, and a (gasp!) M20. So I am far more concerned about the trans than the rear.

I believe there is a relatively-long lasting Nitto tire, called something like a 555r? Not sure what sizes it comes in though, probably not a 26.

[kookykrispy]

As far as drag radials, I have heard the MT's grab much better than the BFG's. From what I understand, alot of guys with the MT radials are hooking up damn near as hard as running real slicks. If you are going to dragrace a 4-speed car with sticky tires, and really beat on it with any kind of good traction, you're probably going to break stuff eventually, if you are making any kind of serious power. Depending on how much torque your engine is putting out, be prepared for any stock components of your drivetrain to grenade. Hard launches and full-throttle powershifts are incredibly abusive on your entire drivetrain... but it is awesome and fun as hell! Don't be scared of it... this is part of the fun, and breaking stuff and then fixing it to be stronger is what racing is all about!

Before you go launching a high-powered 4-speed car, I would urge you to make sure you have at least the following two things in place for your own safety and peace-of-mind: A blow-proof bellhousing and a good driveshaft loop. The blowproof bellhousing will save you from a potential nasty flying shrapnel injury if your clutch or flywheel decides to let go. The driveshaft loop will prevent your car from pole-vaulting on the driveshaft into the guardrail in the event of a front u-joint failure.

If you are really wanting to avoid stock drivetrain parts breakage, stick with street radials and just have fun.

In my street/strip 67 GTO I'm putting together, I am running a 6-71 blown 455, an Autogear Supercase M22w, and a custom 9 inch rear with moser shafts, 3.25 gears, and a detroit locker. I do have a lakewood bellhousing for it, but haven't decided on what to do for a clutch/flywheel/driveshaft yet. I wanted to run sticky tires and a 4-speed at the track without worries... but also I was willing to spend the big $$ on the heavy duty drivetrain. When I'm done, I'll probably have as much money invested my drivetrain as I do in my shortblock. There's still no guarantees.

[David Holmberg]

What do you want them for?

The BFG is more of a real street tire, that you can drive around.
The MT hooks great and lasts for a while.
The Hoosier is wider and hooks even better, but doesn't last very long.

If you're afraid of breakage but still want to run well, try the BFG's or the Nitto's first.

[Schoust]

Well here is the thing I am finally wrapping up my restoration and by the time I finish there won't be a whole lot of cash for repairs. So my thinking is I would like to use a tire that will give me a bit more traction than a regular BFG radial tire but will give a bit and not take the trans and rear with it. The car will be driven and raced so it will be used as an all around vehicle. I do have a scatter shield and a drive shaft loop so that is covered. I also have a nine inch that I want to use eventually but for now I think I will stay with the stock rear end at least for this season or until it breaks. The engine makes decent torque over 500 ft lbs from 2k to red line so the possibility of breakage is there. So should I just go with the nine right away or use the stocker? Oh I will need to get a drive shaft for either set up because my stocker was for the original 350 and I don't think it will be up to the task even with new U joint's?? Forgot to add the rear is a 350 gear with a muncie M-21 trans. What size tire will be optimal??
Thanks

[i82much]

If it was me I'd put the 9 in now. I don't know if it's something that actually happens but you could imagine breaking a spider and having it wedge between the ring gear & housing, lock up the rear and go skidding into the wall. Breaking a rear seems like it could be dangerous at 100 mph.

[Schoust]

Whats funny Dude is I can imagine all sorts of scenarios and none of them are positive Lol! Seriously I want to do things right without going to divorce court! I know there are some guy's that can relate to that statement! Anyway I love the look of the factory wheels but they are 14 inch and that won't work with the tire I have in mind. So I think I will have to go for the nine inch install after all because as much as my Bud tells me that the old poncho rear will hold up i don't think it will behind the stick and sticky tires.....By the way if anyone has any nine inch break stuff please P.m me..........................

[i82much]

I broke a couple 8.2's on the street back in the day with a 4 speed. Both times I lunched the spiders. You could feel the car jerk every time the ring gear jammed into one of the broken spider gears in the case. Mine never locked up, but I bet it wouldn't have been pretty if it had.

[GTOLou]

The Nitto DR's are a great street tire - because they go up in smoke easily. Seriously, they are pretty hard and don't get traction too well. Prolly a decent choice for our friend above running an IAII w/ an M20. If you get any traction - you'll need an upgrade. Go to:

http://www.autogear.net/

talk with George and upgrade to one of their M22Ws. If you want it super-strong, then the standard M22 w/ lower rear gear. It is a nice tranny, because it is a drop in, without any mods, etc.

I am putting an IAII w/ my autogear M22W in a 69 gto vert. - and I'll worry about it the trans. I have 3.42 gears and plan on switching to 26 or 26.5 slicks from my 28's from last year to protect the tranny. 12 bolt, eaton posi, forged axles. I just spec'ed in a quicktime bellhousing (so far so good) and I already have an aftermarket driveshaft, spicer u-joints and safety loop.

I think "most" folks will tell you that the MT DRs grab better, wear faster than the BFG DRs.

[Red Coupe]

"Well here is the thing I am finally wrapping up my restoration and by the time I finish there won't be a whole lot of cash for repairs. So my thinking is I would like to use a tire that will give me a bit more traction than a regular BFG radial tire but will give a bit and not take the trans and rear with it. The car will be driven and raced so it will be used as an all around vehicle."

My friend, you have a built-in conflict if you plan to race with no money... If you are going to race anyway, put the 9 in and at least you can get some $$ for the 8.2 before it's broken...

[Schoust]

Cool so the Bfg's it is! What size so you guy's recamend with my combo? Should I stay with a 26 inch tall tire with my 3.50 gear??

[i82much]

Originally Posted by GTOLou

The Nitto DR's are a great street tire - because they go up in smoke easily. Seriously, they are pretty hard and don't get traction too well. Prolly a decent choice for our friend above running an IAII w/ an M20.

Indeed - I'm actually glad to hear they spin pretty easy. I wanted something where I could pull up on the street next to a newer 'vette or something, with just drag shocks on the front of my car and no other mods and get enough traction to walk him out to 80 mph or so, but don't want to dead hook out of the hole by any means! nothing crazy and probably no or very limited track time.

anybody ever driven a jerico w/the road race sliders on the street? seems like the next logical step past the supercase m22.

[lust4speed]

Here's my personal opinion. I have run MT, BFG and Nitto drag radials. I would rate them by assigning the MT tire a 100 in traction for somewhere to start, then the BFG's are a 90, the Nitto's are an 85, and new BFG Radial TA's are a 50. For wet weather the Nitto is just behind the TA, and the BFG and MT tires are scary. I purchased the Nitto's because of the 4-speed and wanting to be able to drive it in the real world. The Mt is a super great traction tire, but it seems that I could almost see the wear after every cruise.

[Schoust]

Yes indeed not having Lot's of dough to do what you want is a real bumber Red Coupe but to me I will look to try and minimize the carnage so to speak. If and when it breaks depending on what breaks I will deal with it like everyone else does......
Thanks

[Red Coupe]

My experience with 275 50 15 Nitos:

Hook great in hot weather.

Work good in the rain.

Good for 7500 mi or so with a mild beating.

Hook worse than regular radials in cold weather.

[mudbird]

Maybe I'm stating the obvious, but you could play with air pressure to lessen the " hit "or traction off the line. This is what I do with bias slicks on my QT pro's. If you launch hard with something that has bite it is fun, but can be expensive.

[Larry Navarro]

BFG 275/50-15

FWIW....I grenaded the original Super T10 in my '79 with BFG drag radials.
The rest of the driveline stayed intact.
I do have an LPW rear cover and that may have prevented the rear-end from going south too.