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#1
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I have recently installed a 455 block and T400 into my '71 GT-37. This one should run mis-10's at 3600 lbs (662 HP/612 TQ). I bought solid motor mounts from Perf Yrs.After getting the motor, headers (2" hookers), and the T400 in, I found the back of the trans about 3/4" off center towards the drivers side. I could get the bolts to just go in the cross-member, but only with a huge amount of force from a large crowbar. After thinking about it all day, I decided to loosen the motor mount bolts, (long ones), the mount to engine block bolts, and the nuts holding the plates to the frame. I thought this would give me enough "slop" to get that 3/4' back so I wouldn't have to have a pre-torqued transmission. It didn't work. I maybe got 1/4" , so it still is about a half inch off. Is this critical??
Has anyone experienced this with solid mounts? Also, has anyone using solid mounts kept the stock rubber ends on the cross member, or should the rubbers be taken out and bolt the cross member directly to the frame? HELP_ I'M CONFUSED and so close to being done!!!! ------------------ GT37
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GT37 3625lbs..Fastest bench seat, column shift, all steel,no power adders car at Norwalk 1.35 w/29.5x10.5x15 6.42 @ 109 10.09 @ 133 |
#2
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I have recently installed a 455 block and T400 into my '71 GT-37. This one should run mis-10's at 3600 lbs (662 HP/612 TQ). I bought solid motor mounts from Perf Yrs.After getting the motor, headers (2" hookers), and the T400 in, I found the back of the trans about 3/4" off center towards the drivers side. I could get the bolts to just go in the cross-member, but only with a huge amount of force from a large crowbar. After thinking about it all day, I decided to loosen the motor mount bolts, (long ones), the mount to engine block bolts, and the nuts holding the plates to the frame. I thought this would give me enough "slop" to get that 3/4' back so I wouldn't have to have a pre-torqued transmission. It didn't work. I maybe got 1/4" , so it still is about a half inch off. Is this critical??
Has anyone experienced this with solid mounts? Also, has anyone using solid mounts kept the stock rubber ends on the cross member, or should the rubbers be taken out and bolt the cross member directly to the frame? HELP_ I'M CONFUSED and so close to being done!!!! ------------------ GT37
__________________
GT37 3625lbs..Fastest bench seat, column shift, all steel,no power adders car at Norwalk 1.35 w/29.5x10.5x15 6.42 @ 109 10.09 @ 133 |
#3
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I had this same problem on my '64 GTO. I have run both solid and stock front mounts. Since it is street car, I went back to the stock mounts. On the GTO I stayed with the rubber mounts for the cross member. To align it I loosened the saddles only, not the long bolts. I put a cum along on the side of the transmission (4 spd) and the frame and forced it to center, then bolted it down with the cum along still attached. On the '64 Tempest I used the Chevelle cross member and bolted it to the frame. This one is a track only car so I wanted everything solid. I had to use the same technique as the GTO, but it wasn't as hard. The Tempest is a T-400.
------------------ Jim |
#4
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Something to check as I installed solid mounts on my 66 GTO and the length from the mount to the bolt hole for the long bolt is different on each side. If you put them on backwards nothing lines up. And the engine is off-center in my car. I take it this is normal for clearance from the factory. Was that way with the stock mounts. Not much but measureable. Later. http://sites.netscape.net/pontiacdude428/homepage
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#5
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I used the solid mounts and then bolted the trans. Works fine.
Bruce |
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