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#21
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Was the vacuum hose disconnected from the nipple BEFORE you took the fuel tube off?
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But it would still seem to be even flashing, what I hear being described is uneven flashing accompanied by misfire. Quote:
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That's not the distributor condenser. That one is for the voltage regulator. There'll be another one on the + side of the coil. It isn't that one, either. The one in the distributor is electrically connected to the - side of the coil, but it's housed in the distributor. Those plugs are way darker than I'd expect given their low mileage--250 miles. Using some sort of fuel additive? Mixture overly-rich? Fuel curve wrong? Choke stuck on? Idle mixture screws not adjusted properly? I hate evil, repetitive Tapatalk advertising. Last edited by Schurkey; 09-26-2021 at 10:20 PM. |
#22
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OP mentioned that he had swapped the carb out in a diagnosis attempt. Maybe the pic is during that swap.
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#23
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I was running an octane booster (forget the name - will look in garage alter today). I didn't set up the carb fuel mixture, I assumed that it was done at time of restoration, but could be wrong.
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Three times the sound peaks, falls back, peaks again. A throttling back to cruising speed, a dwindling grumble of thunder and...gone. The frogs take up where they left off. |
#24
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Have you tried a different coil ?
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#25
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Could be the point contacts are burnt. The over the counter points that are sold these days burn easily, especially when the ballast resistor sends to much voltage to them. The OEM sets in the past were much better, but too much voltage would kill them fairly quickly to. Usually points start missing at the higher rpms, and as the problem gets worse it starts to run rough at lower rpms to.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jay S For This Useful Post: | ||
#26
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No, I don't think I have one (unless I pull the one out of my '70 Trans Am). Again, this coil is brand new, but we know how that goes these days...
So a bad coil could also cause the problems am having as well?
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Three times the sound peaks, falls back, peaks again. A throttling back to cruising speed, a dwindling grumble of thunder and...gone. The frogs take up where they left off. |
#27
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Three times the sound peaks, falls back, peaks again. A throttling back to cruising speed, a dwindling grumble of thunder and...gone. The frogs take up where they left off. |
#28
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I don’t know of any high quality point available new other than a couple decade old NOS points on eBay.
We don’t run much with points anymore though, and have converted nearly everything to some type of electronic. Have ran at least one MSD box from points and did ok. If I am stuck with a points distributer we generally use a pertronix and keep a old set of points in the glove box in case it fails. Have used pertronix in antique tractors to 12 second 455s. The pertronix seem like they are can erratic if voltage is too high, and just like anything else electronic they need a good ground. I don’t miss wondering what rpm the points are going to act up though. |
#29
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Those plugs are pretty dark. I'd change them and the wires unless the wires are new. What heads, compression and plug heat range?
Edit: I see 670 heads. Those plugs are fouled. My 670s never blackened plugs like that with R45S. The Autolite 303s (fairly cold range) would get some color on a nitrous load, but not like that. I'd take a hard look at the ballast wire or ballast resistor setup and the coil selected. Some coils have an internal resistor and some are designed to be used with an external ballast resistor or resistor wire, and some coils are very low resistance for use with electronic CD ignition. I'd make sure it is all designed to work together. Gap the plugs to .035 to .040". Points inductive ignition has a lower peak plug voltage and longer duration than CD. In english, run a smaller gap with points. Once the ignition is sorted, go back to fuel. Verify the carb's calibration hasn't wandered off in the grass and fouled the plugs. It should run better once you change the plugs. I'm thinking the plugs fouled out, and changing carbs can't fix that after the fact.
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I could explain all this to the girl at the parts store, but she'd probably call the asylum. White '67 LeMans 407/TH350/Ford 3.89... RIP Red '67 LeMans. 407/TH400/Ford 3.25 Last edited by chiphead; 09-27-2021 at 01:26 PM. |
#30
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The weights and springs are not your problem, if they're faulty, it's on the guy who restored your distributor. I don't think there's anything wrong with them, as long as they provide a decent advance curve. Don't REPLACE the points, TEST the resistance through them. A simple ohmmeter would work. The points have to be CLOSED to test resistance, and the ignition should be off. And verify the dwell, THEN verify the ignition timing. (Not the other way around.) Quote:
How about TESTING the existing coil? An ohmmeter and a spark-tester is all that's needed; as this ignition system uses a ballast resistor in the primary circuit, you'd want a spark tester that is not calibrated for HEI ignitions. Check resistance between the two screw terminals, and between either of the screw terminals and the metal case. Check resistance of the coil-wire terminal and either one of the screw terminals, and between the coil wire terminal and the metal case. Example: (Ignore the crap about "exclusively for small engines", it's not. They're lying.) https://www.amazon.com/Stens-750-018...764548&sr=8-30 |
#31
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High quality points CAN be bought , if needed or wanted)
By specifying you want MARINE application I know Blue Streak has them. Try a Napa store. Marine electronics are made to a much higher reliability standard.
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
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#32
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Three times the sound peaks, falls back, peaks again. A throttling back to cruising speed, a dwindling grumble of thunder and...gone. The frogs take up where they left off. |
#33
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I don’t know how accurate this old Sears Engine Analyzer is, or even if I hooked it up right, but I attached the green alligator clip to the negative (-) side of the coil and the positive/negative clamps to the battery. I set the Range Selector and Function Selector to ‘Points’. When I switched on the ignition it showed the needle in the ‘Bad’ range for points:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Three times the sound peaks, falls back, peaks again. A throttling back to cruising speed, a dwindling grumble of thunder and...gone. The frogs take up where they left off. |
#34
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Here’s another possibility that I just recalled I had happen to a car of mine ages ago, and the car had symptoms just like yours.
I had a spare car at the time that I was starting to restore and it sat outside during a full Summer. When I started it up after those many months it did so just fine, but could not get out of its own way even on a level driveway due to ignition break down. After going thru a 2 day long troubleshooting session I found the root cause of the problem. I Mouse or Mice had partially eaten tru the wire feeding the coil that I had extended into the passenger area and had wired to a kill switch. The bottom line was that the 5 straind’s of wire that where left unchewed could not pass the current needed to run the motor much above a idle! This took a long while for me to find out since the wire was passing 12 volts as needed, but only some 30% of the current needed! Your issue may not be a chewed thru wire, but any crimp on wire connector not done tight enough can make for the same low current feed issue.
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#35
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If that analysis of the points on that meter is correct then that very high resistance could very well be the root cause of your issue!
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
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#36
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I would not expect the ignition to be turned on to get a reading on points resistance--but it COULD be wired that way. Looking at the meter face, the "Points" scale seems to be shared with the "Low Volts" scale, indicating that they're using voltage to measure points conductivity rather than resistance. If the points have high resistance, they provide a poor ground for the primary current/voltage, and the voltage is what the machine reads. The points would have to be closed. |
#37
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I took the rotor off again, Is there a better way to check the points?
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Three times the sound peaks, falls back, peaks again. A throttling back to cruising speed, a dwindling grumble of thunder and...gone. The frogs take up where they left off. |
#38
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Here are the instructions:
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Three times the sound peaks, falls back, peaks again. A throttling back to cruising speed, a dwindling grumble of thunder and...gone. The frogs take up where they left off. |
#39
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Just out of curiosity, have you pulled the valve covers to see if perhaps there is a broken valve spring? I had that happen once and it still ran, just had a miss.
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#40
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I haven’t, but will do that tomorrow. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Three times the sound peaks, falls back, peaks again. A throttling back to cruising speed, a dwindling grumble of thunder and...gone. The frogs take up where they left off. |
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