[JLMounce]

A -6 line in higher pressure EFI situations will support over 600 hp. -6 line should still be enough when using a carburetor for most people, but at the lower pressures you work with, the flow reduces a bit, so having that extra line will tend to help. Having the larger lines isn't going to hurt you, but you'll have to piece some things together.

You'll need 1/4 NPT to -8 fittings for the the fuel pump hat, different sized fuel filters and fittings etc. If you're doing -8 lines you really just have to purchase everything outside of kit form.

[Bill S]

Any recommended source / brand for the fuel lines and fittings ?
I am leaning towards the Tank Inc setup, but as recommended for this thread and other threads, going with -8 lines.

[78w72]

Best value for AN fittings is the summit brand, they are just as good as fragola in my experience but priced better. Im sure there are better brands but they cost a lot more. I like & use the black color fittings, look better than the old red/blue IMO.

For standard braided line the summit brand is also very good & priced better than others. Ive had mine in use for about 10 years with no signs of any problems. Some prefer the black nylon braided or push lock type hose/fittings but again those cost a lot more. For the average street car, standard lines & fittings work great.

If youve never used AN fittings, I can give some tips on the best way to cut the lines & install the fittings, you dont need special wrenches or expensive cutting tools... those tools are fine and if you do a lot of them the special tools are probably best, but if on a budget or only doing it 1 or 2 times, theres is a cheaper way that works great.

[Joe-Touring]

Here’s another good thread if you want some more info:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=863809

A lot of the same consensus, if you wanna do it once and have the fuel system ready for more power, just go in tank.

On the other hand, jhein, who started that thread, ended up with a RobbMC mech pump and that seemed to solve his fuel issues. He estimated that he’s around 500 horse.

I’m leaning towards that route myself, I guessing I’ll have ~450 horse when my 433 gets done. But I dig simplicity, mech fuel pump, qjet and points dizzy is my kinda setup.

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by Joe-Touring

Here’s another good thread if you want some more info:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=863809

A lot of the same consensus, if you wanna do it once and have the fuel system ready for more power, just go in tank.

On the other hand, jhein, who started that thread, ended up with a RobbMC mech pump and that seemed to solve his fuel issues. He estimated that he’s around 500 horse.

I’m leaning towards that route myself, I guessing I’ll have ~450 horse when my 433 gets done. But I dig simplicity, mech fuel pump, qjet and points dizzy is my kinda setup.

One thing that I think gets over-looked in the equation is traction. I don't think that most of us posting here are running it out to 120-130mph on the highway and we're probably not running at the local 1/8 or 1/4 mile dragstrip every weekend. We don't necessarily notice any fuel starvation issues as a result, until they get really bad.

So while more power does equal more fuel consumption, one of the big issues involved with supplying fuel is acceleration forces. The guy with 600hp, a RobbMC pump and a well tuned q-jet may be running around just fine with no apparent fueling issue, because when he hammers the throttle he turns power into smoke.

But for that guy there's also another guy with the same setup with a sorted suspension and sticky tires that when he hammers the throttle, the fuel system has to work against those forces.

This is of course not to say don't run a mechanical pump. I'm pointing out that having an idea of how your car is set up, how and when you drive it all matter.

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

One thing that I think gets over-looked in the equation is traction. The guy with 600hp, a RobbMC pump and a well tuned q-jet may be running around just fine with no apparent fueling issue, because when he hammers the throttle he turns power into smoke.

But for that guy there's also another guy with the same setup with a sorted suspension and sticky tires that when he hammers the throttle, the fuel system has to work against those forces.

That was me exactly. With the 550 Robb MC and a custom Q jet I never ever had problems on the street. At the track I couldn't get past 300 feet without it leaning out.

Upgraded to the 1000 HP pump and now if I had the tank slap full of gas I could sometimes get a full 1/8th on the slicks, but sometimes not.

Upgrades again to the in tank system and have zero problems anywhere.

I do feel like I have more fuel smell with the Tanks Inc tank. Ive been meaning to try and engineer a carbon canister for the vent. But that's my only complaint.

Speaking of "buy once cry once" if you are going to use soft AN lines for the whole car I would spend a little more and use PFTE lined hose and fittings.

[jhein]

Originally Posted by Joe-Touring

Here’s another good thread if you want some more info:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=863809

A lot of the same consensus, if you wanna do it once and have the fuel system ready for more power, just go in tank.

On the other hand, jhein, who started that thread, ended up with a RobbMC mech pump and that seemed to solve his fuel issues. He estimated that he’s around 500 horse.

I’m leaning towards that route myself, I guessing I’ll have ~450 horse when my 433 gets done. But I dig simplicity, mech fuel pump, qjet and points dizzy is my kinda setup.

Like I said (kind of) in the other thread mentioned above, If I had the current setup when I first got the motor back in the car, I don't think I would have recognized any "problem". For aggressive street driving my needs are met, easy. I would not be surprised at all if it made a difference racing. This year I'll have a full driving season with it for more observations and tuning (I haven't done any).

Now, we could debate about the simplicity of HEI vs points, but that's another story. LOL

[ta man]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

One thing that I think gets over-looked in the equation is traction. I don't think that most of us posting here are running it out to 120-130mph on the highway and we're probably not running at the local 1/8 or 1/4 mile dragstrip every weekend. We don't necessarily notice any fuel starvation issues as a result, until they get really bad.

So while more power does equal more fuel consumption, one of the big issues involved with supplying fuel is acceleration forces. The guy with 600hp, a RobbMC pump and a well tuned q-jet may be running around just fine with no apparent fueling issue, because when he hammers the throttle he turns power into smoke.

But for that guy there's also another guy with the same setup with a sorted suspension and sticky tires that when he hammers the throttle, the fuel system has to work against those forces.

This is of course not to say don't run a mechanical pump. I'm pointing out that having an idea of how your car is set up, how and when you drive it all matter.

I see this all the time at the dragstrip,guys will show up with really nice builds, big engines ,500 cubic inch plus..and you watch them run down the track and they fall on their face. A/F or fuel pressure should always be monitored under full traction. My car pulls enough G's to shoot the cigarette lighter out of the dash and into the back seat and flops over the passenger side floor mat, just think what the fuel is doing in the tank and the pressure against it in the fuel line.

[Don 79 TA]

i went with the Aeromotive system for my 79 with the built in pump.
nice setup indeed, has some growth potential as well, and even if i wanted to go full E85.
the top was a little challenge because i went with #8 fittings, so i had to dimple the floor pan for fit the connectors, but now i have a good return line
i went with Earls lines, i dont recall what its called but its nylon braided???? super flexible, good for any fuel, but NOT cheap, then again what is now...
i don't get any fuel smells like i did when i had braided lines.
i have the adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and could use it if i went with boost
so it has growth potential, fit in stock location and pump is inside the tank
the one con could be that its not really meant for drag racing, specially at lower fuel levels, at least thats in their directions
just thought i would pass it on, again, all in all a really nice setup, and good looking too, and i really love those Earls hoses/fittings. just get yourself the plug test kit so you can test your lines, or.... do it the hard way like i did and you'll find a leak if it didn't connect right

[Formulajones]

TA man is right, it's a common issue at the track all the time with street car guys.

I like simplicity too, probably more than most, but I also like my street cars to perform like they should, not just look pretty. That usually means a mechanical pump won't cut the mustard. I mentioned earlier mechanical pumps are poor suckers and they have to pull that fuel from the back of the car for 20 feet through twists and turns. That's already marginal. Like TA mentioned you throw in drag strip passes on a good track and then you start to see issues you never thought you had before.

What I've also seen with my own cars, and Cliff has mentioned this before. Even if you don't think you see or feel any issue at the track with a mechanical pump and small fuel lines, the cars still typically will find more MPH and better ET with an upgraded fuel system anyway. The sheer volume supplied with bigger lines and a better in tank electric pump that is good at pushing the fuel forward in many cases yield better performance at the track you didn't think was there. I've seen this happen a few times with my own cars.

[OCMDGTO]

Originally Posted by Don 79 TA

. just get yourself the plug test kit so you can test your lines, or.... do it the hard way like i did and you'll find a leak if it didn't connect right

Just turn the pump on, you'll find out REAL quick if you have a leak

[Formulajones]

78W72 brought up hose with some good points, here's some more suggestions. I use this hose and just order 50 feet at a time.

https://www.anhosefittings.com/light...l-and-oil.html


I've been using this stuff for a couple decades and haven't had a single issue with it. It's been in service on dad's car for close to 20 years now, and at least 15 on my own car with no signs of problems to date. I like the style of fittings it's designed for as I can take them on and off and reuse them. It's suitable for all kinds of fluids as you can read in the description including E85, Methanol, and is NHRA approved which is a biggy for me as they do tend to check that stuff in tech.

The only draw back now is that I used to buy it for $4 a foot and it's now $8 a foot The fittings also can add up, I usually end up spending $200 or more just on fittings.

[Bill S]

Originally Posted by 78w72

Best value for AN fittings is the summit brand, they are just as good as fragola in my experience but priced better. Im sure there are better brands but they cost a lot more. I like & use the black color fittings, look better than the old red/blue IMO.

For standard braided line the summit brand is also very good & priced better than others. Ive had mine in use for about 10 years with no signs of any problems. Some prefer the black nylon braided or push lock type hose/fittings but again those cost a lot more. For the average street car, standard lines & fittings work great.

If youve never used AN fittings, I can give some tips on the best way to cut the lines & install the fittings, you dont need special wrenches or expensive cutting tools... those tools are fine and if you do a lot of them the special tools are probably best, but if on a budget or only doing it 1 or 2 times, theres is a cheaper way that works great.

Definitely in for any tips cutting the PTFE lines and connecting the fittings.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by Bill S

Definitely in for any tips cutting the PTFE lines and connecting the fittings.

PM replied to.

The vid at summit for the fittings you sent is basically how I do it, except I use a die grinder with a small 4" cut off wheel to cut the lines and I havent used the PTFE line yet that requires the small compression nut, but the process is the same.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-250890b

[HWYSTR455]

I say always build a 'system' to support just about anything you plan or even aren't planning to throw at it. That way no matter how many times you change your config you always have enough, never have to worry.

Since carbs are at lower psi, a bypass regulator as close to the carb is common/best practice.

EFI due to psi has much less of a chance of vapor lock.

If you plan on running a high psi pump with a carb, the return line needs to be enough to handle the fuel being bypassed to maintain the lower/desired psi. Sometimes, that means even running a larger line than the feed. EDIT: Always run the same return size as the feed.

I also believe in running as much hard line as possible, for many reasons, but cost is a biggie. The more hard line you run, the less 'soft' lines and fittings you need.

When it comes to AN fittings and line, I've tried just about all of them, but will say, you get what you pay for. These days, I only use Russell and Earl's. There's some specialty fittings that may not be made by those 2, but it is what it is, and can work around that fairly easily.

As for AN hose, they vary in thickness, and it is strongly advised to use fittings from the same manufacturer as the hose.

For 'soft' hose, the PVC pipe cutters work pretty darn good. I've tried some of the AN fitting company's cutters, but always seem to go back to the PVC ones. Obviously, that won't work for stainless covered hose, but not many use that anymore anyway.



.

[HWYSTR455]

Another thread on fuel system installs:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=749614

.

[Bill S]

I am thinking of mounting the regulator at the end of the passenger side cylinder head. Would, put it in front of the carb and close in height.
Any concerns with that location ? (Not my actual engine bay pictured !)

[HWYSTR455]

Well, if you put it on the inner fender well, you can run hard lines to it, then 1 soft line from it to the carb.

If you put the regulator on the head, you have to run 2 lines, feed & return.

There's a hole in the frame just before the firewall and past the crossmember too I believe, you could run the lines through it, and even mount it on the frame rail ahead of the upper control arm. That would pass track tech being in the frame rail as it passes the bell housing area.

When you run lines the length of the car, when you fasten them you need to allow some type of movement of the line in the fastener. You can use padded adel clamps as long as you use 1 size larger, so the lines can move as the body twists.

If you have a unibody car, just remember you need to transition from one moving platform to the other using soft lines, like from the body to the frame, just like the factory did. That prevents hard line from 'work hardening' and failing.

Use the factory configuration as a starting point and design from that.


.

[HWYSTR455]

Ok, robbed this pic from another thread:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=683388

Looks like the line runs on top of the frame rail. You could just carry it further up the frame rail past and close to the control arm.


.

[Lee]

I did an EFI system on a '68 Firebird last year, TanksInc tank.

I bought TWO 3/8" fuel lines from SS Tubes. I was able to mount them parallel to each other. I used 3/8"T to -6 compression fittings on each end to make the connections.