[roger1]

What a hassle.
I have the Comps on mine and so far they seem OK. They were NIB and came with the car when I bought it. I used them but was leery and still am. I don't know if the machine shop I had assemble the engine enlarged the holes or not.
Sometimes I wonder if the benefit over stock is really worth a risk. I've read that the benefits are very, very small.

[Bruce Meyer]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Is it actually the hole closer or is it because the slot/fulcrum area is larger? Curious.

I know many have had issues with the roller-tip only rockers, be it PRW or Comp, maybe it's inherent?

Were the pushrod holes enlarged? Generally, I advise to enlarge the holes when the heads are off as SOP, to avoid problems like these, regardless of cam/rockers used. But it is what it is at this point.

Glad you figured it out and know how frustrating things like this can be.

The pushrod holes were not enlarged. Ive never had problems with 1.5 rockers and the stock size holes and that's with some big cams Ive messed with in the past. Im thinking the ones I have are 1.65 and were mislabeled. Its hard to tell from the pics but the pushrod cup is much closer to the rocker stud than the stock rocker arms.

[HWYSTR455]

Is there a witness mark in the hole? I wonder if it's actually hitting the body/fulcrum area and not the hole? Maybe the pushrod is too long for the PRW rockers?

I'm just trying to understand where the problem is, I've not heard of it before specifically with PRW rockers. Not saying it isn't, just don't want a bad rap on a product and cause people to abandon a potential brand/product if not warranted.

So the general rule of thumb is once you go over .469 lift, or switch to 1.65s, it's possible to have contact in the hole. Both having roughly the same effect.

A lot of early aftermarket offerings for Pontiac cams all kept lift below .469 or added notes to verify hole & retainer clearances.

And yeah, can't tell by the pic, which is why I am asking. I'm sure you looked hard at it and bet it's obvious in person. Just never heard this with PRW rockers.


.

[Bruce Meyer]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Is there a witness mark in the hole? I wonder if it's actually hitting the body/fulcrum area and not the hole? Maybe the pushrod is too long for the PRW rockers?

I'm just trying to understand where the problem is, I've not heard of it before specifically with PRW rockers. Not saying it isn't, just don't want a bad rap on a product and cause people to abandon a potential brand/product if not warranted.

So the general rule of thumb is once you go over .469 lift, or switch to 1.65s, it's possible to have contact in the hole. Both having roughly the same effect.

A lot of early aftermarket offerings for Pontiac cams all kept lift below .469 or added notes to verify hole & retainer clearances.

And yeah, can't tell by the pic, which is why I am asking. I'm sure you looked hard at it and bet it's obvious in person. Just never heard this with PRW rockers.


.

Im using a Summit 2802 cam. Only the intakes were hitting and the lift is only .466 on the intake side. Also there was a very slight witness mark on the pushrod. I didn't run it long like that. The stock rockers moved the pushrod way away from any contact with the hole.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Bruce Meyer

Im using a Summit 2802 cam. Only the intakes were hitting and the lift is only .466 on the intake side. Also there was a very slight witness mark on the pushrod. I didn't run it long like that. The stock rockers moved the pushrod way away from any contact with the hole.

.466 is very close to the .469 mark, and a pushrod length diff could have made the difference. (rocker causing pushrod length discrepancy) .

Even with the stamped rockers, in certain circumstances you may still have inference.


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[Bruce Meyer]

More fun. The blower motor wont come on. Checked the feed to the master switch (brown wire) and there is no power going to it. Checked the fuse box and I got power to both sides of the fuse. I took apart the fuse box and did a continuity test on the feed wire and it shows an open. This is a brand new harness from Ames made by M&H. Im debating running a bypass wire to the master switch or getting another new harness. What do you guys think? The harness was bought over a year ago so Im sure the warranty is no longer good.

[roger1]

Me, I would find where the open is and the reason for it and fix it there. I have a Power Probe II which makes it easier to trace stuff like this. If I couldn't find it with that, I'd purchase the Power Probe ECT3000 circuit tester. That is tool I've wanted for a very long time anyway.

[Bruce Meyer]

Well I got most of it fixed. Apparently there are 2 schematics for the 70. I was looking at the wrong one of course. One showed a direct feed to the master switch and the other showed it going to a connector. Mine was the one going to a connector and it wasn't hooked up. Problem solved. Now I have to figure out why the high speed on the fan doesn't work. Ive got the 12 volt feed line from the alternator hooked up and the fuse is in place.