[David Jones]

A couple of side by side shots of the old and new.........

[David Jones]

Originally Posted by cdrookie

yes, the bellhousing can be mounted to the tranny then mounted to the motor, thats the only way i install them.

put the line on the slave cylinder then through the window in the bellhousing. bleeding it is simple as can be and only takes a few minutes, nothing to worry about there.

Good to know.
Keisler's video's show them feeding the bench bled hyd's through the bellhousing and when they finish the video they leave you with the slave cylinder hanging in the transmission end of the mounted bellhousing, unattached to anything. My question is HOW at that point would you attach it to the transmission since the bolts would then have to be started from INSIDE the bellhousing...which is mounted to their block.

[cdrookie]

not sure why they'd show it like that? becareful screwing the line into the slave cylinder, real easy to cross thread it!

[David Jones]

Question...........

I'm nearly to the point of checking the alignment of the bellhousing to the crankshaft. Never having done this before I'm going by what I've read. Is it OK to check it right off the end of the crank or do I have to install the flywheel 1st? Most everything I read mentions taking a couple of bolts out of the flywheel so the base of the magnet sits flat.

[David Jones]

found the answer...........crank is fine.

[David Jones]

Another question.........

I have the clutch pictured. The picture shows both sides of the clutch disc. Which side faces what? The disc has no labeling and since your supposed to know what you're doing, no instructions.

[Skip Fix]

Pretty sure the spring side goes into the pressure plate. Buddy install one for me in my old Impala the other way and they rubbed on the flywheel bolts.

[Captainofiron]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

Pretty sure the spring side goes into the pressure plate. Buddy install one for me in my old Impala the other way and they rubbed on the flywheel bolts.

this

the flywheel side should be pretty close to flat

[lust4speed]

Originally Posted by David Jones

found the answer...........crank is fine.

If you are using a magnetic base for the dial indicator, you might have a problem of trying to get a sufficient grip for the magnet on the end of the crank. We even had a slight problem with the flywheel on and getting the base where it wouldn't move as we turned the crank. I was thinking that a simple L bracket welded to a rod with a hole through it for the dial indicator might be a good solution. You cold bolt the bracket to the crank using one of the flywheel bolt holes. Then you would just drill and tap the rod for the set screw to hold the indicator in place. Either that, or bolt a flat plate across the end of the crank so the dial indicator would have a nice flat surface to mount on.

[MrWrestlingII]

Here's a picture of my dual friction disk mounted to the flywheel...

[David Jones]

Much appreciated, all of you. Thanks for the pic MrWrestlingII. I think I've got it now.

I got my OEM eBay pedals in today. I hope to get some paint on them tomorrow after work. The bushings feel great so I think paint is all they need, and the new rubber that came with the Keisler pedals. Performance Years has new chrome pedal surrounds headed to me also.

[tom s]

David,if that is a plastic spline,try to borrow a input shaft from a trans.WAY more accurate.Tom

[GOAT WHORE]

I thought that motor was staying in the car? This one must be for another car?

[Captainofiron]

Originally Posted by tom s

David,if that is a plastic spline,try to borrow a input shaft from a trans.WAY more accurate.Tom

this.

on the newer transmissions its pretty easy to pop out, like on the T56 its just a matter of taking some bolts out

[pontiacmark]

I am interested in how this turns out. I have a pre-production RS600 in my GTO for about a year. No cutting compared to the TKO and smoother. It is a little balky going into reverse but that was common to the Borg-Warner T5 it's based on. I knew Shafi had many delays from component suppliers on the RS parts but I didn't know the wait was still that long. From what I remember about the TKO, you will need to change to the manual trans tunnel as noted but you may not have to modify much from there if your body bushings are good enough to provide clearance.

Good luck with the install and IM me if you need more support from Keisler.

[David Jones]

Originally Posted by GOAT WHORE

I thought that motor was staying in the car? This one must be for another car?

My motor is in the car. I just posted MrWrestlingII's picture, full size. Easier to see.

[David Jones]

Thank you Mark.
I plan on being as gentle with the cut-off wheel/jig saw as I can. The plan is to lift the trans into the tunnel as close as possible and then I'll mark where I need to cut versus just whacking the trans tunnel wide open and then covering it back up. My cut may indeed end up being huge, I'm OK with that. But. I have some ideas..........
My body bushings are basically brand new. I replaced them about 6-8 years ago but the car has only seen 10-15,000 miles since then and hasn't spent the night outside.

[David Jones]

Latest progress is the used OEM pedals I bought arrived and I took them apart, cleaned, painted, chased bolts threads and lubed them.
I also discovered that the passenger side block dowel pin was in way to far. The block plate would sit on it but there was nothing for the bell to sit on. I've posted a thread looking for idea on that dowels removal. It will move some with vice grips attached.

[Mr_GTO]

Nice. Did you paint or plate the bracket?

[David Jones]

Rust dictated that I paint it. Rustoleum silver metallic. I really hated to do that since the originals were not painted. I was amazed at how nice the bushings/pivots were considering how worn the pedals and pedal surrounds were. Can't wait to try to work all that metal back up under the dash.