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#101
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They are some what of a pain seeing the bumper is mounted to brackets off the frame and the body is on the mounts. You do have quite a bit of movement with the bumper so that helps. From the pics you can see I had to use finishing putty on the fenders and flexible plastic repair filler to get the low spots to match up and get the body lines consistent. It is just tedious work that take some time to get right but will stand out when it is all done.
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#102
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Well an update on my project. I finally got the bodywork somewhat straight enough to seal the whole exterior. Car finally is starting to look like I have accomplished something LOL. More pic to come.
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#103
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Well after applying the sealer yesterday, today I put 3 coats of primer on. Tomorrow I should be able to guide coat the entire car and start with the first blocking. Hands don't fail me now.
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#104
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Hey all was wondering what intake manifold I should consider going with. I see Edelbrock and Torker have some. I am using the stock heads so any input would be appreciated.
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#105
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It amazes me how much you get done. You can see it coming together with the sealer.
Hard to beat the stock intake, performance wise. The Edelbrock just has a weight advantage and the one I had, we had to fabricate a little plate to get the choke spring to work. |
#106
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Thank you I am having fun with this project but can't wait to get her on the road. This nice weather we are having in Michigan and seeing all the hot rods starting to come out its giving me the itch. Well from the last time I posted I have primed and blocked the car three times. I now took the bumper, hood, fenders, doors and decklid back off so I could get the body off the frame. With the body back on the rotisserie I started today prepping the interior floor, underside of roof and trunk floor so I can apply the Lizard Skin sound deadner and ceramic heat barrier. The pics show the first of two coats of the sound deadner.
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#107
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Well I put on the second coat yesterday and now I am about ready to start spraying the ceramic barrier. Took a few pictures of what the sound barrier looks like. I do have one question what has people done to the decklid to stiffen them up so they aren't so tinny? I was thinking of applying those 3m self adhesive sound deadning pads to the underside of it. Any thoughts would be helpful.
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#108
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Well I finished with putting on the sound control and ceramic heat barrier Friday and un-taped it today. I took a few pictures of what the finished product looked like. I was very please with how well the Lizardskin application went, it sprayed nice, covered extremely well and cleanup was easy with just using water.
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#109
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I am currently cleaning out the heater box on my car and want to replace the evaporator core while I have it all apart. Those that have done it where have you found a replacment evaporator core. I know that PY has them but states it is different but will work.
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#110
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Got some color on part of the dash and firewall today. Went with a satin black. Tomorrow I plan on getting color on the bottom side of body.
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#111
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Check local radiator shops. They can order the correct replacement and get it in a day or so. Might save you some bucks. They are still avaiable. Might even check Napa, Advance, Autozone.
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#112
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Thanks that is what I did got one from OReileys and was pretty cheap. Got color on the bottom of the shell today. Currently in the bake cycle then I will take some pics and post them.
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#113
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Well I got the bottom of the body painted today. Seeing color on the car is getting me excited and more motivated to get this project done.
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#114
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Sorry forgot the pictures.
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#115
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Just stumbled on this thread. Your doing a great job, can't wait to see that paint on the outside.
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#116
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Thanks I appreciate the kind words. It has been a fun project so far but I want to get it done and enjoy her. Its going on two years since I last drove her.
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#117
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Hello all hopefully someone can help me. I am currently restoring my 1969 GTO and put a s60 rear axle assy in it from Strange Engineering. It was a direct fit in and I planned on using the stock springs and bought new 10" shocks for it. Also I put in new spring insulators upper and lower that were not on my old 10 bolt rear end. When I got everything bolted up I noticed the shock are about 1-1/4" to short from bolting to the frame. I did notice the stance seems to be taller in the rear and I am thinking that the spring perches on the s60 rear end might be in the wrong location with the combination of me adding the spring insulators. To fix the problem I am thinking of getting new springs that are shorter and that will help with the stance of the rear of the car. Does any one have a height measurement of the frame height I can ref mine to and if anyone knows where I can get shorter springs at I would appreciate it. Any other ideas will be helpful as well.
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#118
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Just a thought, as you add more weight (rear bumper, interior, glass etc.) maybe it will look better.
Project looks awsome JOE |
#119
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I did have the body on and it did not budge the rear suspension. I think I was over extending the shocks causing it to bind up. When I disconnected the shocks it seem to help out so I am thinking I need springs that are shorter or longer shocks but prefer to find shorter springs.
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#120
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I don't know if you want to cut new springs but that's what was suggested to me for a car that I have that sits too high. You cut about 3/4 of the first coil off, then heat a spot about half a coil further in til it's red. Finally, quickly press it down on the concrete to flatten it for the perch.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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