[fyrffytr1]

Well, I checked out the parts car yesterday. It wasn't even a 67. More like a 68 - 72. Oh well, the search goes on.
I spent 8 hrs last week cleaning and painting parts for the motor. I also got the steering box cleaned and painted.
Labor is now 153 hrs = $3,060
parts still at $4,103.87
Total $7,163.87
I am going to order some more parts this week and start to put the front end of the frame back together.
Here are a few pics of the parts car.

[fyrffytr1]

Well, I did a little more his week. Ordered $697.45 worth of parts from our host. Also bought a set of correct motor mounts from Autozone for $45.86.
The parts I got from PY were new brake lines, fuel lines, power steering hose, KYB shocks,brake and fuel line clips and a new proportioning valve.
Hopefully, my front control arm bushings will be here by mid week. I bought them in February but was sent the wrong stuff. It has taken this long to get it straight. This deal was through a third party and he called Friday to say the correct parts were on the way, finally.
So, I spent four more hours cleaning bolts and such. Also installed the steering box.
Labor is now 157 hours = $3,140
Parts are now at $4,847.18
Total $7,987.18

[fyrffytr1]

Hallelujah! I got my front control arm bushings today! I have been waiting on them for 3 months. And I have a three day weekend coming up. And , the wife is going to visit her mother!
Is God smiling on me or what?

[fyrffytr1]

I got the front A-arms, springs and new disc brakes installed. Also painted the transmission.
I hope to get the new brake and fuel lines this week. i haven't installed the front shocks because I want to paint them to resemble stock first.

Labor is now 165 hours= $3,300
Parts = $4,847.18
Total = $8,147.18

[goatmanmitch]

Lookin good. I also like the running total, not something most would be able to see. Keep up the good work (and momentum)!

[Blue '66]

Very nice!I have a question.How/what did you install the front springs without the motor/body weight on the frame.I have tried a couple different coil spring tools,but they are very difficult to make work well.I use a chain and floor jack to remove/install the springs but you need weight.

Thanks for the updates.

[fyrffytr1]

Originally Posted by Blue '66

Very nice!I have a question.How/what did you install the front springs without the motor/body weight on the frame.I have tried a couple different coil spring tools,but they are very difficult to make work well.I use a chain and floor jack to remove/install the springs but you need weight.

Thanks for the updates.

I ran a 5/8" rod down through the top shock mounting hole, put two washers on top and a nut. On the bottom I used a heavy plate I bought at Tractor Supply. I think it is a leaf spring mounting plate. I placed it in the coil spring about three colis fom the bottom and ran the rod through it. I put two nuts on the bottom and locked them together.
I used a box end wrench to twist the top nut. I also used a floor jack under the bottom control arm. I also sat on the frame as I tightened the spring.
It may not be the best way but, I was able to do it without help. So far. I have only had help removing the trunk lid.

[6t7gto]

I used this procedure...
http://216.178.81.108/forums/showthr...spring+install

david

[Blue '66]

Thanks guys!I am not at the assembly point yet but it seemed like a good time to ask.

[GTOGreg]

I used that procedure on the spring installation and it worked like a charm. In fact that is the only way I do it now.

Your doing great fyrrffytr. One suggestion for you is to maybe wrap parts of the frame in that saran wrap like stuff (or just use a thin sheet if you have an old one) when it comes time to put your brake lines on. I didn't and as a result I have some tiny scratches on my painted frame. In fact, when you assemble anything, thing about protecting it with painters tape, or that wrap stuff. I found a big roll of the wrap at one of the office supply stores (Office Depot or Staples)

[Blue '66]

How expensive is the big rolls of the wrap Greg?When we moved here from Tx I used some pieces of bubble wrap sheets to protect some of my parts.

[fyrffytr1]

Greg,
Thanks for the tip. Even though my frame is powder coated I have already nicked it in a few places.

[GTOGreg]

Originally Posted by Blue '66

How expensive is the big rolls of the wrap Greg?When we moved here from Tx I used some pieces of bubble wrap sheets to protect some of my parts.

Think I paid $15-$18 for a roll that will take me a LONG time to get through. I used bubble wrap too when installing my steering column - that works best on the heavier parts that could break through the saran wrap type stuff.

[1970gpsj4speed]

HERES ANOTHER TIP BUY A ROLL OF 3M MASK WRAP .I SHRUNK WRAPED THE ENGINE AND SANDWITCHED IT BETWEEN BODY AND FRAME

[fyrffytr1]

What have I done to the car this week. Let's see, I took the lower A-arms off and reinstalled the ball joints. Only this time I did it right. I removed the powder coating so the joints would seat properly in the arms.
Next I installed the brake and fuel lines. I will have to remove the front to rear brake line in order to cut it and put in a proportioning valve. I hope to get the drive train back in next weekend.
I also wire wheeled some more nuts and bolts I plan on reusing.
10 hours brings the labor total to 175 hours.
Labor = $3,500
Parts = $4,847.18

Total= $8,347.18

[fyrffytr1]

Ok, I have tried several times to get the converter seated in the tranny with no luck. No matter what I do the converter will not go in far enough to give me clearance at the flex plate when I bolt the tranny to the block. I have to leave the tranny backed off about 1/4" to get the converter to rotate. When I tighten the tranny down anymore it binds the converter.  I ordered $336.75 worth of parts from our host. Got new transmission cooling lines, Idler arm, center link, inner tie rod ends and rear axle bumpers.
I put about 7 hours labor in this week.
Labor is now182 hours = $3,640.00
Parts= $5,183.93
Total= $8,823.93

[pontiac poncho]

On the converter, it should feel 3 clicks when it goes in. Get the converter in both hands and wiggle it up and down on the input shaft of the transmission. You will also at the same time, turn the converter. You will feel it slip in, kinda like tumblers. The last click is for the pump. You'll notice two openings on the converter flange. That has to go on the pump gear. If you try and tighten this up and it's not correctly installed on the pump, you could damage it. When it's in right, you will have about a 3/8 gap between the flywheel and the converter and the bolts will pull it up in place. It sounds like alot, but when it's on you will not feel any play when you try and move the converter.

[fyrffytr1]

Wow, Poncho that's just what the mechanic at the transmission shop told me when I took my tranny back to him. I broke the lugs off the pump gears when I tightened the tranny down the first time I tried to install it. At least I didn't do any damage to the converter.
In my defense, I was trying to bolt the tranny to the motor while it was hanging from an engine hoist and the tranny was on a creeper.
Anyway, when I got to the shop the owner said he remembered me but couldn't think of my name. I told him Dumbass with a capital D.
To anyone out there considering doing a frame off, I hope you will learn from my mistakes.

[pontiac poncho]

You probably wouldn't believe it if I told you, but I'm now doing the second frame off on the same car! I did a frame off on my 67 Post car when I was 17 years old. Back then I was young, dumb and shure as hell didn't know how to weld. What started as a freshen up, ended up with changing out the frame, new floor pans , trunk pans, the whole nine yards. I plan on posting my frame off on PY sometime this week. Keep going though your post have pushed me to get my car done as well!

[fyrffytr1]

I went by the shop today and picked up my tranny. They didn't charge me to fix it. Even showed me how to seat the converter.
Got it home, put the converter in, sat the tranny on my floor jack and it rolled right up to the block. Bolted it up and to the motor and then bolted the converter to the flexplate. It took all of ten minutes.