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  #101  
Old 04-03-2016, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by dataway View Post
So .... 068 or 067 ??

Just kidding, now I'm afraid to put any cam in my engine

Just for the record ... I've got good info from everyone concerned. I love you all.

I enjoy seeing good info from sources both tried and true, and those willing to rock the boat. ALL of you know a lot more than me.

I hate to see "topic drift" end up causing problems.
Is there a reason you don't want to alter the chamber size or pistons to bring it down to a manageable compression ratio?

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  #102  
Old 04-03-2016, 10:15 AM
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Wow

  #103  
Old 04-03-2016, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by grivera View Post
Is there a reason you don't want to alter the chamber size or pistons to bring it down to a manageable compression ratio?
Does he need to? He's down to 9.9 according to his original post.

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  #104  
Old 04-03-2016, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by grivera View Post
Is there a reason you don't want to alter the chamber size or pistons to bring it down to a manageable compression ratio?
I thought I was at a manageable compression ratio.

Pistons have been dished to 11.2cc, after a valve job and replacing the flat face OEM style valves ... probably looking at 9.7 - 9.8 (yes 9.9 as mesured right now) And since it's not a daily driver I have no problem running some race fuel.

Right now pretty settled on an 068 grind ... not positive yet whose I should use ... Melling? Anyone else?

  #105  
Old 04-03-2016, 11:30 AM
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Of course he doesn't need to but 9.0-9.5 is easier to manage and will minimize risk of issues with crappy fuel. My point was since it's still apart, why not make it simpler.

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‘66 Lemans, 455, KRE D-Ports, TH350, 12 bolt 3.90 gears
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  #106  
Old 04-03-2016, 11:32 AM
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My agenda is stating the obvious?
No , your agenda is trying to prove your balls are bigger than others that are more established on this particular site than you. No one cares!!! I'm sure you have much more to contribute than myself but PARTICIPATE, don't try to be the hog with the big nuts. Makes you look like a troll.
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  #107  
Old 04-03-2016, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by grivera View Post
Of course he doesn't need to but 9.0-9.5 is easier to manage and will minimize risk of issues with crappy fuel. My point was since it's still apart, why not make it simpler.
At this point my options would be limited to increasing chamber size a bit to reduce compression. Not something I'm comfortable with really.

To be honest I'll probably be practically hand mixing the fuel that I use in this car .... ethanol free premium and race fuel, for a quick jaunt to the drive in, or burger joint. If it was a daily driver I'd for sure be wanting to keep compression a bit lower. Although ... numerous guys here seem to do pretty good with daily driver 10:1 iron head engines on pump gas.

  #108  
Old 04-03-2016, 12:28 PM
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Looks like you have a plan so please don't take my comments the wrong way. I'm sure you already know that timing curve and very precise control of carb are a must at that level. For every person getting by with the high compression and iron heads, there are numerous others who have had issues.

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'69 Firebird 400/461, 290+ E D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears
‘66 Lemans, 455, KRE D-Ports, TH350, 12 bolt 3.90 gears
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  #109  
Old 04-03-2016, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
I thought I was at a manageable compression ratio.

Pistons have been dished to 11.2cc, after a valve job and replacing the flat face OEM style valves ... probably looking at 9.7 - 9.8 (yes 9.9 as mesured right now) And since it's not a daily driver I have no problem running some race fuel.

Right now pretty settled on an 068 grind ... not positive yet whose I should use ... Melling? Anyone else?
I'd use the Melling version, they were the OEM supplier to Pontiac.

I've used the Crane Blueprint version in the past as well as whatever version was being sold by Warrior Racing back in the day and they all worked fine.

I have a couple of NOS 068 cams that I was able to dig up, one is in my 421 and the other is waiting for a future build. I probably paid a bit too much for them, but I wanted the 'real thing' and was hedging my bet that they were made from good materials that were sourced in the past before that became a camshaft quality question.

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  #110  
Old 04-03-2016, 04:22 PM
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Melling it is then, and probably CC 951R lifters ...which are probably made by Johnson Hy-Lift. I'll post a complete list of the parts I plan to use, for general comments.

Grivera ... at present I'm leaning towards one of the throttle body EFI kits available instead of a carb and a recurved stock distributor with something like a Uni-Lite installed. Nothing fancy. I figure if I mix up something around 98 octane it should be ok. Drove the same engine 30 years ago at 10.75:1 on the cheapest gas I could find, seemed to survive it reasonably well .... well, nothing blew up anyway

I'll probably never drive the car a thousand miles total for the rest of the time I own it.

  #111  
Old 04-03-2016, 04:53 PM
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No the Comp Cams lifters are NOT made by Hylift/Johnson. I do not like the Comps or the Lunatis, and any lifter made by Delphi. The metering system sucks, and they don't oil the rockers good at all. Some cases, they don't oil at all. No cam companies have Hylift/Johnson make their lifters because they can buy them from Delphi much cheaper because they are made in Mexico.

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  #112  
Old 04-03-2016, 04:56 PM
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You need to buy Hylift/Johnson lifters directly from Hylift/Johnson, or an authorized dealer for them. Do not trust E-bay Hylift/Johnsons because the guy at Hylift/Johnson that we deal with says that there are counterfeit lifters being made in Mexico that come in a box that almost duplicates Hylift/Johnsons box. Buyer beware.

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  #113  
Old 04-03-2016, 05:20 PM
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+2 and very well said. We will NOT use Comp or Lunati either. It is rumored that Lunati has been quoted as saying that they "re-machine" the offshore lifters in house, and if you don't use their lifters, they will not Warranty their cams. Not sure how much faith I'd put in all that, as sub-standard materials and poor internal clearances still produce less than satisfactory results.

If you are using a flat cam, insist on good lifters, they cam woln't "scrub" a lobe early in it's life and you'll sleep better at night.......Cliff

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  #114  
Old 04-03-2016, 06:04 PM
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Wow! This really deteriorated after Pg. 3.
B-man: Thanks for the kind words. I always had a good "counseling" session with a cam buyer to get the right fit of performance characteristics to the customers own psyche.
I had performance feedback from many (over 50,000 on the mailing list) customers. We're gonna hafta put that Mac 10 in the cam checker one of these days!

Cam advance: sometimes it helps, sometimes it doesn't ! Just note that the 068, installed "straight up" , "on the dots" is 6 deg. advanced.
Aftermarket repro cam. It may have (and check good ) the same Dur. , lift, and lobe sep. as stock but have a completely different(inferior) lobe profile. I posted pix of a RA3 orig. and an aftermarket cam a while back, and they looked completely different. The fact. RA3 had 30 deg. of dwell over the nose and the other had 2deg of dwell.

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  #115  
Old 04-03-2016, 06:22 PM
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"...I'll probably be practically hand mixing the fuel that I use in this car .... ethanol free premium and race fuel..."


I'd like to hear some reviews, by somebody who has used this octane booster. I just ran across it. I know that most of the boosters on the market, are not worth buying. But the description of this booster says it can actually raise the octane rating of pump gas, to well above 100 octane.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Race-Gas/814/1...ductId=3410293

http://race-gas.com/

Is this just advertising bull ? Or does it really work ? Are there any other good boosters out there ?

What about Torco ?

http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/un_acce.html

http://www.amazon.com/Torco-Accelera.../dp/B004ZO3VN0

I paid $11 a gal for some race gas to mix in with pump gas, for my last bracket car. Even if the cost is the same, it would be a lot more convenient to use some booster, out of a small can. IMO

  #116  
Old 04-03-2016, 06:56 PM
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Default camshaft

Realization of how you want the car to behave is the key factor in motor setup.
Luckily when I bought my car it was setup as I thought I would love it. Thumper cam
on a 110LSA, thirsty street avenger, edelbrock SP2P intake, Mallory everywhere and the rustiest hood pins ever. Went thru plugs every other month.

Had the fun of playing with that before tear down of body. Upon motor rebuild time went
with Melling 068 with crower cool face lifters, factory iron intake, Properly setup Q-jet, and DUI HEI. Overall a great smooth running cruiser. Exactly as I want. It all has to work together and accomplish what you want. Hey I still have same plugs in for 5 seasons!!!!

The factory did get a few things right.

Gerry

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  #117  
Old 04-03-2016, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KEN CROCIE View Post
Wow! This really deteriorated after Pg. 3.
B-man: Thanks for the kind words. I always had a good "counseling" session with a cam buyer to get the right fit of performance characteristics to the customers own psyche.
I had performance feedback from many (over 50,000 on the mailing list) customers. We're gonna hafta put that Mac 10 in the cam checker one of these days!

Cam advance: sometimes it helps, sometimes it doesn't ! Just note that the 068, installed "straight up" , "on the dots" is 6 deg. advanced.
Aftermarket repro cam. It may have (and check good ) the same Dur. , lift, and lobe sep. as stock but have a completely different(inferior) lobe profile. I posted pix of a RA3 orig. and an aftermarket cam a while back, and they looked completely different. The fact. RA3 had 30 deg. of dwell over the nose and the other had 2deg of dwell.
Props are more than well-deserved for your work in the Pontiac performance industry, which was pretty much created by H-O Racing in the first place.

I'll gather up my NOS McKellar #10 cam and maybe even drag a couple of other NOS factory cams along, and try to make it down to your shop along with Mick and we'll make a day of it.

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  #118  
Old 04-03-2016, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KEN CROCIE View Post
Wow! This really deteriorated after Pg. 3.
B-man: Thanks for the kind words. I always had a good "counseling" session with a cam buyer to get the right fit of performance characteristics to the customers own psyche.
I had performance feedback from many (over 50,000 on the mailing list) customers. We're gonna hafta put that Mac 10 in the cam checker one of these days!

Cam advance: sometimes it helps, sometimes it doesn't ! Just note that the 068, installed "straight up" , "on the dots" is 6 deg. advanced.
Aftermarket repro cam. It may have (and check good ) the same Dur. , lift, and lobe sep. as stock but have a completely different(inferior) lobe profile. I posted pix of a RA3 orig. and an aftermarket cam a while back, and they looked completely different. The fact. RA3 had 30 deg. of dwell over the nose and the other had 2deg of dwell.
Ken,
Have you checked any other 068's? Like maybe The Crane or Lunati blueprint grinds?
Thanks!

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  #119  
Old 04-03-2016, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtofreek View Post
You need to buy Hylift/Johnson lifters directly from Hylift/Johnson, or an authorized dealer for them. Do not trust E-bay Hylift/Johnsons because the guy at Hylift/Johnson that we deal with says that there are counterfeit lifters being made in Mexico that come in a box that almost duplicates Hylift/Johnsons box. Buyer beware.
Get them from Paul K, one our trusted Pontiac parts vendors:http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=788732

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  #120  
Old 04-03-2016, 10:35 PM
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Scratch the CC lifters ... a set of Hy-lifts from Paul coming soon.

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