Pontiac - Race The next Level

          
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  #81  
Old 03-27-2016, 10:53 PM
mgarblik mgarblik is offline
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I kind of figured that on the top ring position, but couldn't see the valve relief well in the pic. .927 pin also makes perfect sense if I would have thought about it. It allowed you to move the rod up slightly which was a goal and of course a big weight savings over a .990 pin. Of course the down side is you had to pony up for Vasco-jet or some similar material to get the strength you needed. Big RPM cost even bigger $$$. Looking at this engine, you have that routine down . Good luck with the project.

  #82  
Old 03-28-2016, 07:54 AM
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Best, quality thread we've had on here in a long time. Thanks Mike!

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  #83  
Old 03-28-2016, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike leech View Post
Sorry if it looks like a ebonics. I'm using talk to text. And it likes to change sentences every once in a while. Anyway Scott gave me a cam card to post.
Looks like specs on my springs.
What lash do you run Mike....or did I miss that ? 😉

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  #84  
Old 03-28-2016, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60man View Post
Looks like specs on my springs.
What lash do you run Mike....or did I miss that ? 😉
Whatever it wants

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  #85  
Old 03-28-2016, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60man View Post
Looks like specs on my springs.
What lash do you run Mike....or did I miss that ? ��
When a cam is designed normally the lobe / valve lift is done and than a lash ramp is added. Depending on what the designed wanted for his lash ramp and your rocker arm ratio that tells you what the standard lash should be. Now unless you got the perfect cam, running lash loops on the dyno can show some improvement. But one setting does not fit all.

Stan

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  #86  
Old 03-28-2016, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan Weiss View Post
When a cam is designed normally the lobe / valve lift is done and than a lash ramp is added. Depending on what the designed wanted for his lash ramp and your rocker arm ratio that tells you what the standard lash should be. Now unless you got the perfect cam, running lash loops on the dyno can show some improvement. But one setting does not fit all.

Stan
Like I said whatever it wants.

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  #87  
Old 03-28-2016, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike leech View Post
Like I said whatever it wants.
Mike,
All I was trying to do was explain to him why if you had given him your lash setting they are basically useless for him even if he has the same cam.

Stan

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  #88  
Old 03-28-2016, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan Weiss View Post
Mike,
All I was trying to do was explain to him why if you had given him your lash setting they are basically useless for him even if he has the same cam.

Stan
I understand. And was simply affirming your reply as the long version of my reply. 😀

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  #89  
Old 03-28-2016, 01:18 PM
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Mike - besides Scott who else is involved in this build? John M? Chris U?

  #90  
Old 03-28-2016, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
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Best, quality thread we've had on here in a long time. Thanks Mike!
X1,000....

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  #91  
Old 03-28-2016, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTO Dan View Post
Mike - besides Scott who else is involved in this build? John M? Chris U?
Scott Brown is responsible for all of the internal engine components valvetrain etc. i just get with him on what we are trying to do and he makes it happen.

John Marcella is a bad dude and all things air flow. I challenge him a little sometimes in a productive way. Hes got a knack for knowing what will make the engine happy.

Really thats the INVOLVEMENT. I highly recommend both.


Chris is a great friend and a bad dude in his own right. I would say we discuss ideas and share a bit of information. He also helps out in a pinch when I need something he has access to. Like any friend would do. I think he just likes this engine because it's a freak of nature.

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  #92  
Old 03-28-2016, 04:16 PM
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Is this Thread sanctioned by the ECM?

  #93  
Old 03-28-2016, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud View Post
Is this Thread sanctioned by the ECM?
LOL. Doubt it.

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  #94  
Old 03-28-2016, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike leech View Post
Scott Brown is responsible for all of the internal engine components valvetrain etc. i just get with him on what we are trying to do and he makes it happen.

John Marcella is a bad dude and all things air flow. I challenge him a little sometimes in a productive way. Hes got a knack for knowing what will make the engine happy.

Really thats the INVOLVEMENT. I highly recommend both.


Chris is a great friend and a bad dude in his own right. I would say we discuss ideas and share a bit of information. He also helps out in a pinch when I need something he has access to. Like any friend would do. I think he just likes this engine because it's a freak of nature.
That is an impressive group (you included). The ability to toss around, discuss and debate ideas with people like that is invaluable. Thanks again for including all of us.

  #95  
Old 03-28-2016, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike leech View Post
True. Unfortunately we never had a good outing in the car. The runs I made were shifted at 83 to 8500. There's more left.

Trying to control piston speed some. And there's no sense beating the snot out of it when the car was obviously not performing correctly on the starting line. We realize we need to shift higher. We just need a little time.
I'm not exactly sure of the stroke in this engine, but the piston speed is right up there with NHRA Prostock engines.

If you compare Mikes projected 9000 RPM, it's like turning a small block 350ci engine to 12,000 RPM.

At these piston speeds, you are on the edge of maintaining the integrity of specific alloys within the rotating assembly.

Best of luck to you and your team!

Thanks.

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  #96  
Old 03-28-2016, 09:52 PM
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So.... Now we take a break to discuss heads. Johns a bad dude. The heads are not what some think or say. The valves have not been moved. In fact the factory installed seats are still in place. The valves are as large as will fit in the stock location. Ti intake...but still a stainless steel exhaust valve. Theres only so much you can do to them .....
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  #97  
Old 03-28-2016, 10:02 PM
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What cc is the intake port?

  #98  
Old 03-28-2016, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greggutknecht View Post
What cc is the intake port?
I don't know. There's a pushrod on one side of the port, a head bolt on the other side. Valve cover rail above and almost nothing to Seal a valley pan underneath. Never measured them for volume.

The real answer is not big enough. And that's the truth.

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  #99  
Old 03-28-2016, 10:27 PM
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As for headers.... Another piece of the puzzle where everyone goes wrong. If you're going to make north of 1000 hp you're going to need headers that are made for the engine your building. You're not going to buy them for $600 or even $800. You're going to drop your car off at somebody shop he's going to charge you probably two to $3000 to make you headers. Maybe more.

Or you can build your own. I made mine and I still had $1500 in material. That was on the super cheap. I made my own collector starting with The cheap OBX Collectors off of eBay. Made a megaphone and reducing cone speced by Scott. Yes they are stepped Hatters. The first tube is big the second tube is bigger and the third one is too big. I'm not going to say sizes and again it's a relevant to someone else's Engine anyway.
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  #100  
Old 03-28-2016, 10:28 PM
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.....
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