[fbirdinconcord]

a few random pics

[gregsgtos2]

gotta have the old sun tach.

[fbirdinconcord]

All gauges will stay. I have also tracked down the exact 8 track player that the owner put in the car in 1972. The mount is still under the dash.

As of right now all the car will get is all necessary operating items and a good detail. If we can get the motor unstuck I should be driving the car in a couple of weeks.

[ponjohn]

WOW!

[fbirdinconcord]

more pics

[fbirdinconcord]

even more pics

[1967Clone]

That is an incredible car!

I cringed at the original pics of it on the uhaul trailer though. No way I'd haul anything valuable on any of the uhaul garbage around here.

Damn I want to find something like this before I die!

[Bet Winner]

Originally Posted by Transamric

On the wiper/washer hose comments,....if I'm understanding correctly, my Van Nuys '69 (350HO) is built the same way. The drivers side hose is routed through a hole punched in the firewall. Hopefully the pics I'll load will clearly show this.

I believe that my Van Nuys 05D 68 Bird uses the same routing.

[Charlie Jones]

Originally Posted by fbirdinconcord

All gauges will stay. I have also tracked down the exact 8 track player that the owner put in the car in 1972. The mount is still under the dash.

As of right now all the car will get is all necessary operating items and a good detail. If we can get the motor unstuck I should be driving the car in a couple of weeks.

In my past experience I have "unstuck" a couple of rust seized engines. They ran but smoked like he** and didn't run very good or very long.
In my humble opinion, you would be best off completely dismantling and rebuilding the engine.
Attempting to run the engine with rusted cylinder walls may do other engine components harm and make it harder or even impossible to rebuild.
Dismantling a siezed engine is no piece of cake either, I did a Lincoln V-12 once, and had to drive the pistons out with a piece of oak 4x4 and a sledgehammer! After removing the crankshaft from the bottom end! Good Luck!

[6 Grrrs]

Originally Posted by 1967Clone

Damn I want to find something like this before I die!

Me too.

[fbirdinconcord]

I agree it is a very slim chance we will get this engine running as it is. I think it is alot of wishful thinking. The main problem with it is that if I rebuild the engine it will kill the originality I am trying to keep. If the engine gets hot tanked it will remove the original paint. If I repaint the engine then I need to repaint the heads and intake. If I repaint those then I am going to need to paint all of the brackets and pulleys. If I paint those I will need to get the carb and alternator restored. I will have to paint the ram air pans. Which means I will have to paint the underhood area. And of course I have to refinish the manifolds. Since that will all look so nice I will have to paint the inner wheel wells and core support. Since I have the hood off of the car I might as well send the hinges and springs out for plating. Since I am back in that area I might as well have the master cylinder and booster rebuilt. Then the wiper motor is right there and will of course need refinishing. I might as well replace the heater core and refinish the cover which will mean I need to paint the firewall. Since all of that is done I might as well pull the subframe and refinish it and all front suspension components. Of course the steering box needs to be sent out. With the subframe out I might as well start cleaning up the undercarriage which means I will need to pull the rear end for rebuild and refinishing........

I think you get my point. I really do not want to restore this car right now. But, I will do what it takes not to damage the engine, that is why we are pulling it and putting it on a stand. Cross your fingers

[pontiac6269]

Nice find. Heres an idea about the engine. Maybe do a rering with new bearings. Deglaze the cylinders to remove any rust, polish the crank. You could wash the engine with soap and water to just clean it so it don't remove the existing paint. My first engine build was done this way and lasted for 7 years with racing and daily driving duty. I know most wouldn't like this but it's and idea to keep from turning into a full blown restoration that you want to avoid at the moment and to check for internal engine damage. Good luck with what you decide.

[Charlie Jones]

Originally Posted by pontiac6269

Nice find. Heres an idea about the engine. Maybe do a rering with new bearings. Deglaze the cylinders to remove any rust, polish the crank. You could wash the engine with soap and water to just clean it so it don't remove the existing paint. My first engine build was done this way and lasted for 7 years with racing and daily driving duty. I know most wouldn't like this but it's and idea to keep from turning into a full blown restoration that you want to avoid at the moment and to check for internal engine damage. Good luck with what you decide.

This is what I would suggest also. The block, and other parts, can be cleaned with Tide and hot water satisfactorly. Just make sure to carefully clean the oil passages with a rifle barrel brush.
If you have to use a lot of force to remove the pistons it is best to have them dye penetrant inspected for cracks. Pay special attention to the ring lands.
If, after honing, you still have pits deeper than .001 (about enough to feel with your finger) Then you will have to re-bore the block to an oversize that will clean up the cylinder wall, and use new pistons. All cylinders MUST be bored to the same oversize.
Pay attention to the camshaft lobes also, if they are rusted or pitted the cam must be reground or replaced along with new lifters. If the lifters are to be re-used they must be kept in order so they go back. on the same cam lobe. Good Luck!

[dancolkate]

Here's another thought. Put the numbers block on a stand until you're prepared for a full rebuild. Find a complete running engine so that you can drive the car in the mean time. Just a thought.

I wouldn't take a chance with that numbers block....jmho

[turbo69bird]

Take some stuff called ring free we use it on outboard engines. it has alot fo detergent in it and it will unstick rings like you wouldnt believe. Try that first and give it some time to work. If you get it loose and start it run the ring free into it while its running and hot. that may do the trick and get rid of any smoking.

half the engines I have freed ran well. the ones that smokes were usually valve seals nt ring issues.

Love the car.
I had a great find like that once too. It was a RAIV firebird.

It was a blessing and a curse at the same time.LOL
you'll see what I mean.
Good luck with it.

[RAJ7395]

Tought situation.

I've been to many shows where there is a perfectly restored car sitting next to an all original survivor and the survivor most often takes the trophy. The flip side is that the restored car runs great and the survivor either doesn't or barely runs.

If you want to keep the car original, then don't touch anything, trailer it to all the shows, and collect the trophies. If you want to drive it then I'd restore it as it's the best way to insure that it will be returned to a safe driveable condition.

I'd suggest a carefull inspection of the suspension and braking systems. If the upper and lower A-arms bushings are dry rotted, it's best to replace them now or they will cause ride/alignment issues and damage to the lower subframe A-arm bolt holes. You'll probably need shocks, and may need an idler arm, inner/outter tie rod ends, body mount bushings, sway bar bushings. As a precaution, I'd repack the front wheel bearings, change the rear differential fluid, and go through the front and rear braking systems. Check to see if the booster still works or if the diaphram is shot. I'd go ahead and rebuild the master cylinder, calipers, brake cylinders to insure that rubber o-rings aren't dry rotted to the point that they'll fail on you, and put on fresh pads, shoes and new rear brake shoe hardware.

With regard to the engine, I'd bite the bullet and restore it to the best of my ability. It's the original and thus it's not worth risking it getting damaged by taking any shortcuts. Hot tank it and get all passages cleaned out, bore it, new bearings, grind the crank, recondition the rods, new pistons if needed re-ring it, rebuild/replace the oil pump, new cam and timing set for sure. If the engine was over-reved in the past, you might have a damaged spring so I'd do a valve job and install some new valve springs/keepers/retainers (cheap insurance). Might consider updating the heads with hardened exhaust valve seats so you can run unleaded without damaging them. Of course you'll probably want to get the carb rebuilt and send the distributer out to get recurved while you're at it. When you get done, you'll know exactly what you have and that it's safe to drive.

Just my $.02

Good Luck and keep the pictures coming!!

[4dblnkldude]

I,ve been following this thread and good luck with whatever you do with it. That is a one of a kind find! However, I disagree with raj, never trailer that car!

[INJUNTOM]

You should bring it to the BOP show in Madera in April.

[RR67GTO]

I agree drive the car. Doing a resto on it could mean many years before you have a chance to enjoy it. And, sometimes after all the work of a resto the car has lost some of the fun you bought it for. I know, a 67 GTO is a love hate relationship. Because the years of bad memories and all the jerks I found along the way. Enjoy it and kep it from getting bad. Have a wonderful time with your prize.

[muscle_collector]

leave it the way it is. once you restore it, you dont have anything special other than a restored 69 trans am.