[HWYSTR455]

Refresh my memory on the type of trans?

Drive & driven gears need to match a certain range, if they don't match, the driven gear (plastic) can grind teeth off and it can slip.

Pull the speedo gear 'bullet' out of the trans and look at the driven gear, see if it's ground down. You can pull that out easy, just remove the cable and the retainer, and it comes right out.

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[HWYSTR455]

Nevermind, I see now, there is only 1 drive gear for the TKO with the GM speedo adapter, and all driven gears are compatible.


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[64speed]

So I have been driving the hell out of it and I must say I am very pleased. Even though it only has a front and back seat and it’s like driving a 600hp coke can it’s pretty awesome. My only concern at this point is in cooling, it doesn’t overheat it actually over cools mostly BUT I do experience temperature “creep”. If I idle for an extended period of time it goes up to 200 and lingers around there, I do think it would get higher, don’t know if it would actually overheat but I just don’t have the traffic around here to find out. I think if I optimize my timing it will stop but outside that does anyone have any suggestions?

[grivera]

If the 200 is with the AC on you're doing great. Even if not with AC on, 200 is fine - the question is does it keep going up uncontrollably?

[Murf]

Just keep putting miles on it. I bet it will act better the more miles you put on it. When I built a fresh 455 for my Firebird it came close to getting hot. After driving it awhile it got much better. Plus 200 is nowhere close to hot.

Relax & have fun!
Murf

[68WarDog]

What clutch fan assembly are you using? I recently did the clutch spring repositioning , and it has been good for an average of 8/9 degrees decrease in heavy 90+ degree traffic( 175-178). If the fan/ clutch assembly is inadequate you will creep higher.
My 70 is 600+bhp. 14 initial/34 total @3k. I'm running a 4 core aluminum radiator with stock shroud. Pontiac 19" 7 blade fan, Hayden 2747 clutch with the spring repositioned as mentioned. 160 thermostat, and I have the rear of my heads Td. 25% antifreeze, distilled water with a bottle of water wetter.

[64speed]

Originally Posted by grivera

If the 200 is with the AC on you're doing great. Even if not with AC on, 200 is fine - the question is does it keep going up uncontrollably?

Thank you for the modified fan clutch. I have a Cold Case radiator, fan shroud, biggest fan that will fit in it (17 inch) and a Hayden severe duty clutch. I dont know if it would actually overheat or not, I just dont want to find out at the worst time.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by 64speed

Thank you for the modified fan clutch. I have a Cold Case radiator, fan shroud, biggest fan that will fit in it (17 inch) and a Hayden severe duty clutch. I dont know if it would actually overheat or not, I just dont want to find out at the worst time.

you're welcome

[HWYSTR455]

I suspect you need more timing advance at idle.

You have vacuum advance? Is it on ported or manifold source?

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[64speed]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I suspect you need more timing advance at idle.

You have vacuum advance? Is it on ported or manifold source?

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I was thinking that was a possibility. I have it on full vacuum because the car seems to cruise better that way.

[HWYSTR455]

Manifold is good, now you just need to know how much you're getting at idle. Obviously, if your idle rpm changes, it changes your vacuum, and hence, changes your vacuum advance.

A good starting point for initial (mech) timing is in the 12-16 degree range, I personally usually run 16.

Vacuum, general range is 6-14 degrees, with more initial, usually less vacuum advance (closer to 6-8) works, but it takes testing. (I personally use about 10, 8 with a regular 'can' type vacuum pod).

Add that up, and at idle, I usually am around 24-26 degrees.

That's with about 925-950 RPM idle, and I suggest trying in the 850 range to start.

If you idle around 650-750 rpm, adding 100-200 rpm will make a difference on timing, vacuum, and, in turn, cooling. (moving more coolant too)

Of course it take minor carb adjustments as you try to find what works best for you, moving in those ranges. I suggest taking notes with each step, so you can reference results of your changes. (Helps keeping you from getting 'lost')

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[HWYSTR455]

Manual cars are fine idling at 950-1000 RPM by the way. Depending on your combo, at 1000 idle, you can in many cases slowly release the clutch without giving it gas, and not stall. Keeps 'foot-dancing' at a minimum.

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[64speed]

Thank you, ok I have a question for those of you with bench seats. Is the back seat supposed to be useless? I am in the holes in the floor, they are the only set, the floor has never been replaced and I am leaned back. The back bolts are in the slope of the floor making the back of the seat lean way back. I was thinking I could move it forward a little and drill holes. I can drive fine but I cant take anything but a child in the back and all the way forward even my wife cant reach the pedals.

[grivera]

Dave - is your CC radiator downflow like factory?

[64speed]

I dont know

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by 64speed

Thank you, ok I have a question for those of you with bench seats. Is the back seat supposed to be useless? I am in the holes in the floor, they are the only set, the floor has never been replaced and I am leaned back. The back bolts are in the slope of the floor making the back of the seat lean way back. I was thinking I could move it forward a little and drill holes. I can drive fine but I cant take anything but a child in the back and all the way forward even my wife cant reach the pedals.

Did you have your seats refoamed and resprung? Sometimes, due to overfill or use of denser foam, the seat bottom can be much higher than it was, more so in the front part of the seat bottom. That can make you leaned way back.

Is it a split bench? Maybe the sliders are on the wrong sides?

Was it that way before?

You can always user spacers on the rear legs of the sliders if you wanted to.

Back seat should be functional, but it's not going to be like a 4 door.

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[64speed]

Well we went on the interstate for the first time today. It stays right where the thermostat is set except...idling. On the way home and there it was great, it was great around town, let it idle while I got gas and it crept up to about 200 again. I got home and let it idle in the driveway for a while and it crept up to 210. Once it got there I shut it off. I am gonna adjust the timing when I can and see what that does.

[Sirrotica]

Old radiator guy showed me how to test to see if the fan is pulling enough air at idle. He held a cigarette in front of the grille to test air flow at idle, it sure gives you a visual cue as to fan and shroud efficiency.

Same guy also showed me how to test the thermostatic clutch at idle. He took some corrugated cardboard and rolled it into a tube and tried to stop the fan blade with it hot, and idling. If you can stop the fan with the rolled up cardboard, the clutch is deficient.

Of course you need to be careful when doing this, and keep your hands out of the fan.........

[grivera]

Originally Posted by 64speed

I dont know

Does the core run vertically (end tank top/bottom) or horizontally (end tank left/right)? do you have a pic?

[68WarDog]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

Old radiator guy showed me how to test to see if the fan is pulling enough air at idle. He held a cigarette in front of the grille to test air flow at idle, it sure gives you a visual cue as to fan and shroud efficiency.

Same guy also showed me how to test the thermostatic clutch at idle. He took some corrugated cardboard and rolled it into a tube and tried to stop the fan blade with it hot, and idling. If you can stop the fan with the rolled up cardboard, the clutch is deficient.

Of course you need to be careful when doing this, and keep your hands out of the fan.........

What would happen if David completely disengage the coil spring ( completely remove it out of the slot).?I'm thinking it would permanently engage the fan, and may resolve his creep heat ?