Pontiac - Race The next Level

          
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  #61  
Old 01-17-2013, 10:30 PM
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Surprised that it ran?

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  #62  
Old 01-17-2013, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gata79 View Post
I think the LS is ieieieie instead of eiieeiie. When I turn the engine to adjust the valves and I go by the LS firing order the valves are closed. When they open 1,2,5,6 intake and exhaust are opposite.
WOW...I guess "check everything really means check everything" I never would have guessed that. This didn't show itself when you degreed the cam?

Glad you found it...hope it goes smooth going forward...you earned it.

  #63  
Old 01-17-2013, 10:38 PM
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Glad to hear you figured it out before more damage could be done.

I'm still in disbelief that a cam grinder actually did that to you

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  #64  
Old 01-17-2013, 11:38 PM
gata79 gata79 is offline
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Yes Jim the heads are off. Thankfully no damage to the valves. We just degree'd it to the first lobe.The cam grinder thought we were putting LS heads on it.

  #65  
Old 01-18-2013, 12:47 AM
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Sounds to me like it's only getting voltage to the coil when the ignition switch is in the start position.

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  #66  
Old 01-18-2013, 01:22 PM
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Not trying to do anything other than understand -- but if the cam was ground for a symetrical head like the ls head - would the lobes NOT be phased correctly to even be able to adjust the valves in a non symectric head configuration??

  #67  
Old 01-18-2013, 02:34 PM
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I think they are just cylinder firing swaps, so you would be adjusting the valves in their overlap position on those cylinders.

  #68  
Old 01-18-2013, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gata79 View Post
Thanks for all the advice. We finally figured it out. The cam was ground in a LS valve pattern,not just firing order. I'm sure that's why it pulled all the rust out of the headers also.
maybe im missunderstanding this?

  #69  
Old 01-18-2013, 04:14 PM
Poncholvr Poncholvr is offline
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I had a Toyota Supra one time that I was working on which was a no start. I didn't even get a sputter or anything with it. Went through all the diagnostics in regards to no start. Checked power to the coil positive w/a test light while cranking. Checked for spark from the coil, thru the cap & then onto the plug. Was able to jump a good 1/2in gap at the plug. Had injector pulse. Tried feeding it fuel w/a can of flammable carb spray through the throttle body, etc. Nothing. Eventually a friend (and fellow tech) hipped me to checking for cranking vacuum. Basically he said that if there were no vacuum leaks and the carb throttle plates were closed, you should see some kind of vacuum signal if the valve train is doing what it's supposed to do. Something around 5 inches of mercury.

Once I found the problem (was towed in from another shop originally), I found that the cam gears (dual overhead cam engine) were installed 90 degrees off. The Supra engines have 3 hole options in regards to cam gear installation (smart idea!! rolleyes). Once I got the cams phased where they should have been and slapped it all together, the thing lit right off and idled bitchen.

So just for kicks, I killed the ignition and checked to see what the cranking vacuum should have looked like and it was 5 inches of vacuum. Then I walked over to my race car & checked it's cranking vacuum, it was about 1.5 to 2 inches. And that was with a cam lift of over .700 lift. Of course, if your throttle plates are set open too much, you'll see a lower vacuum signal. So if in doubt, just back the throttle blades closed. Bottom line is, if you see nothing? You've either got a valve train problem or one decent sized vacuum leak. Because just remember. These big engines of ours are just glorified air pumps is all.

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Old 01-18-2013, 04:54 PM
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I rain into a similar problem a few years ago rebuilding a buddys Harley. The cam gear was pressed on wrong. Took me forever to figure that one out. Luckily, didn't hit any valves.

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