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#61
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I really hate to say it but I think Jeff is right. It looks like the emblem should have been placed with the O where the G is, if that makes sense.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! Last edited by fyrffytr1; 01-24-2016 at 10:54 PM. |
#62
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I don't know what happened to the out of focus, cropped image that is missing from my post above but here it is again.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
#63
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Yup, I can definitely see it's off. But the more I look at it the more I like it further forward. Helps break up some of the relestate
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
#64
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Car looks great in paint. Very exciting milestone.
What did you use for the floor insulation? I still have the original tar paper and want to lay something down to help keep the cabin cooler.
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Andy North Carolina 1967 GTO SG over Parchment / mom original owner / sold in '78 / found 35 years later |
#65
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Thanks, I used fatmat sound deadener. I bought 75 sqft and had about 10 sqft left over. I also used dynamat extreme on the roof since it sticks better than the fatmat. I've used fatmat in numerous other cars with great results.
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
#66
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As long as you like it that's all that matters and 99% of the people who look at the car won't notice it.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
#67
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Tonight I got the passenger side inner fender well in and also began fitting the exhaust. I went with the pypes stainless x pipe kit. I've heard of some people having some fitment issues with our 66-67 cars but mostly after the mufflers. Once I get the whole system up I will do some chopping and welding as necessary.
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
#68
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I used the Pypes system as well and had no issues. I chose to use band clamps instead of welding because I may make some chages down the road.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
#69
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That's good to hear. I am planning on welding everything except the mufflers. I bought band clamps for both ends of those. I figure the only thing I'll change down the road is the mufflers.
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
#70
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67 gtospud- When ever I Jack up my car, it seems like I have problems with the doors/fenders rubbing/contacting each other. My 66 is a convertible which might causer the twisting, but once I take it off the Jack stands the doors open fine and gaps go back to normal. I think once you get it off the Jack stands everything will be ok. I try not to leave it up on Jack stands overnight if possible.
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1966 GTO Vert automatic. 1969 CR Judge Ram Air III 4sp Pattern Car. 1969 GTO standard 350HP TH-400. 2006 GTO Phantom Black 6spd. 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air. 1976 LE Trans Am 50th Anniversary Edition with T top. 1976 Formula 350. 1977 Grand Prix Model J 350. 1978 Trans am 400 Pontiac. 1979 Trans am 403 Olds. 1968 Olds 442. 1971 TR6. |
#71
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
#72
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Got all of the exhaust hung and fitted tonight. I have to put the rear bumper up so I can fit the tips. Then I'll weld everything up. I also started putting the grills in. I'm less than pleased with the fit of the Header panel. It's a repop so I'm not overly surprised either. The passenger side lines up really nice and the grill/molding fits nice. The driver side is a whole different animal. I had to trim the surround slightly just to get it to sit where it needs to. Then I had to elongate the holes in the header panel so the molding fits, and it still doesn't fit quite right.
I won't make any progress this weekend since I'm leaving tomorrow for work. Flying out to Cali!
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
#73
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Got back late last night and worked on the car some today. I got the rear bumper up and almost where it needs to be. A few more minor tweaks and it'll be all set. I may have to bend the fuel filler neck some. Any tricks to this? The tank is new. Tomorrow I'll get the tips in place then start tacking everything. I have to go to Kentucky Friday so I'm going to try to get as much done as possible this week.
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
#74
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It's been a couple weeks since I posted so I figured I'd give a little update.
I finished getting the rear bumper in place, got all the exhaust up, tacked, welded and refit. Also the tail lights are installed. ![]() I also put together the headlight harness and tested it. All the exterior lights work as they should. With this kit the parking lights stay on with the headlights. ![]() ![]() I finished all the plumbing for the brakes. Put a line lock in my system and hit it under the battery tray. I wasn't too sure at first with running the lines from the proportioning valve forward vs backward but it was tons easier to work on, and IMO aren't overly noticeable. ![]() I also finished plumbing the hydroboost system and will fill it with fluid tomorrow and bleed it out. ![]() I stuck the seat inside so I can mount the triple gauge cluster where it needs to go. Then the seat will come back out till final installation. ![]() I also got the new Mickey Thompson tires mounted on the rally 2s. I'm waiting for my transmission fluid to come in so I can refill the trans then I'll bolt on the new shoes and set it back in the ground. Next I will be cleaning up the dash wiring and get the dash installed.
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
#75
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Mman, you are really coming along nicely. Before you know you will be redoing it!
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
#76
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Looks great! Also looks dam good with the parking lights on with the headlights.
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![]() Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#77
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Love the paint, you are doing a great job it is turning out nice!
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Bring back my 67 GTO: Shes ALIVE as of 2-19-13 previously owned 78 Firebird 67 Nova 64 Nova |
#78
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I spent a few hours last night working on the car. I got the tires back on. I decided to go with Mickey Thompson over BFG. I prefer the tread pattern of the MT and also they were less expensive. I only got a couple pictures of it back on the ground.
![]() ![]() I also filled the cooling system, and the power steering system. Both will be bled out when I start the car. I got more of the wiring under the dash straightened out and put in place but there's still lots to do. The triple gauge bracket is in place but I'm deciding if I want to place a woodgrain vinyl over it to match the dash. Also I now need to purchase a new dash carrier since mine cracked as I tried to install it. The bottom between the ashtray and column snapped right off. It was Oem and fairly brittle. I'm going to order s new repop carrier and insert from Ames next week. Wouldn't be so bad but I had already put a new insert in that dash and it was all assembled. ![]()
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
#79
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Yesterday I got the water temp gauge, oil pressure and voltmeter hooked up. Everything was ready and set to fire up for the first time since the engine was on the run stand for cam break-in. I fired it up and had to quickly shut down due to a fuel leak at the filter which was my fault. Also there was a large oil leak by the oil filter. Turns out the adapter was cracked by the pressure sending unit. I found one locally from a friend and got that replaced today. Fired up again today and went fairly well. Solid oil pressure at 60-65psi. Once it warmed up was steady at 30-35 at idle. I did have a couple problems though that I could use a little help with:
1. My water temp gauge isn't reading. It's an auto meter. I have the bulb in the front of the intake manifold by the water neck. I didn't drop a thermometer in but I could feel it was hot. I ran it until the cooling system bled out and no reading whatsoever on the gauge. 2. My power steering pump squeals hard at each lock, and when I press the brake pedal hard. I have an astrovan hydroboost unit. Is it possibly squeeling cause there might still be air in the system? Besides that I have a very slight drip from my oil filter that I will look at tomorrow. I wasn't going to stick my hand by the hot header. Also today was the first time the car officially moved under its own power in the 11 years that I've owned it! I can't imagine how long it's actually been off the road.
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears Last edited by 67gtospud; 02-22-2016 at 10:23 PM. |
#80
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#2 may be as simple as tightening the p/s belt a bit. |
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