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  #61  
Old 08-01-2021, 01:23 PM
dhutton dhutton is offline
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When it comes to different lines of paint from the same manufacturer ... like PPG Deltron vs Omni .... what's the difference? What advantages are offered by the more expensive product line?

So far my two favorite Verdora Green bases that have been used by forum members, based on the their cars are a PPG product (not sure which but have a photo of the label) and a Dupont Chromabase . Have no idea of their quality, price, ease of use etc. just thought that particular Verdora Green was great.

BTW, just ordered an LPH-400 LV with the silver 1.4mm cap.
Coverage….. More coats needed to cover with low tier base coats.

Don

  #62  
Old 08-01-2021, 01:43 PM
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The job I'm currently doing is Omni. It seemed to cover pretty well, but I've read it can require more coats.

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  #63  
Old 08-03-2021, 06:25 PM
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The obligatory body shell photo.
Another couple days of blasting and sanding and it will be done. Doing my sanding with a PortaCable buffer ... way faster than my electric R.O. sander.

And ... is just me or does 80 grit actually remove paint faster than courser grits?

Got lucky with a few days of wonderful weather.

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  #64  
Old 08-03-2021, 07:48 PM
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I usually use 80 grit when stripping to raw metal.

The body looks good!

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  #65  
Old 08-03-2021, 08:19 PM
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I do agree, courser grits don't always remove material quicker or better than less course. As a machinist and sometimes having to grind iron castings before paint, a 36 grit didn't work as well as a 50 grit.

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  #66  
Old 08-03-2021, 09:29 PM
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Data way……what part of the country is your Cah from ?

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  #67  
Old 08-03-2021, 09:30 PM
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Not as many granules of grit per area and the larger granules are needed for what you are cutting. I've seen it happen with finer grits on various surfaces too.

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  #68  
Old 08-03-2021, 10:42 PM
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Lookin' good, Data. Keep it up!

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  #69  
Old 08-04-2021, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
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Data way……what part of the country is your Cah from ?
Tennessee originally, spent 90% of it's driving life down there, with a small amount on the road in FL and NY.

Total rust perforation on the entire car was about about the size of your palm. So got lucky there. When I bought it in TN in 1976 it was pretty much perfect.

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Old 08-04-2021, 08:02 AM
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I'm leaning toward TCP for the base coat, for a few reasons, they seem pretty focused on the OEM restoration colors, ease of ordering, easy to order just the things I want and mix and match sizes, reducers etc. and I hate having to call people, I keep unusual hours , and their prices seem reasonable. I like the fact that they apparently do their own paint, rather than deal with a situation where someone is selling someone else's product, which can complicate things, specially when ordering something like vintage OEM colors.

I've downloaded and printed the SPI tech sheets for their primer and clear, and the "perfect paintjob" article.

Anyone have bad feedback on TCP?

TCP's product is 2:1 .. I assume that would mean I need more than one gallon of color?

Also, beginner question here ... these Urethane basecoats use the reducer as the catalyst? No separate "hardener" or catalyst required?

  #71  
Old 08-04-2021, 08:07 AM
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Some base can be have a little activator mixed in with it. One cap full per spray gun cup. That will help with chemical adhesion of the clear. Base is always the weakest link for adhesion in a paint job though. It's also why I always want to use a sealer/adhesion coat of reduced epoxy in the hours before spraying the first coat of paint.
I think this is mandatory step if the last coat of primer was epoxy.

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2019 BMW 440ix - Twin turbo I6, 8spd auto. PHOTO
'55 Chevy Bel Air Sport Coupe - Ram Jet 350 / T56 Magnum 6spd, Restomod Completed Sept. 2012, Sold Sept. 2021 PHOTO

Last edited by roger1; 08-04-2021 at 08:20 AM.
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  #72  
Old 08-04-2021, 10:29 AM
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I just sent a note to Chad's asking about what my options for Verdora Green would be and what the pricing is. Hopefully they will have something between top of the line PPG and TCP

  #73  
Old 08-04-2021, 01:34 PM
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Looks like I'm probably going with the Motobase from Chad's. If anyone is interested it will be $524/gal mixes 1:1 and free shipping. So .. compared to TCP at $330/gal, mixed 2:1, and no free shipping it's probably a wash.

Thanks for the input and advice folks.

AND ... this just showed up. Even came with an unexpected PPS starter kit .. unfortunately it's the second gen PPS .. and I've already ordered a first gen adapter to match a couple of cases of first gen pps lids and liners I have

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Last edited by dataway; 08-04-2021 at 02:05 PM.
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  #74  
Old 08-04-2021, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
The obligatory body shell photo.
Another couple days of blasting and sanding and it will be done. Doing my sanding with a PortaCable buffer ... way faster than my electric R.O. sander.

And ... is just me or does 80 grit actually remove paint faster than courser grits?

Got lucky with a few days of wonderful weather.

That’s the kind of Body you want to restore . All original panels with original factory spot welds….not some rot box that most people on here want to resurrect from the dead….and build a car around a Vin tag. Them Tennessee cars are well preserved.

  #75  
Old 08-04-2021, 08:21 PM
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Always add one ounce of clear activator per sprayable quart of base to get good adhesion through cross linking.

Don

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  #76  
Old 08-05-2021, 07:03 AM
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dhutton, I won't be painting in ideal conditions at all .... so would the increased flash time from adding activator to the base cause me more problems with debris in the paint?

MUSLCAH, it does have some patches in the front floors I cut from larger repop floor pans, and it's got a repop core support I had to totally rework to make it right. And I replaced a few square inches of the rear wheel opening corners on both sides. Other than that it's all original metal. One advantage I guess of owning a car for 47 years

  #77  
Old 08-05-2021, 08:48 AM
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No increased flash time with hardner added to the Basecoat. Just a better bond. And when it’s time to make a repair on your car when a shopping cart hits it….you won’t be chasing that broken edge between the base and clearcoat when a wee bit of activator is added to the base.

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  #78  
Old 08-05-2021, 08:43 PM
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I use SPI on any rubber, use DPLF 40 OR 74 on bare metal, and usually Martin Senyor base, clears from Napa.
Will be trying the SPI hi build in the future

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  #79  
Old 08-07-2021, 03:12 PM
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It appears you bought a used LPH400. Am I correct? It can be a good way to buy one but you do have to watch out for counterfeits. There are some out there.
https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/c...ph-400.427362/

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'69 GTO Convertible - Acquired October 2020. An all original project car. Restomod is underway PROJECT THREAD
'83 Chevy Choo Choo SS El Camino - LT1 350/4L60e, Owned for 30 Years, completed 2nd restomod in 2018 PHOTO
2019 BMW 440ix - Twin turbo I6, 8spd auto. PHOTO
'55 Chevy Bel Air Sport Coupe - Ram Jet 350 / T56 Magnum 6spd, Restomod Completed Sept. 2012, Sold Sept. 2021 PHOTO
  #80  
Old 08-08-2021, 07:56 AM
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It's brand new, from a reputable tool supply company. Checked it carefully, all the proper Iwata documentation. Came with a 3M gen 2 PPS starter kit, both contained in an Iwata box. All the proper tools, proper English instructions etc. Ordered a kit of 50 gen 2 PPS 22 oz lids and liners, so with the couple of cases of gen 1 PPS stuff I'm probably all set for the next ten years.

Has the beautiful Iwata tulip tip. Very nice piece of kit. Can't wait to use it.

Might prime a door today, will be doing that with an FLG-3 with 1.8 tip. Should have the other door ready to go today, along with the trunk lid. Wife scraped off all the exterior seam sealer from the shell yesterday, a few pin holes to weld up and that will be ready to prime this coming week.

Think I'm going to shoot the valance panel in color before anything else to check out the LPH on the least visible part on the car.


Last edited by dataway; 08-08-2021 at 08:02 AM.
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