[oethel]

Got done with waste gate piping.I'm relieving boost from both banks.wasn't easy and space is getting tight on right side.my lower radiator hose is going to be crazy

[oethel]

Got my alt,power steering and vac pump installed.made brackets and I think it's going to work.steering pump is compact and off of a 2002 merc sable 4v 3.0.took back apart and painted brackets.found pulley at a speed shop with 5/8 shaft.

[oethel]

Used -12an for my return back to the pan.3/4 npt coupling in pan.had Tire clearance issues trying to come out of turbo with a 45° fitting.the 90° fitting wouldn't work without a spacer to get around turbo.had a piece of inch thick aluminum plate that I whittled on and made a spacer.the flange at the turbo is 3/4 npt then too -12an

[Tom Vaught]

Picture #2 looks like the aeroquip fitting is wedged solid against the turbine housing.
Will pass a lot of heat to the rubber inside the line unless the line is teflon.
Any way that you could add a length of drain pipe to your flange and get the fitting a inch or so away from the turbine housing 1" downward?

Tom V.

[oethel]

Does look close,but it's about 3/4.wonder if a small shield,header wrap or turbo blanket would help any.

[Tom Vaught]

I am not talking about where the line goes under the turbo, I am talking about where the fitting threads on the drain adaptor piece on the Turbo.

Tom V.

[oethel]

Sorry Tom didn't understand.maybe I an put short nipple and coupler to get that away from the turbine housing.thanks for the good eye

[charlie66]

Is it possible to change the 90 fitting to a 45 degree ? I think it would drain better if you can..

[Tom Vaught]

Agree with the 45 degree angle fitting if he has room, the large A/N Nut would still contact or be very close to the turbine housing though.

Don't want to kill the braided hose internals in a few thousand miles of driving. Then the rotted hose would go right into the oil pump screen.

Tom V.

[charlie66]

Im also a little weary of the height of the out into the pan. When breaking I would think that area is going to fill with oil and flood out the return of the turbo drain....

I know you didn't ask , but I thought I would tell you my opinion on this.. I hope it all works out for you...

[Tom Vaught]

Best height should be about 1.00" from the top of the pan rail to the center of the drain hole.
Should be 2.00" forward of the second bolt on the side of the pan from the front. (do not count the 4 Timing Cover bolts).

You want the drain slightly below the pan rail.

Tom V.

[oethel]

Boy didn't know this stuff.I've moved the engine back 2 inches and cut and boxed in the crossmember for header clearance and lowered the engine to where the pan is a 1/8 inch off the crossmember.think I can improve the drain out of the turbo to keep the heat down,but trying to keep that drain hose angle going down with a crossmember in the way,staying away from the header and keeping that hose from rubbing on anything was a problem.it kind of dictated where it had to go.don't think I could have done much better with what I had.but I sincerely appreciate the comments.

[Tom Vaught]

Sometimes the best recommended routing is just NOT going to make it and then you do the best that you can.

Horizontal oil flow is bad because the bubbles and foam can air lock the hose so the turbo does not drain properly then the turbo causes smoke out of the exhaust. Not good for the turbo either.

One thing might work, if you can drill two holes in the cross-member large enough for a 5/8" tube to go thru then you can patch in the line on either side of the tube. Some pics would really help here.

Tom V.

[n2ogpsj462]

Here's mine. 12 straight down

[oethel]

Need recommendations on a innercooler for my build.800 plus hp 3inch in and out.been looking at treadstone but not sure.the treadstone R model from what I read is not very streetable,but they have others.past experiences and current knowledge welcomed.

[charlie66]

one of these two would be my choice.

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...+Viper++1300HP


http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...1245-28+1200hp

[Tom Vaught]

First Off, you can have a great Brick (inter-cooler) with proper tubes feeding air to the cooling fins exposed to the vehicle airflow. But you can also screw up that inter-cooler Brick design with a poor inlet design.

Here are 3 inlet designs:

A Better Inter-cooler Design 1st pic, a good inter-cooler Design 2nd pic, and a Poor Inter-cooler Design 3rd pic.

All three, as said above may have a great core design.

If you look at the Better Inter-cooler Design (pic#1) the inlet is on the right side of the Brick.
The air comes into the inlet, some of the air hits the curved wall and some of the air packs up and stays need the bottom of the Brick.
What this does it provide nice even airflow to the full set of inter-cooler Brick "tubes" so every tube is doing the same amount of cooling.

If you look at the Good Inter-cooler Design (pic#2) the inlet can be on the right side or the left side of the Brick.
More options for plumbing here. The air comes into the Inlet tube, hits the back wall of the "Distribution Box", and then the air flows upward and downward to the set of inter-cooler Brick "tubes" so the Top portion of the tubes get a lot of nice air and the lower portion of the tubes get less air. Still not bad though.

If you look at the Not so Good Inter-cooler Design (pic#3) the inlet can be on the right side or the left side of the Brick.
The air basically comes into the inlet tube, there is really not much of a plenum on either side, so the air tries to flow thru the lower tubes and any air that can't get thru the tubes goes upward and then makes a hard left or right turn to get into the remaining inter-cooler tubes.
Easiest inter-cooler tanks to build but also the weakest as far as massive air flow capability. The Tubes might flow great the Inlet and Outlet Tanks suck.
So the inter-cooler tubes are rerally only working on that small bottom portion. The abrupt air flow direction changes are causing a lot of air turbulence.

I have added a couple of Ideal Design Inter-coolers Pics 4 and 5.
Pic #4 has very nice inlet tanks transitions. Pic #5 has the straight shot inlets BUT divides the core up into two bricks basically and makes sure that each side of the brick is doing less work and MORE EVEN work. #5 has a dual outlet but you could install a single LARGE outlet to the Bonnet for the Carb or the Throttle Body.


Food for thought.

Tom V.

[Kelvin Poe]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

First Off, you can have a great Brick (inter-cooler) with proper tubes feeding air to the cooling fins exposed to the vehicle airflow. But you can also screw up that inter-cooler Brick design with a poor inlet design.

Here are 3 inlet designs:

A Better Inter-cooler Design 1st pic, a good inter-cooler Design 2nd pic, and a Poor Inter-cooler Design 3rd pic.

All three, as said above may have a great core design.

If you look at the Better Inter-cooler Design (pic#1) the inlet is on the right side of the Brick.
The air comes into the inlet, some of the air hits the curved wall and some of the air packs up and stays need the bottom of the Brick.
What this does it provide nice even airflow to the full set of inter-cooler Brick "tubes" so every tube is doing the same amount of cooling.

If you look at the Good Inter-cooler Design (pic#2) the inlet can be on the right side or the left side of the Brick.
More options for plumbing here. The air comes into the Inlet tube, hits the back wall of the "Distribution Box", and then the air flows upward and downward to the set of inter-cooler Brick "tubes" so the Top portion of the tubes get a lot of nice air and the lower portion of the tubes get less air. Still not bad though.

If you look at the Not so Good Inter-cooler Design (pic#3) the inlet can be on the right side or the left side of the Brick.
The air basically comes into the inlet tube, there is really not much of a plenum on either side, so the air tries to flow thru the lower tubes and any air that can't get thru the tubes goes upward and then makes a hard left or right turn to get into the remaining inter-cooler tubes.
Easiest inter-cooler tanks to build but also the weakest as far as massive air flow capability. The Tubes might flow great the Inlet and Outlet Tanks suck.
So the inter-cooler tubes are rerally only working on that small bottom portion. The abrupt air flow direction changes are causing a lot of air turbulence.

I have added a couple of Ideal Design Inter-coolers Pics 4 and 5.
Pic #4 has very nice inlet tanks transitions. Pic #5 has the straight shot inlets BUT divides the core up into two bricks basically and makes sure that each side of the brick is doing less work and MORE EVEN work. #5 has a dual outlet but you could install a single LARGE outlet to the Bonnet for the Carb or the Throttle Body.


Food for thought.

Tom V.

Tom,
What's the biggest issue or disadvantage of the #3 "not so good" design? Mine just happens to be one of them. Lol. Just wondering if I should change it or if it's not that big of an issue on a lower boost setup, 8-10psi. I have everything apart right now, so it'd be a good time to do it, if needed.

Kelvin

[Tom Vaught]

#3 will get you about 60% of the cooling of a better inlet and outlet system. The turbulence inside the tank will not allow the boosted air to properly enter the cooler tubes where the cooling effect needs to happen.

At 8-10 psi it might not be too much of an issue

At 15 to 20 psi the Delta Pressure across the intercooler could be much higher.

At your power level it is a flip of the coin Kelvin. But Kelvin, if you have everything apart, why not make it better?
Since you are a great Fabricator of parts anyway and don't have to pay someone to do it right.

Tom V.

[Kelvin Poe]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

#3 will get you about 60% of the cooling of a better inlet and outlet system. The turbulence inside the tank will not allow the boosted air to properly enter the cooler tubes where the cooling effect needs to happen.

At 8-10 psi it might not be too much of an issue

At 15 to 20 psi the Delta Pressure across the intercooler could be much higher.

At your power level it is a flip of the coin Kelvin. But Kelvin, if you have everything apart, why not make it better?
Since you are a great Fabricator of parts anyway and don't have to pay someone to do it right.

Tom V.

Sounds good, I'll definitely look into it. Thanks.