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#61
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Did I buy the wrong TC, should I have gone with the smaller diameter, perhaps I should have started this thread before I bought the Hughes one .Here is were I am now : first I shopped Summit and they tried to sell me a Hughes # GM 20 BPO 400 BP , I cancelled that deal and shopped more and found this : ACC PERFORMANCE - Through Boss Hog # 46022 street bandit with 10" diameter, that is supposed to give me an extra 35 HP, I did not buy it because there was only 90 day Warranty . Next I went directly to Hughes so I can speak to any one who could answer my questions. At that time I thought I might have a Switch Pitch converter, turns out to be negative on that idea. Hughes said the 10" converter will run to hot in my 428 ci Th 400 and Gear Vendors application. So they sell me this: GM 20 BPO HD 400 BP AND TELL ME THIS TC can BE USED IN A (RV) application. This is the Heavy Duty version of the one Summit almost sold me on. Since this is my first TC I have ever purchased The question is "will a 10" TC run to hot in my application or have I yet again been miss informed by a salesman?"
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#62
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I'd like to help on the converter selection, but I only have experience on two converters that I have used, both 10" units. The not good one was in my Firebird when I purchased the car. Took a lot of gas pedal to move the car from a stop, stalled very high and had a lot of converter slip. The good one is a Continental brand that is not made anymore. Will move the car at idle, stalls at 3400 rpm, don't remember the slip percent.
I have a deep pan on the t-400 for extra fluid. I don't do extended highway driving, normally just 30 minutes, but have driven an hour and a half at a time. The trans temp gauge looks normal even though cruise rpm is 2500. There are people on this forum who have Hughes converters and Cliff R may still sell TSP converters. http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...rchid=15294523 Last edited by tc; 08-27-2021 at 08:31 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to tc For This Useful Post: | ||
#63
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I took the liberty of some editing, and removed some off-topic responses to streamline the discussion. Hopefully it make it easier for Mike to get answers to his questions.
Last edited by Stuart; 08-28-2021 at 10:03 AM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Stuart For This Useful Post: | ||
#64
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Thank You Stuart.
Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#65
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As for the converter, my guess is that the company does not want to sell a converter that stalls higher than highway cruise rpm, to not have any complaints. You may have to spend more $$$ for a better converter with a higher stall than cruise rpm's. Also, you stated that at 80 mph, your tach reads 3000 rpm's. I would think the engine would be at 2600-2700. I think your tach may be incorrect. Try this calculator: .http://www.wallaceracing.com/calc-gear-tire-rpm-mph.php |
#66
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Thank You for your recent edits I am doing my best English is my worst subject
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#67
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#68
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Overdrive lowers RPM's. Underdrive (for quicker taking off) raises RPM's Clay |
#69
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If you have a good trans cool it really doesn't matter what you cruise rpm is vs the stall.
Heck we towed our 65GTO with our 69GP fow years with a 3800stall converter cruising down the high at 3200-3300. Never had a single issue with the converter or trans. But we did have the largest cooler we could find on it. |
#70
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'70 TA / 505 cid / same engine but revised ( previous best 10.63 at 127.05 ) Old information here: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0712p...tiac-trans-am/ Sponsor of the world's fastest Pontiac powered Ford Fairmont (engine) 5.14 at 140 mph (1/8 mile) , true 10.5 tire, stock type suspension https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDoJnIP3HgE |
#71
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If this is the way you are using the Gear Vendors, then turn on the autoshift/press button and see how the car accelerates from a stop.
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#72
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Since I installed the "041" cam and ran in manual shift from first to second to third revving out the rpm to under 5000 rpm the vehicle accelerated in a linear constant steady increase in speed ,the kick down did not engage and the secondaries were hardly felt. When I used the Gear vendors the same way but splitting gears I was able to revv each extra gear better but it was just as linear as before. The "041" gives me a top end above 130 while the former cam # 524886 was made for Tri-power( specifically or so I red) and It was the only cam to be designated such. The cam # 524886 would go from a rolling say 60 mph, floor it at 90 mph, throw me back in the seat and reach 120 and then move linear to 130 and that is it.Why was the cam # 524886 designated Tri-power only in the Pontiac records. Think about it , those engineers new and Tested over and over to come to that conclusion. I also red that the Armasteel crank is better than the forged crank because of the twist it can take with out breaking that the forged crank can't take.
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#73
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I am using the heat exchanger in the radiator first then an air cooled secondary one in the front air stream. I just installed a remote Trans. filter for extra filtration of Trans fluid. I have a Temperature gauge installed, I run at 160-180 degrees F . I installed that and the Gear Vendors computer in the arm rest glove box of my 1979 Pontiac TA. The oil filter is also remote and travels through the donut adapter too several additional air coolers. and I use two 3/4" cooper tubes about 2' long under the front air dam area to assist through( convection to air) inline routing back to the engine. Motor temperature is 170-180 and goes up while running the a/c. I installed a heavy duty temperature activated clutch fan for a truck and that helped along with a special thermostat drilled with three by pass holes. The Power steering uses a small cooler and a filter.
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#74
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My van has a cooler on it for towing my car hauler or Boat and the RV came with one also.
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#75
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Nice parts I downloaded the site for the future , thank you .
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#76
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#77
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Administrator: I had in the 90 plus posts in this forum post. You shut down the Thread and now I am missing about 15 posts . Are you able to post them back, so I can continue this thread please? . Michael. Otherwise ,This concludes this thread if any one was still interested.
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#78
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The solution to your problem is to change the cam. If you don't want to do that, then install Rhoads lifters - they will make a BIG difference. Good luck with any other band-aid approach.
And yes, you should degree the cam and get the ICL as close as possible to where the manufacturer recommends it. Advancing it may just lose you power, not necessarily shift the powerband the way you want.
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---------------------------- '72 Formula 400 Lucerne Blue, Blue Deluxe interior - My first car! '73 Firebird 350/4-speed Black on Black, mix & match. |
#79
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The solution to your problem is to change the cam. If you don't want to do that, then install Rhoads lifters - they will make a BIG difference. Good luck with any other band-aid approach.
And yes, you should degree the cam and get the ICL as close as possible to where the manufacturer recommends it. Advancing it may just lose you power, not necessarily shift the power band the way you want. Mikes answer to this statement: I decided that after speaking to some people at least two said the gain in power for a street driven car like this is not worth the noise created by the Rhoads lifters. We all want more but I would rather listen to the rumble the motor makes now . I was told I will loose some of the throaty sound as well using Rhoads lifters. I am painting the motor and rebuilding the wire harness and giving the motor compartment a make over. I must get the Torque converter into this vehicle as that I demolished it going over a bump in a drive way that could not have been avoided. I have spent the last 4 months learning about Transmission in stead of running out to buy one and luckily I learned that it was the Torque converter. Most might have listened to others but not me . I won't throw out 2-3 grand out the window. I used to be a parts changer , not any more. As usually you and others are correct and degreeing the cam is the way to go. I went from 8 degrees and backed it off to 6 degrees at the crank. I should be at the 109 some one told me who tested these numbers on the track . The forum member has the" 041 " cam in a 428 ci motor as well. Once I see this Transmission and new Torque converter operating then I can make the decision to go back to the former cam . First thing first is to make sure I have no other problems. I usually make one move at a time so I no what fixes something. Now the trans. is apart the timing chain and gear just went back in. I put a new B+M shift kit in the valve body. Cleaned the valve body and this is all new to me . Adjusted the bands with shims in the TH 400. Cleaned out the small screen to the Governor plus pulled it and inspected it and it was fine. Replaced the Vacuum Modulator. Replaced the trans filter, added 3 bottles of trans fix it and ran 4 gallons of fluid through the Trans. and old TC. Ran 300 miles testing and tuning until the vehicle stopped completely. Then I pulled the TC , had no choice. Learned A TON OF KNOWLEDGE ALONG THE WAY . THE MOTOR AND THIS ENTIRE PROJECT HAS BEEN 3 STEPS FORWARD AND 2 STEPS BACK. ALL THE WORK IS DONE BY MY ROOMMATE AND SINCE I AM DISABLED I DO ALL THE RESEARCH. Most likely I will revert to a cam similar to the original but for now I want to see this vehicle roll on its own. Just prier to the damage to the TC the trans . started to hunt from first to second then to third. over the next month it happened a little more frequently. The cleaning should have solved that issue. When I bought this car it had never been run . The trans. needed a filter change 3 times and took two years before it cleaned itself out and ran great for 5 years now. Had I not ran over the root under a paved drive way this Trans. would work good. I have a curve kit to install yet and I am using a MSD with a 5k limiter we installed as not to over rev. the engine. I have never degreed this cam but when I change to another cam I will purchase the equipment. The only thing I can ask is this . Am I safe to start this motor with the small advance I made or am I just not possibly going to obtain lightning warp speed? |
#80
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I am degreeing this exact cam in my 455 right now. Melling CP 8 Trying to get to Cliff's 109. It has 113.5 out of the box, straight up. Well MINE does. Doesn't mean yours will. 112 is spec, So it's close. I made a key, Closest I can get with the key blanks I have here is 103. I am running a gear drive with no extra keyways. Kinda sux but I like the noise. Not sure how much I'll notice those 4 other degrees. 470cid, 10.6:1 comp, crower cam saver lifters. I Have run Rhoads lots in past, but I prefer the lope. When it's hot and the oil thins, and the idle goes silky smooth, Yuck LOL
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