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#41
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All the retro-fit link bar HR lifters I've seen can't be took apart.
Lifters get built before the link-bar gets installed. The bradded rivet holding the bar wont let the guts slide out. Clay |
#42
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If they don't free up from being soaked in gas, what can I do? Is my only option to replace them?
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#43
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Hadn't thought about the link bar ubstructing the internal bits. Hmm, that's unfortuante.
Jonsey, if you end up needing to replace, I would honestly consider a set of the Johnson's that Butler has (I'm assuming they are still in stock). I've not had performance or reliability issues with my Lunati branded Morels, but they're noisy as hell. You would have to likely get new pushrods as the seat height is different, but now is a good time to do that with the engine torn apart anyhow.
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#44
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I've always left the measuring of pushrods to the engine builder. I'll have to read up on that.
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#45
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Just curious what type of head gaskets delaminated like that and left all the crap stuck on the heads when you removed them? I've always used FelPro and they come off cleanly.
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Triple Black 1971 GTO |
#46
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Quote:
Good video to watch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5is9BsH5OU |
#47
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Which is why I don't use Victor or the Butler head gaskets. Good gaskets, but it requires a lot of time with a razorblade when it's time to clean up after them.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
#48
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Thanks for the video tip Chuckles.
Yes, they are the Butler head gaskets. It wasn't a big deal to clean off the head surface. Directions on the gasket say metal part should face the block, except when the block is o-ringed, which this one is. Guess the builder didn't read those directions? The lifters aren't loosening up. I still have several plungers with no movement. Will call Monday to see what they recommend. I see the Johnson's lifters still listed on their site, so I will ask about that. Going to lap the two exhaust valves on the cylinders that had no compression. Cliff's test showed a bit of leakage. |
#49
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If those valves show leakage then normal lapping may not get things right.
First you want to confirm that both of those valves are straight by chucking them lightly in a drill, as even new valves are sometimes not dead on! If they pass that test then make a sleeve from a section of a Aluminum can you go around the valve stem like 340 degrees. This is so you can lube the guide, put some fine grinding compound and the valve and then load it into the head. Next load the top of the valve into the drill and make the chuck tight enough so when you power the drill you can pull on it and touch up those seats. Of course make sure that the drill chuck jaws only clamp down on the aluminum sleeve. If things are not too far out of wack then about 2 minutes of this should have things sealing up nice, if not then it’s machine shop time!
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#50
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Quick update:
Checked the valves per steve's method, they looked good. Reinstalled the head. Called Butler, they suggested the Hylift Johnson lifters. They advised I would probably need new pushrods based on the shorter seat height. Installed new lifters, used Chuckie's video to measure for pushrod length. The length turned out to be the same as what I have. I measured several times to be sure. Comparing the pushrod installed in each lifter side by side, the Lunatis are taller by about .38". To be sure, I marked the top of the valve with a sharpie, installed the old pushrod on the new lifter, adjusted to 1/4 turn preload, and turned the engine over a few times. The witness mark on the top of the valve looks just like the pictures I see in the how-to guides. I think I'll put it back together this weekend and see how it runs. |
#51
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I would not put the valley pan nor the intake back on until you confirm you now have compression as you should in those cylinders.
Be sure to keep the lower 3/4s of the intake ports taped off so no crap can fall in them until you do plop the intake on.
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#52
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Not to tell you what to do, but make sure to prime the oil in the engine before starting. You can also manually turn it over in segments to do the priming. I ran these Hylift Johnson lifters in one engine. They are still going strong after many miles. If I remember correctly setting the lash was very specific. I used a dial indicator to get them exactly where needed. I used the short travel lifters. [url]https://johnsonlifters.com/Products/HydraulicRollerLifters/ST2112OPR.aspx#312814-application[/url
There is also talk of using proper oil weight in engines with roller lifters. I was told not to use anything higher than 10w-40 weight oils. I ran Amsoil with no issues. |
#53
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Steve, I agree, the intake won't go on until all the rockers are on, adjusted, and each cylinder is showing compression.
chuckies, I wouldn't be posting here if I didn't want people's advice. The lifters didn't come with any instructions on how to adjust the valves. The plungers don't have much movement, so I was going to start with an 1/8 turn past 0 lash. Do you think it's safe to build oil pressure just by cranking? I could pull the distributer and spin the pump if I had to. I have the oil priming tool around here somewhere from when I first started the engine. |
#54
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If your going to prime thru the dist,turn it 90 degrees 8 times after priming,you should have oil up to the all rockers by the.Tom
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#55
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What Tom says. I would prime it first. You can always turn it over with starter after for a bit if you want. Easy to do with spark plugs out
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#56
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Got the engine back together a couple weeks back.
We tested all the new lifters before installation. Interestingly, they had some variation in how far the plunger would travel. Before installing the intake, we tested for compression in each cylinder after adjusting the valves. We pulled the distributer and primed the oil pump as well. Runs much better. 15" of vacuum at idle now instead of 9. A ton more power, smooth idle, and no popping on acceleration. Thanks for all the advice. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Jonsey For This Useful Post: | ||
#57
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Good to hear
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
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