[Hooter]

Originally Posted by Rob B

What's the difference between the 2 classes?? (to lazy to go look on the webpage..at least I'm honest)

Street Race has more rules as far as the car being more stock and the amount of fiberglass allowed. The Super Street class is more liberal with what you can do to the car, but has actually been slower than the Street Race class.

[Rob B]

Originally Posted by Hooter

Street Race has more rules as far as the car being more stock and the amount of fiberglass allowed. The Super Street class is more liberal with what you can do to the car, but has actually been slower than the Street Race class.

Hmmm. Since there is no fiberglass on either of the cars, that won't be an issue... Roughly how many cars are in each class? I have a bunch of work to do to her car and might switch heads on it to wake it up a little. Would like to have it running low low 11's before we do this.

[firechickenman]

Originally Posted by Rob B

Hmmm. Since there is no fiberglass on either of the cars, that won't be an issue... Roughly how many cars are in each class? I have a bunch of work to do to her car and might switch heads on it to wake it up a little. Would like to have it running low low 11's before we do this.

Here's a link to last year's final results. You should be able to download it and open as a PDF.

http://www.hotrod.com/events/hot-rod...results-final/

[Rob B]

Thanks for the link!

[goatless]

So what is the "official" list of PY members going to Drag Week?

I'm not technically registered yet, but I'm #5 on the wait list…

Gonna get my '70 T-37 done- will still be stock appearing. Hoping for real low 12s- maybe high 11s out of it. Might try running the G70 white walls- will bring drag radials if the track won't hook.

[Hooter]

You might double check the rules Jeremy, but I think all cars will be required to run either cheater type slicks or slicks at the track. New rule for this year IIRC. I think some of the real fast guys were having issues following guys with regular street tires dragging water onto the track.

[Rob B]

Gonna have to start picking a couple of you guys brains on which water pump to switch to and radiator. Currently have an aluminum 1" 2 tube in her car with a meziere electric pump which is fine at the track, and we can take it for a drive with temps fluctuating between 190-210 but not for long drives. Usually 5-10 mile trips. Want to go to a mechanical pump and a big 3 row aluminum to keep the tempts around 180-195 rather its moving or sitting still in traffic. What are you guys using?
I do think I'm going with the Northern Radiator extreme HP radiator with 3 1" tubes. Want as much capacity and cooling as possible.

[goatmanmitch]

Originally Posted by goatless

Gonna get my '70 T-37 done- will still be stock appearing. Hoping for real low 12s- maybe high 11s out of it. Might try running the G70 white walls- will bring drag radials if the track won't hook.

I would really like to see our 70's racing an event together, time to get the lead out!

[TheSilverBuick]

Originally Posted by Hooter

You might double check the rules Jeremy, but I think all cars will be required to run either cheater type slicks or slicks at the track. New rule for this year IIRC. I think some of the real fast guys were having issues following guys with regular street tires dragging water onto the track.

Yup. To eliminate folks from taking up spots with their F-250's, etc. If you're going to run the car hauler, you'll have to find a race tire for it.

[goatless]

Originally Posted by Hooter

You might double check the rules Jeremy, but I think all cars will be required to run either cheater type slicks or slicks at the track. New rule for this year IIRC. I think some of the real fast guys were having issues following guys with regular street tires dragging water onto the track.

Just looked. You're right. I guess I'll have to break out the white wall drag radials.

[2manyponchos]

Originally Posted by Rob B

Gonna have to start picking a couple of you guys brains on which water pump to switch to and radiator. Currently have an aluminum 1" 2 tube in her car with a meziere electric pump which is fine at the track, and we can take it for a drive with temps fluctuating between 190-210 but not for long drives. Usually 5-10 mile trips. Want to go to a mechanical pump and a big 3 row aluminum to keep the tempts around 180-195 rather its moving or sitting still in traffic. What are you guys using?
I do think I'm going with the Northern Radiator extreme HP radiator with 3 1" tubes. Want as much capacity and cooling as possible.

Sounds like a tech topic for Thursday night's meeting...
I know a cooling system guy

[v869tr6]

Originally Posted by Rob B

Gonna have to start picking a couple of you guys brains on which water pump to switch to and radiator. Currently have an aluminum 1" 2 tube in her car with a meziere electric pump which is fine at the track, and we can take it for a drive with temps fluctuating between 190-210 but not for long drives. Usually 5-10 mile trips. Want to go to a mechanical pump and a big 3 row aluminum to keep the tempts around 180-195 rather its moving or sitting still in traffic. What are you guys using?
I do think I'm going with the Northern Radiator extreme HP radiator with 3 1" tubes. Want as much capacity and cooling as possible.

What really helped my car run cooler was more advance in the timing when cruising and idling, with a carb I went back to a vacuum advance Dist. with EFI you can just set it for more advance at cruise and when idling.

[Hooter]

The Meziere 42 gpm pump wouldn't keep my car cool at sustained highway speeds. I switched to the Flow Kooler with the pretty blue machined impeller. Cools fine now. I'm running the same ol Rodney Red radiator that's been in the car for over 10 years.

[TheSilverBuick]

I run a stock mechanical water pump and a clutch fan with a two row BeCool radiator and have never had a cooling issue on Drag Week (2011, 2012, 2015).

[firechickenman]

Originally Posted by Rob B

Gonna have to start picking a couple of you guys brains on which water pump to switch to and radiator. Currently have an aluminum 1" 2 tube in her car with a meziere electric pump which is fine at the track, and we can take it for a drive with temps fluctuating between 190-210 but not for long drives. Usually 5-10 mile trips. Want to go to a mechanical pump and a big 3 row aluminum to keep the tempts around 180-195 rather its moving or sitting still in traffic. What are you guys using?
I do think I'm going with the Northern Radiator extreme HP radiator with 3 1" tubes. Want as much capacity and cooling as possible.

I'm using the KISS theory on my cooling system and it's working good so far. OE style water pump (stamped impeller even) OE style (Hayden) fan clutch with a 1" 2-row aluminum radiator (ebay special) and factory shroud. On the hottest day last year it got up to 195 running down the interstate at 70+ mph. Otherwise it stayed 180-190. I'm assuming that's the temp the fan clutch kicks in.

I don't want to rely on some specialized cooling system parts (electric pump and fans) that won't be readily available at your local parts store. Also the load on your alternator will be very high running those electric motors continuously. In the event of an alternator failure, you're not going far. With my set-up if I have a belt, I have cooling.

[Rob B]

I had planned on removing the electric pump and going mechanical. Still in the air on the fan, currently have a good electric fan on her car with no shroud right now. Only time its really important is sitting in traffic or stop and go driving. Guess I'm going to have to start experimenting here shortly. The car has 6x heads on it for now so not like it makes a lot of compression or power (or heat) but just might do a head swap sometime this summer if I get everything else done to it I want. Its what the car needs to "wake it up" a little.

[Rob B]

Originally Posted by Hooter

The Meziere 42 gpm pump wouldn't keep my car cool at sustained highway speeds. I switched to the Flow Kooler with the pretty blue machined impeller. Cools fine now. I'm running the same ol Rodney Red radiator that's been in the car for over 10 years.

How big is the radiator? Rough cost of the pump?

[Hooter]

Originally Posted by Rob B

How big is the radiator? Rough cost of the pump?

My radiator is the factory down flow stock replacement. Not sure of the tube sizes. Had it so long forgot. The pump is kinda pricey. Think it was around $150 through Summit?

[MarkZ]

I'm in with my wife. .. Ran and electric fan in 2014 but switching back to stock type fan this year. 3 row Aluminum Radiator ,stock fan shroud, aluminum Water pump.

[firechickenman]

Cool! Another husband/wife Pontiac Drag Week team....seems to be the thing to do these days.