[blueghoast]

Originally Posted by Jeff Kinsler

Lmfao

Quote) And where off.

You beat me to it Jeff. ROLMFAO

GT.

[Blued and Painted]

Will the RA V's fit on the 6000?

[Rob B]

Well went to a different track today to see if what I did helped. The track is a SMALL outlaw track in central Indiana (Brown County Dragway) thats a little scary to be honest, narrow lanes, VERY short shutdown, and grass in the middle!
Things I did to the car:
I moved my shocks (rear) up on the mounts just to make sure they weren't topping out, all is good there. Lowered launch rpm down to 3300 from 3700. Also pulled 2 degrees timing out of the car. Started with a loose setting on the extension, 4 clicks out of 18 and 6 clicks out of 18 on compression. had a total of 3 time runs and just made minor shock adjustments and each time the car reacted to them. Best part was the car was consistent. Started out with a 6.64, then a 6.62, 6.661 in time runs then ran another 6.61 first round. 2nd round Paul (aka PAULATFAST) tried to wipe up the tranny fluid the car in front of me was leaking since the track guy wouldn't, I staged, I spun, then we loaded up and went home.
Taking timing out will kill ET in my car as well as the carb being a little fat for 100+ heat index so even though I wasn't thrilled with ET and 60's both made improvements with shock adjustments.

[grandville455]

Thats good Rob, But U changed so many things, not sure which one really helped you the most? Where was the shock setting last time out, least for reference to this?

[Rob B]

Originally Posted by grandville455

Thats good Rob, But U changed so many things, not sure which one really helped you the most? Where was the shock setting last time out, least for reference to this?

I changed a bunch, I'll admit that. BUT I know taking 2 degrees out of the car will kill around .15 on ET and about .05 in 60'. Also forgot I had a 3700 chip in instead of the 3500 I usually run and a 3300 is what I've used in the summer when day racing in the sun so I put that back in. Those changes were all things I know how the car will normally react to. With it being 93 degrees and humid as chit, I didn't expect personal best ET's or 60's. I just wanted it to be consistent and be able to see the changes made in the numbers on the time slip. Shock settings and making sure they aren't topping out was the biggest change and improvement I think.
The track I went to by far is not that great but they at least make an attempt to do something plus, with how narrow it is, you do go straight.

[Rob B]

Here's a couple videos from yesterday. Also have a couple more I'll try to get up later.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mASXx7M-kg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSiWsXYqOBY

[grandville455]

Completely Understand Rob, I knew you weren't looking for record ET, just some kind of a baseline So other then the timing, and chip, where were the shocks at last time out when u were having issues? It looks better leaving, not crushing sidewall and gets up on the tire pretty quickly! Same Air pressure too? Next time out if it still hooks, either add timing back or up the chip and see what the car does.

[Rob B]

I ended up with just 2 clicks from dead loose on the backs, 3 on the fronts but was adding compression equally. Adding the compression was helping hold the tires longer and not unloading them as fast and probably could have added a little more. This is not a "good" track but it I was able to adjust to it and thats what matters. Running the same 13.5 air pressure. With the MT stiff walls, thats always seemed to be the "sweet spot".

[grandville455]

So U started at 4 On EXT and 6 on comp, then u ended up at 2 on Ext on 8 on comp?
That initial setting above, is that where u were at the last track when spinning? That's what Im trying to figure out ,lol... What about the fronts, where was the setting last track outing compared to the 3 u are at now. I know its monday, but man im confused

[johnta1]

From the QA1 website:

What can I do to prevent my tires from spinning at the drag strip?

It’s important to have traction the entire way down the track when at the drag strip, especially at the starting line. But sometimes, your tires can spin without any traction as soon as you launch. There could be several reasons for this, but taking a look at your shock settings is one of the easiest and best places to start looking when making changes to your car. To help gain traction at launch, we suggest adjusting your rear shocks by turning the extension setting knob counterclockwise to a softer setting. This will allow the shocks to operate with less resistance, meaning there is more downward force applied to the tires, making them plant harder and allowing them to hook-up and gain more traction. On the compression side, we suggest starting with a firmer setting by turning the knob clockwise – this will help make sure your tires stay firmly planted on the ground. It’s always a good idea to inspect the track, especially the starting line, before you race. A bald or poorly prepped starting line requires a softer shock extension setting to gain more traction like mentioned above, and a well prepped starting line means you can run with a stiffer extension setting to give you quicker vehicle reaction times.

I'm with grandville, kind of confused on what you actually did?

[Rob B]

I'm confused 24/7 anymore!
Correct on where I started and where I ended on the backs. The fronts ended up 3 and 7. My front moves pretty easily and the car will do a decent wheelie if the extension is set to loose so right now, its more about adjusting the compression not to slam the front or allow it to unload but I want the softness in the extension to transfer as much weight as possible.
The last track spinfest, I got so out of whack that I honestly don't remember where they exactly were out, but somewhere in the area where they are now with not as much stagger between the 2 settings. But one thing I think I learned is when you take away from one, add to the other, you want that compression to hold the tires down if your soft on the extension.
For example: Yesterday my first pass, Paul was watching and said the car carried the front tires about 10-15' about 6-8" before it came down/unloads so made an adjustment. Even though the 60' only improved .02, the car carried around 20' around 6" or less.

[grandville455]

See was that so hard ..... Thank you
I'm Trying a brand new set of Phoenix 28.5x9 with my 10" rim and tubes, 91 1/2 Rollout, 15 psi
this sunday! Should be interesting.

[Rob B]

Originally Posted by grandville455

See was that so hard ..... Thank you
I'm Trying a brand new set of Phoenix 28.5x9 with my 10" rim and tubes, 91 1/2 Rollout, 15 psi
this sunday! Should be interesting.

Funny you mention that. I currently run 29.5x10.5x15 MT Stiffwalls without tubes. looking to see what other tire that's out there that would work within the size I want. I've used stiffwalls without tubes for over 10 years in the 9" tire so went with them again when I mini tubbed the car in the 10.5 size last year. The 3062W is actually and 11" tread pattern and would fit perfect but not a stiffwall like I currently have. Haven't run tubes since I switched years ago so now thinking about trying the W tire with tubes this time to compensate for not having the stiffwalls anymore. Decisions....
10"rim with a 9" tire will be interesting!

[J.C.you]

Originally Posted by grandville455

See was that so hard ..... Thank you
I'm Trying a brand new set of Phoenix 28.5x9 with my 10" rim and tubes, 91 1/2 Rollout, 15 psi
this sunday! Should be interesting.

didn't like the phoenix set I had.

[Probird]

Originally Posted by J.C.you

didn't like the phoenix set I had.

I tried them once too. They were ok but I wasn't a big fan either.
.

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by Rob B

10"rim with a 9" tire will be interesting!

Seen this on the web when searching about wider rim/ narrower tire.. The one pic looks tight, but i have a 1" clearance in front and back of tire.

"on a heavy car a wider rim works better,a ten inch rim with a 9in tire will be faster and will hook just as good if not better.I used to run a 29.5 10.5 mickey on a 8in rim and hated it went back to a 30x9 on a 10in rim and was much happier car was much faster and stable"

[slowbird]

Originally Posted by grandville455

Seen this on the web when searching about wider rim/ narrower tire.. The one pic looks tight, but i have a 1" clearance in front and back of tire.

"on a heavy car a wider rim works better,a ten inch rim with a 9in tire will be faster and will hook just as good if not better.I used to run a 29.5 10.5 mickey on a 8in rim and hated it went back to a 30x9 on a 10in rim and was much happier car was much faster and stable"

That is a bad example, why run a 10.5 tire on an 8" rim then run a 9" tire on a 10" rim? Why not run the 10.5 tire on the 10" rim? Ya the 10.5 on a 8" rim will be unstable rim is too narrow!
Darby what tire have you been running, 29.5x10.5?

[Rob B]

I run the 29.5x10.5x15 MT on a 10" rim and its super stable on my car. I also ran (and now run them on the wife's car) the same tire but in the 9" width on an 8" rim and that another super stable combo. You could drive both cars one handed down track. I've tried a 10" tire on an 8" rim years ago and didn't like the footprint it put down or how it handled on the big end.
I would think having a 9" tire on a 10" rim would put undue stress on the sidewalls.

[grandville455]

I was running the hoosier 29x10 on my 10" rim no tubes, I talked to the hoosier tech too, and he said the 10.5 guys are using 12"-14" rims on those tires, and their more stable on the big end and the sidewall is a tad stiffer.

That above statement is just something i stumbled across, dont take it as gospel

Seen this on a site also..
The slightly narrower tire on a wider wheel bites better. The shootout boys that are limited by class rules put 10.5 tires on 12" or 14" rims. Some of those cars go 1.0-1.1 second sixty foot times. Look at what Bob West's big Chevelle does on the 9" slicks.

[455firebird1969]

I know you just did a lot of work on your car and probably checked this, but are you using the OEM front leaf spring mounts? If so are the leaf mount holes round? Between the the bolts that mount the front spring eye and these holes wearing you might have some slop that is making it inconsistent.