[61 vent]

I am getting ready to start cleaning some ground straps, I have found 4 so far just in the engine compartment, 2 each at the back of each head and 2 each from each upper control arm to the head. Does anyone have an idea of how many more there may be from the body to the frame and where? Thanks

[wfbarto]

Originally Posted by 61 vent

I am getting ready to start cleaning some ground straps, I have found 4 so far just in the engine compartment, 2 each at the back of each head and 2 each from each upper control arm to the head. Does anyone have an idea of how many more there may be from the body to the frame and where? Thanks

Not sure how similar a '62 is to a '66 B-body as far as ground straps are concerned but here is a "copy and paste" of an e-mail I got from Bruce (D'head) a few years ago on the location of the straps on a 66 car:

I checked on the Gnd straps:

Pass side:

1) to top of frame to fender well in front by A/C stuff

2) From headbolt with nut on it to frame/top of control arm

3) From rear of head to firewall

4) then there is one on the same bolt on the control arm that goes towards the outside of the car to a location I can not see.

Drivers side:

1) Back of head to firewall

2) Headbolt w/ nut to top of frame/control arm

I looked on a couple of cars and did not see anything going to the fenderwell or elsewhere on the driver's side. Seems like there would be another there, but the battery is there connecting to the block, so maybe that is why not.

Hope this helps.

Bruce

[Engine-Ear]

I would also look for a ground strap between the front fender (bottom rear bolt) and either the body or the frame.

[61 vent]

Thanks I will look for some of the additional ones this afternoon.

[61 vent]

How would I check to see if my coil is bad? I checked it for continuity, and it checked good, I was by myself and I could not see clearly if I had spark. I do have fuel and the timing should be pretty close but, I am not getting a cough or sputter.

[Old Goat 67]

This is not gospel, but I check mine by hooking 12V to the positive and run a wire from the negative side up and down a grounded coarse file. With a spark plug hooked up to the tower lead, or better yet a gap tester, it tells you go or no-go.

Charles

[61 vent]

I swapped out the coil and no help, so in the am I will start to look at the points, I did buy a new set today. I am going to return the coil since it will not fit into the factory bracket.

[61 vent]

I was able to get it to almost run, it coughed and sputtered a bit, I think it was getting too much fuel, I am going to let it dry out over night and try it with just the starter fluid in the morning. I changed out all the plugs and wires, replaced the cap, cleaned the points and rotor, verified the spark was at 6 deg BTDC adjusted the dwell (only while it was cranking not running) My buddy feels that the engine is cranking over to slowly, but even after hooking up 2 batteries it still cranks at about the same speed, but it did help a little.

[Engine-Ear]

Originally Posted by 61 vent

...I changed out all the plugs and wires, replaced the cap, cleaned the points and rotor, verified the spark was at 6 deg BTDC adjusted the dwell (only while it was cranking not running) ... My buddy feels that the engine is cranking over to slowly, but even after hooking up 2 batteries it still cranks at about the same speed, but it did help a little.

From my experience, a non-stuck / non-rusty-cylinders 389 should fire up within 1/2 of an engine revolution if fuel and spark are dialed in, even if it's spinning slower than it should.

...how long has it been since the engine was last run on a regular basis?

[61 vent]

last time it was alive was around 1982, from what we can figure out.

[Engine-Ear]

Originally Posted by 61 vent

last time it was alive was around 1982, from what we can figure out.

...ah. Kinda what I figured. You may have a rusty cylinder (or several) from a motor that had been sitting (cylinders with partially-open valves).

If you haven't yet, you may want to spray all cylinders with a generous shot of PB Blaster or Kroil and work the motor by hand (via the screw that holds the balancer to the crank) or use the starter.

Also if you haven't done so yet, I would disassemble the starter... give it a good cleanup, including turning the armature commutator, new brushes, bushings and solenoid.

[61 vent]

I am trying to get this engine going, with as little as possible. If the engine turns out to be bad than I will replace it with a later model that has the starter mounted to the block, and run a 700r4. If the engine is good I will still run a 700r4 but will have to run the more expensive adapter plate that mount the starter to it. Once I get the engine part all figured out than I will not mind spending the time and the money to fix it up right. I have sprayed the cylinders down already with the PB buster, and we have been turning it over enough that the oil light will go out during cranking. I believe you are correct that I need to rebuild the starter, the engine cranks at about half the speed you would expect it too. The inside of the intake looked like brand new no rust or anything when I removed the original carb. I think the problem is the carb. I was given a carb, that I was told was in working condition but it is a later model AFB, and we are using the old base plate gasket. We almost had it running and then the starter solenoid started to act up. I am letting everything dry out this week and I will attempt to start it again next weekend with the starting fluid only, and see if there is a difference. I think the carb had everything flooded out and that was the major cause of the not starting. Thank you for all of your insights, I have read all of them and tried to apply them to my situation.

[Deadhead]

Originally Posted by 61 vent

I was able to get it to almost run, it coughed and sputtered a bit, I think it was getting too much fuel, I am going to let it dry out over night and try it with just the starter fluid in the morning. I changed out all the plugs and wires, replaced the cap, cleaned the points and rotor, verified the spark was at 6 deg BTDC adjusted the dwell (only while it was cranking not running) My buddy feels that the engine is cranking over to slowly, but even after hooking up 2 batteries it still cranks at about the same speed, but it did help a little.

Be aware that IME you will have to adjust timing immediately to get it to run with the factory shop manual setting. I have no idea where they get this setting, but my cars will barely run at this setting.

[61 vent]

I am trying to get things going with the factory settings, 6 deg BTDC and 28-30 for dwell. I set the crank to 6 deg BTDC, I had the #1 plug out and connected to the wire, I then turned the distributor until it sparked, and left it. Prior to this I adjusted the dwell while cranking the engine over to 28-29.

[Engine-Ear]

Originally Posted by 61 vent

I set the crank to 6 deg BTDC, I had the #1 plug out and connected to the wire, I then turned the distributor until it sparked, and left it.

Side question: Your timing cover is the 'pointer' style (not the numeric index style), right? I agree with Deadhead that the ignition may be retarded.

Originally Posted by 61 vent

Prior to this I adjusted the dwell while cranking the engine over to 28-29.

Never tried that - Will you get an accurate dwell setting at cranking speed using a dwell meter?

[Deadhead]

Matchbook cover thickness on the points would be a very known and acceptable starting point.

[61 vent]

Yes the timing cover is of the pointer style and the points are .020 gap with a feeler gauge. The harmonic balancer only has 2 lines on it.

[61 vent]

Today I adjusted the gap to .029 with the feeler gage and advanced the timing a little more, I was able to get it to cough and sputter a little. I feel that the timing is good and the spark is good, I think it is all in the fuel delivery at this point. I am rebuilding my original carb, and this one I am using is a loaner, that I was told was a good carb for what I wanted to do, to get the engine running. Any thoughts? I am willing to try anything. Oh and starting fluid has no help with this, I thought it should fire right off with starting fluid but I was incorrect. Is carb and choke cleaner any better to use over starting fluid or are they both about the same. Thanks again for everyones help. Andy in Tucson

[66bonne]

Originally Posted by 61 vent

I will head down to the model shop when I can, My step dad had open heart surgery today, so it might be a week or so. When I use this do I remove the connector and apply it? or apply it to the connector and receptacle while connected to each other?Thanks again guys for all of your wisdom.

How's your step dad doing ? I'm a member of the "Zipper" club so he has my empathy and sympathy.
Best to both of you.

Jim

[61 vent]

He is doing great, he did not get the zipper, but good old super glue. It is still amazing to me that on a Monday you can have a triple bypass and on Thursday walk out the door and go home. Thanks for asking.