[BruceWilkie]

Originally Posted by oethel

Thinking I need to cut flange for expansion.what do y'all think? Also do I need flex couplings or bellows on both hot pipes to the turbo?I'm looking at the Vibrant brand couplings and or bellows.want to header wrap all of the hot side and need a recommendation on that as well.

DONT cut the header flange! Instead slightly elongate(fore/aft) bolt holes for center 2 bolts...next 2 bolt holes outboard from there elongate a bit more and finally the 2 outboard bolt holes elongate a bit more than the previous 2.
Direction of elongation should be away from tubes!
This will allow for expansion and help keep headers sealed

V-band joints..pipe exit side should protrude 3/16" and entrance side of joining pipe should be recessed 5/16". This isnt just for a pilot! It allows for expansion without stressing the clamp excessively AND the protruding piece will expand inside the receiving flange more than than the flange around it and greatly improve seal...
(if pipes actually butted up against each other expansion will lead to cracked flanges or broken welds. If butted flush at flange, expansion will stretch v-band and likely leak)


Toms suggestions on heat wrap... consider it a warning of sorts. Sheilds are a better alternative!

IF heat wrap on your primary hot side actually helps boost response your pipes are likely way too big!
Yours arent too big!

Turbine sheilds are easy to make... from a stainless tea pot or other similar shape.... Walmart and/or dollar stores or even Goodwill stores for cheap shiny stainless pots or other items that could be used to make other sheilding.

[Tom Vaught]

Bruce, we typically used one "Master Hole" at the center of the head exhaust ports, (in the case of the Pontiac one of the two center exhaust port bolt holes). This fastener had minimal clearance around it. Then as you posted, the expansion slots in the flange for the other fasteners were slotted with more room outward of the fastener. We used a .060" growth dimension for each step. Center fastener slight clearance around fastener, next two fastener positions (bolt diameter + .060" sideways outward), then next two fasteners (bolt diameter + .120" sideways outward), all allowing for flange growth. DO NOT SPLIT THE FLANGES, SLOT THE FLANGES , (as Bruce posted).

The flanges were always a minimum of 3/8" material and in some cases up to 1/2" thick
flange material. The fasteners were always stainless. The carbon fasteners failed easily on the dyno under our 6 hours at WOT type duty cycle testing. This is high load/rpm ocean offshore boat type test conditions.

Stainess fasteners cost more but would live a long time in a dry land vehicle type environment.

Tom V.

[oethel]

I'm not understanding this new format on this site.seems a whole lot harder to get around on here.got more parts and getting close on finishing the mock up

[oethel]

More pics

[oethel]

More pics

[JSPONT]

Nice progress, looks good!

Go down to the bottom of the page and you can change back to the old format. There is a drop down on the very bottom left side.

[guidos]

Great pictures, and build, It will help me when I go from a procharger to a single turbo. I was going to buy a Chevy weld up header kit, and modify much like you did..looks great, thanks for posting!

[v869tr6]

That carb looks awesome, looks like the piping is fitting in nicely.

[Tom Vaught]

Very Nice Work on the Package, especially with the header type parts vs the cast iron manifolds. 70bird has run a single turbo in that basic location for years with excellent results.

Got some pics of your frame turbo mount design?

Tom V.

[charlie66]

what size primary's are your headers made with?

[charlie66]

what was needed to do to get the runner height's to match up with the victor an the iron heads? I know there quite a bit higher on the victor..

[oethel]

Charlie the headers are 1 5/8 tubes into 2 1/2 collectors,sent the whole engine to a sprint car engine builder close to me.he cut on intake and fitted until it matched up.said he cut about a 1/4 inch off both sides and I believe him.it's a lot thinner now.had to elongate all the bolt holes too.made the mistake of leaving the crossover on it during the process.it did not line up with anything and could not be manipulated to work.cut the original cast iron intake crossover to this engine off and installed.think there"a a pic of it in this thread.if you look in that same pic the valley pan is notched for intake clearance.it was very close.couldn't notch anymore or it wouldn't have sealed and the intake went right down to it.I have two videos of this thing running on engine stand.one with mufflers and one open headers.maybe later I'll try to upload to video section.going to plant the garden today.

[oethel]

Did the turbo mount this week.used a piece of 4 inch angle to sandwich in between the turbo and stainless T6 flange.took 3 inches off one side of the angle.took pieces of 3/8 by 1 inch flat stock and made the bracketry from cyl head.used the a/c bracket holes and outside lower bolt hole on the front of head.don't know if anybody has tried this approach before.hope it works.got a small GM alt and looks like I can clock it differently,make another bracket and it'll work.going to use small compact power steering pump with separate reservoir on the other side of engine.

[BruceWilkie]

I pirated a remote reservoir pump, remote tank, and hydroboost for brake assist from a 92 Astro van v6. Pump bolts to Pontiac brackets and uses newer style press fit type pulley. Reservoir was mounted on the firewall

I've adapted some Ford pulleys and tensioners to convert to serpentine. Using the small 105 amp altenator from the v6 that was originally in my 90 'bird. Same size the Astro had but different bolt pattern.

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by oethel

Charlie the headers are 1 5/8 tubes into 2 1/2 collectors,sent the whole engine to a sprint car engine builder close to me.he cut on intake and fitted until it matched up.said he cut about a 1/4 inch off both sides and I believe him.it's a lot thinner now.had to elongate all the bolt holes too.made the mistake of leaving the crossover on it during the process.it did not line up with anything and could not be manipulated to work.cut the original cast iron intake crossover to this engine off and installed.think there"a a pic of it in this thread.if you look in that same pic the valley pan is notched for intake clearance.it was very close.couldn't notch anymore or it wouldn't have sealed and the intake went right down to it.I have two videos of this thing running on engine stand.one with mufflers and one open headers.maybe later I'll try to upload to video section.going to plant the garden today.

Thank you .

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by oethel

Did the turbo mount this week.used a piece of 4 inch angle to sandwich in between the turbo and stainless T6 flange.took 3 inches off one side of the angle.took pieces of 3/8 by 1 inch flat stock and made the bracketry from cyl head.used the a/c bracket holes and outside lower bolt hole on the front of head.don't know if anybody has tried this approach before.hope it works.got a small GM alt and looks like I can clock it differently,make another bracket and it'll work.going to use small compact power steering pump with separate reservoir on the other side of engine.

I like that you bolted it to the motor. Looks good. But how accessible is your plug? Looks tough to get at....

[BruceWilkie]

Originally Posted by BruceWilkie

I pirated a remote reservoir pump, remote tank, and hydroboost for brake assist from a 92 Astro van v6. Pump bolts to Pontiac brackets and uses newer style press fit type pulley. Reservoir was mounted on the firewall

I've adapted some Ford pulleys and tensioners to convert to serpentine. Using the small 105 amp altenator from the v6 that was originally in my 90 'bird. Same size the Astro had but different bolt pattern.

Heres a link to my serpentine setup.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...st.php?p=56677

I'm going to revise it some now that I have the remote pump.

[RUDOLFSSON]

Nice project !

[oethel]

I'm back on my project and hope to get done in the next 3 or 4 months.the honey do's are over for now.still mocking up some stuff and have some questions.can I install my Wastegate to one bank like in the pic or do I need to be hooked to both.can I get by with a heat shield to keep Wastegate diaphragm heat under control from the turbine housing.got me a vacuum pump and I have a regulator for it.can I hook the suction side of this to where my pcv valve would be in the valley pan.or just in a valve cover.do I need a vent in a valve cover for it.what kind of vacuum numbers should I be shooting for.

[charlie66]

If it was me , I would create a Y so you're picking up the flow/pressure from both banks for the waste gate.. Even though you're releasing pressure you're still get full force from the passenger side into the divided flange directly on the wheel... You can try it and see , but if you get creep then Y it to the gate .... Maybe Tom V will chime in and set us straight on this.....

I don't think you need a heat shield . There made to withstand heat..

I would put it in the valve cover with no vent ... Having a vent is the same as when you get a hole in a straw . The suction goes away ...

LOOKING GOOD!