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#41
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Technically, yeah, they're manifolds... but everybody
makes the distinction of factory headers because they most certainly are not bread-and-butter manifolds. These 67+ manifolds, when installed on the assembly line, were accompanied by some changes. Headpipes (3 bolt flanges vs 2), brake line to right front wheel, and last but not least, wiring. Look at the link in my previous post, it was meant to steer you in the right direction. It just happens to be the guide tube that goes on the motor mount. |
#42
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Quote:
When using the RA manifolds the factory routed the cable down the front of the block and through a different style of tube that mounted horizontally to the engine mount and then to the starter.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
The Following User Says Thank You to Greg Reid For This Useful Post: | ||
#43
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Wow! I learn something new everyday. I did not realize I had those exhaust manifolds. Hopefully they are better than stock. It makes more sense now.
I am sure I will have more questions. Thanks FB66 |
#44
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Quote:
would that heatshield work on it? FB66 |
#45
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I'm thinking it would since it attaches to the motor mount but I ran mine that way without the correct tube. I used a heat shield made for large diameter wiring and just laid along the path next to the motor mount to the starter. Got it from Amazon.
You can see it in my photo right below where I moved my standard wire tube.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#46
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The correct way, as Pontiac engineers designed.
Nothing cobbled together here. Factory illustrations showing the route of the wiring, protective tube and solenoid shield used with the large HO/RA exhaust manifolds.
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1) 65 GTO Survivor. 43,440 Original Miles. “Factory” Mayfair Maize Paint with Black Pinstripe, Black Cordova Top, Black Interior, OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Purchased from the Lady that bought it new. Baltimore Built (11A). 2) 66 GTO Survivor. “Factory” Cameo Ivory Paint with Red Pinstripe, Red Interior. OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Tri-Power (OEM Vacuum Linkage), Automatic "YR" code (1759 Produced). Fremont Built (01B), with the Rare 614 Option. |
The Following User Says Thank You to 60sstuff For This Useful Post: | ||
#47
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There you go... that's the way to do it.
Yes, mine's cobbled up but it serves the purpose and I'm good with it for now. I may make myself a RA tube one day. I'm a penny pincher sometimes and at the time I didn't want to spend over $40 for a steel tube a few inches long!
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#48
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Here is a photo of my wiring from my previous project a few years back.
As Greg said the heat tube to protect the wiring is attached to the motor mount |
#49
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I put one of these in a few months ago. Solved the heat soak issue, but now it sounds like an old Chrysler starting up. Tried shimming it with no help. I assume this is how these starters sound??
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#50
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I don't hear anything wrong with the starter as you describe. I just replace them now when heat sink symptoms appear Sent from my SM-X200 using Tapatalk
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#51
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Quote:
Thanks FB66 |
#52
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I final got the negative cable made and installed. Took it for a drive. turned it off and waited a few seconds. Turned the key and it sounded a lot better. I at least started. I will also install 1 gauge cable for the positive and reroute the wire. I believe that the wires are the problem.
Question: Can I get to the wires on the starter without dropping the starter? I really haven't looked yet. Would you replace all the wires to the starter? Can I put the tube heat shield in without pulling the engine? I am using welding cable. The insulation covering the wire is pretty good. Thanks for all your knowledge guys! FB66 |
#53
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I can't imagine getting to the wires without dropping the starter but maybe it could be done. Never had that RA style tube so I don't have an answer there but I would expect that dropping the starter would help on that deal too.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#54
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I never messed with the starter in 23 years of owning the car.
It's new to me. FB66 |
#55
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There would be no way to take the wires on, and off, without lowering the starter. Be sure the battery cables are disconnected before attempting to remove the starter. Really easy to short them out if you forget to disconnect them.
Make sure you have something to rest it on when you lower it as it's fairly heavy. Maybe something like a milk crate to rest it on as you remove the starter wires. They're not long enough to get all the way to the ground so you need to set it on something, then remove them, reverse procedure to reinstall. Make sure you remove, and replace the tin starter shims between the starter, and the block surface when you do it. Start the bolt closest to the engine (inner), then insert the shims before you start the outer bolt. Be sure the wires clear each other before you do the final tightening, you don't want them to cross feed when you reconnect the battery. Also be aware that you're tighening the wires into a plastic cap on the solenoid, overtighening them will crack the plastic cap, tight enough, but not too tight that the cap splits. If the starter has been on the car for 23 years you might want to consider either overhauling it, or replacing it. Likely the bushings are worn out, and the armature is dragging on the fields, causing hot start problems beside the cable routing problems you already know you have. I do my own overhauls because I don't trust most other peoples work to do it properly. I've worked on mostly GM cars for over 50 years as my profession so I have the knowledge to rebuild starters myself. Those are the points I can think of off the top of my head, someone else may have a suggestion that I missed. I hope this helps you out. |
#56
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Sirrotica nailed it.
Don’t forget the milk crate!
__________________
1) 65 GTO Survivor. 43,440 Original Miles. “Factory” Mayfair Maize Paint with Black Pinstripe, Black Cordova Top, Black Interior, OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Purchased from the Lady that bought it new. Baltimore Built (11A). 2) 66 GTO Survivor. “Factory” Cameo Ivory Paint with Red Pinstripe, Red Interior. OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Tri-Power (OEM Vacuum Linkage), Automatic "YR" code (1759 Produced). Fremont Built (01B), with the Rare 614 Option. |
#57
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Quote:
Good stuff! Thanks FB66 |
#58
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There is no need to catch the original starter with your forehead.
Use a threaded rod with a washer and nut in the inner bolt hole and lower the starter and let it hang on it during removal of cables. The factory high torque starter with a slightly shortened solenoid return spring (std on RA and SD starters) and a solenoid heatshield will do the job as intended. FWIW |
The Following User Says Thank You to Kenth For This Useful Post: | ||
#59
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Kenth,
Great idea. I think I know what you are talking about. FB66 |
Reply |
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