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#41
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I do plan on having my hand in the straightening, priming and block sanding portion of things. But not fitting new metal...
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#42
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Wow...A year since I have updated this thread. Time to correct that....
I have been making slow (glacial) progress on this project, with most of my efforts resulting on little discernible change to the vehicle. I had been gathering parts, restoring small items, and researching the car and processes. However, recently this has changed. Finally - after a lot of searching I found a shop that I could trust (and had the time in their schedule) to do some of the body work that was over my head (fitting the new trunk pan, braces, and quarter panel). Prior to going into this shop though - I had to get the body onto a set of body mounts and assemble the front clip correctly so that I could gap the body panels for the placement of the new quarter. This turned out to be pretty straight forward - I lifted the body using two padded floor jacks on the rocker panel and lifting one side then the other. Pulling the front end off also gave me a chance to get a nice picture of the firewall. It appears to be in really nice condition - excepting the two giant holes someone drilled into it. Fitting the panels gaps yielded OK gaps and I was able to eliminate a tall stack of shims on the passenger side fender - once issues with how the core support and been installed were fixed. Off to the shop we go... The shop straightened my damaged wheelhouse... And installed the truck floor/braces (3 piece - Goodmark)... Continued in the next post... |
#43
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The shop also hung the new quarter - unfortunately the salvage quarter I had purchased was too stretched from a previous impact to be used without a lot of straightening. So we ended up using an AMD reproduction.
The results... The next step is to strip off the old primer and have my body man straighten a couple areas of bad body work...Then onto the paint process. It is finally getting to the point where things are getting better instead of having to get worse to get better. Thanks to everyone here for the support and inspiration. |
#44
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Those holes in the firewall look to be from an aftermarket aircondtioning unit. I had to deal with the same thing on my car. Can’t even tell they were ever there now.
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Save yo Confederate money, boys, the South is gonna do it again! Pecosbill |
#45
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I'm excited for you! Just to yank your chain, your last post in this thread was TWO years ago. I know, time flies!
I had to have 4 screw holes welded up where a fuel block got mounted to the firewall plus a hacked out hole where a PO ran the oil line from the sender to the cheapo mechanical underdash gauge. All fixed now. I would have loved a bunch of other colors but was just happy to have a '64 GTO when I got it, originally Pinehurst Green, in red primer when I purchased it. Once the finish color went on, I am ecstatic about it. I think you will really love the Saddle Bronze when you get to see the fresh paint. My own '64 spent about 25 years in Boise before I bought it and drove it straight thru to Chicago, the only time I've ever driven it. Now 25 years (actually 27+) later, I'm hoping to drive it later this year but there are no guarantees. Progress in the past 3 years has been supersonic compared to the first couple decades but I find it hard to be patient whenever we hit a snag and there have been a bunch. I will always regret having waited so long to get it done. Any work done putting the engine together yet? That is the really fun part for me. Keep up the good work. |
#46
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Great project. Taking your time to do the research and getting the body right is worth it. Here's some Saddle Bronze motivation for you.
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'04 GTO Yellow Jacket, A4, Kooks, CAI, etc. '02 Firebird, V6, auto '68 GTO Convertible, HO, 4spd, driver '66 LeMans Hardtop, 400, FI, A/C, 4L80E. '65 GTO Hardtop, next project '64 GTO Hardtop, "389", Tri-power, 5 speed, A/C, Yorktown Blue. http://www.gtoaco.com |
#47
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The quarter panels by AMD cannot be beat. Ask me how I know $$$$$$$$$
__________________
468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#48
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Quote:
Quote:
I have gathered some engine components but haven't started the build yet. I am setting aside the (apparently) original shortblock and will be building a small-journal 4" stroke engine with 64 GTO Tripower top end. Quote:
What brand paint did you use? Were you happy with the color match based on their formula or did you need to tweek it? Quote:
Thanks all for your help and replies. It is good to be making some progress. |
#49
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And, I'll bet if you look at the "hump" in the floorboard over the transmission you'll find another hole where the drain line from the aftermarket AC went.
__________________
Save yo Confederate money, boys, the South is gonna do it again! Pecosbill |
#50
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Pecosbill - You mean like this one?
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#51
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LOL! Bill nailed that one!
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"I know just enough to keep me here, but not enough to get me out" |
#52
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__________________
Save yo Confederate money, boys, the South is gonna do it again! Pecosbill |
#53
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Thanks Pecosbill for solving that mystery for me. Now I'll add fixing the hole in the floor to my to-do list.
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#54
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The Saddle Bronze car in the picture is not mine. It's a club members car painted maybe 20 years ago.
__________________
'04 GTO Yellow Jacket, A4, Kooks, CAI, etc. '02 Firebird, V6, auto '68 GTO Convertible, HO, 4spd, driver '66 LeMans Hardtop, 400, FI, A/C, 4L80E. '65 GTO Hardtop, next project '64 GTO Hardtop, "389", Tri-power, 5 speed, A/C, Yorktown Blue. http://www.gtoaco.com |
#55
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Ron - thanks for the motivation pic. The more I see of the color - the more it grows on me.
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#56
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I have more progress to report....This week I managed to pick-up a pretty nice - albeit weathered deck lid to replace the one on the car. The existing deck lid has the worst bodywork that I have ever personally seen with an area that has been hammered in and filled with over an inch of bone. It could probably be fixed with enough attention from an experienced body shop - but it would be cost prohibitive. The body guy said I did quite well finding this one. He suggested a dip in the acid tank - to remove the surface rust and the remaining paint.
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#57
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Curious what type of acid and how it's neutralized after the dipping? Please post "after the dip" pictures. Thanks! Also PM sent.
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#58
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Good score finding a deck lid. I have been looking for over a year and the only one I found was during a time when I didn’t have the money to buy it. Not because it was expensive so much as that it was gonna cost me a fortune to get it here from Canada
__________________
468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#59
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That acid dip may also take away the putty that is set between the inner and outer deck lid panels. You’ll need to replace it or else listen to a tinny sound every time you close the trunk or hit a bump. Bead blasting might be a safer alternative if you haven’t already dipped it.
__________________
Save yo Confederate money, boys, the South is gonna do it again! Pecosbill |
#60
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DON'T do the chemical dip. The problem dipping things like hoods, doors and trunklids is that regardless of how well it is done, some amount of the chemical will remain trapped in the areas where the sheetmetal is folded over on itself. Eventually this stuff will seep out and damage the newly applied finish from the inside out, especially if you live in a humid area. Bead blasting would be better for such a piece and you need to pick someone who knows what they are doing so they don't warp the metal by going too fast or too aggressively.
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The '64 GTO The '65 Chevelle The '69 Chevy Pickup Project The Brazen Orange 2006 GTO |
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