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  #21  
Old 01-24-2023, 01:41 PM
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His last sentence "even with my fans running non stop 195 is at low as it would go"

Tells me he has a pair of electric fans.

What has changed is anyone's guess until he responds to questions or gives more information, but for sure the Cold Case radiator is more than up to the task.
Something else is amiss.

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Old 01-24-2023, 01:46 PM
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With that said, I saw a similar situation on dad's car that I posted in my old thread about it way back when.

The cold case fans running non stop would only get the engine down to about 190 degrees and basically hit a wall, the fans would not shut off, even when it was running down the road.

It ended up being the shroud itself being a huge restriction.

Once the large open factory mechanical fan shroud was installed with a stock 7 blade clutch fan, leaving the Cold Case radiator in place, the engine won't get above 175, and in cases where ambient temps are below 80 degrees it'll run between 158-162 or so.

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Last edited by Formulajones; 01-24-2023 at 01:52 PM.
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  #23  
Old 01-24-2023, 04:23 PM
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Default Cold case

That post above is what I was referring to.
Basically copied what he had proven.
Gerry

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  #24  
Old 01-24-2023, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 25stevem View Post
I did not have time to post a proper reply earlier.

Your now thicker radiator has placed itself too close to the fan.

You have lost some 10% of the air flow from what you once had due to just this , and this is without even factoring in the added slight restriction of a 4 row rad and there likely smaller ID tubes.

This first thing you need to do is to get the gap between face of the fan and the rad back to what you had with the previous rad.

Ideally the ends of the fan blades should be about half way in and half was out of the rear of the shroud.
THIS^^^. Always, always, always, when working on a car and you change one part and the car acts up.....always suspect that part or its installation. Jumping around to other areas that were fine prior to the replacement of that one part is fools play. I in a million chance. Verify your radiator and installation. Something changed for the worse. If it runs hot going down the freeway where you don't even need a fan, it doesn't have enough cooling capacity for your car.

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Old 01-24-2023, 05:39 PM
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So back with some updates. And sleep. Made this one harder on myself due to the lack of it the last few days and trying to rush things.


Got my ir gun out again as a previous post had mentioned. Did this in the beginning and saw the temp difference from the gauge but chose the incorrect reading. I assumed the ir gun was faulty as it’s nothing special, old and has been kicked around for years. Checked it this am and it’s within 3 degrees. Bottom line I didn’t think this one through very well before I assumed it was parts I had just changed.

I believe it’s the sending unit for the temp gauge. The gauge reads correctly for what the ohm level is in the sending unit but the sending unit ohm level is too high for what the coolant temp should be. My water crossover never gets above 185 as is. Fans cycle on and off as they should so I called nvu for a new sender. Apparently they no longer support it and have switched to a different one years ago. They scavenged the old sender from mercury marine / faria so at least I was able to order them from somewhere. Will update again when I get the new sender. Only “downfall” I can saw with the cold case is the champion had more coolant capacity. But not by a lot.


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