[rememberfireball#22]

Guys the old flex fan that I saved brought the temp back down to where it has been for last 8/10 years. I ordered new clutch from our host and everthing should be like it was before when it gets here and I install it. I want to thank everbody for their help. Very much appreciated. Mike

[dataway]

Easy fix then, good for you. That OEM fan with a new clutch will move a LOT of air.

[MUSLCAH]

I’d go with the Hayden....much better than the Ames one...been there,done that.

[Irvs 68]

My 68 would run hotter, near 210..changed from 87 octane to 93, issue resolved

[68gtoMN]

Guys, there is a FANTASTIC thread on our host's forums about gtos and overheating. With our 1968 cars (factory timing cover only), we have a two piece inner diverter. The same basic fix applies to 69+ cars with the newer 11-bolt cover/pump. In essence, you need to have the diverter plate approximately 1/4 inch from the impeller blades. Anything more than this does not allow proper flow. If yours has more, hit it with a hammer to bend it back or get a new diverter plate.

Check out the first 3 pictures of this thread

[Red Box Rebel]

I have Owned V8 Pontiacs for over 45 years and they always have run hot due to the inherent design of Pontiac blocks using Siamese cylinder walls and cooling.
My first 68 GTO came with a 4 row radiator and a flex fan with no shroud.
I added a shroud and a de-clutching fan and a fifth row to the original radiator.
In NJ in the Winter I always ran 195 degree thermostat. In Texas summers I ran a 180.
Ignition timing is a hidden enemy that is overlooked, so check the advance curve through the RPM range and determine total advance and note the RPM when you reach total advance.

Airflow, thermostat, coolant strength, coolant level, coolant flow, Radiator cap(wrong pressure and/or defective cap will lower boiling point if not enough pressure), radiator condition. All factors to be considered when running hot.

Assuming you are still using a breaker point ignition:
Dwell: 28-32 degrees
Initial timing 9 degrees BTDC, vacuum lines disconnected and covered.

The distributor is advanced by vacuum and by centrifugal force controlled by weights and springs. (Very primitive compared to today's computer controlled engines without distributors) Changing the Size of weights (mass) and spring tension will allow you to customize the advance curve.

I do not think timing and/or lack of advance is the reason you are running hotter than what you believe is normal. It would not hurt however, to be in total control of your advance curve. It will allow the engine to run more efficiently and will provide overall better performance. Once you know that you have an optimal advance curve and you still run hot, then you will have to go back to the cooling system basics.

It was 98F here in San Antonio today, so you may be experiencing Summer in SC.