[Doug]

A.J.
So, as I understand it, the guy you bought it from told you that "it COULD have a slight knock when taken out of winter storage." This suggests to me that when he had not run the engine for some time, it had a NOISE and after startup, the noise subsided or disappeared. Accordingly, it appears that the guy drove the engine after these startup noises without incident.

It sounds as if perhaps the guy you bought it from didn't build the engine or he could have furnished you more details on the internals. I suggest you contact him for more info before tearing into the engine. Lacking more info I would at least remove a (both?) valve cover and check how "clean" it looks (an indicator of mileage, maintenance, etc).

It also appears that the motor hasn't been "idle" for more than perhaps several months (maybe over a wintertime storage?). Barring a detailed investigation, I would at least change oil and filter, prime the oil pump externally (not by cranking motor) for several seconds.

I would take out the plugs and spray a small amount of misting oil into each cylinder, let it set overnight and then with plugs removed rotate the crank a few times by hand.

You haven't indicated what facilities (engine stand, work space, tools, etc) that you have.
Digging into engine internals can be difficult and awkward without facilities.

While "breaking deep into" an engine to inspect bearings, lifters, etc. is worthwhile, I would be reluctant to do so in chasing an "unknown noise" that I had not heard.

I note that you are in Sweden and I suspect that even routine parts (gasket sets, etc) are quite expensive and far less available there compared to what they are in the USA, a fact which many here in USA lose site of.

Since the previous owner appears to be concerned enough to follow up with you on your purchase and there is a pretty close Pontiac and GTO community in Sweden, the previous owner probably wouldn't risk his reputation within that community by totally misrepresenting what he sold you.

Work safe! Good luck!

P.S. I have a friend who sells and ships many vintage and classic cars to Sweden.

[Doug]

A.J.

I forgot to mention that if you are changing out flywheels or flexplate, make sure none of the crank hub bolt holes don't have threads stripped out before you install the engine!

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Pull the valve covers and post up some pics what is there. Exterior pics too.
You will either be or .

[NeighborsComplaint]

Originally Posted by steve25

Put the motor on a dyno to find out if it will blow up, really?!
Would you light your house on fire to find out what's not flammable in it?

lol

I'll tell you how that day would go for me. Rent a Uhaul or pickup truck to drag the motor to the dyno. Spend some money for fluids, filter, plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor. Get grief from the dyno operator for bringing in a rusty, oily lump of a motor. Spend more money getting it connected up and then blow it up after which the dyno operator hands you the bill for the pull and the cleanup.

Is this really any easier than dropping the motor in the car, connecting the throttle cable, fuel line and a few wires and giving it a spin? As long as the flywheel is on, you don't even need to hook up the trans. Just support the back or the motor with a floor jack under the rear sump.

[69Farburd]

A little off topic, but are these the big valve #16 heads? I had 1968 #16 heads on my 428 and had to add 2 1/2 gallons of racing fuel to a tank of 93 octane gas to keep it from pinging.

[steve25]

The op stated that they where indeed casting # 16 heads so it's a 4 bolt main motor , so please do the right thing and don't blow it up by assuming it's good to go.

[Doug]

Steve,

I hadn't picked up what year the engine is but McCarthy's book lists a 69 428 XE code engine with 16 heads as a 2-bolt main (360hp-auto)

2 or 4, it needs some looking over before installing.

[steve25]

No, the only 428 motors that where not 4 bolt main was 1969 2Bbl motor with # 46 cast heads.

In 69 there where 3 type of 428 motors you could get, a 370 hp , a 390 hp and the 360 hp motor.

Both the 370 and 390 hp models where topped with cast number 62 Heads and down below in the pan had 4 bolt mains , the 360 hp like I posted where all 2 bolt main.

If a 428 has number 16 heads it's got 4 bolt mains .

I have had all 3 of these motors at one time in my stash.

[A.J.]

Lots of good input here.
With regards to dyno test I domnot have one near me. I guess 300 km to the closest on and they are expensive and mostly familiar with Chevy here in Sweden.
The engine was running when lifted out with the note of the noise that occurs when it had been sitting for a longer time. (Guessing lifter noise). Its been sitting in my garage for two years now but I have been turning it now and then. It does not show any leaks from fluid or exhaust and I have given it a paint job to look fresh. Carb is a q-jet 7042240 built by Kenth and he indicated it was made for low vaccum 10 in/hg.
The guy who sold it to me realized that he let it go way to cheap but stood by his word.
Its not a four bolt from what I found out and its a -69 with #16 head but with screw in studs which gets me thinking that it's not original but has been built (got a thread somewhere here on questions around the engine) previous owner does not know what has been done though.
Im leaning slightly to just drop engine and trans in to start it up in the car. If its not OK it's maybe a day or two of work lost.

[A.J.]

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...&highlight=428
This was the post i referred to.

[steve25]

Sitting for a long time there!

If you do not pull the Distributor to spin the pump and get a good prime going then make sure you have a fully charged Battery and with the spark plugs out spin the motor over for 20 seconds .

Next put the plugs back in and if the accelerator pump is stil then not working dribble some gas down the open primary of the Carb ( enough to see that your wetting the bottom of the Manifold.

Next make sure the choke is closed and proceed to start the motor.

If it goes to kick/ start only let it run for a second or two then shut it down and do that one more time.
You should have a helper with you who can confirm that the oil pressure light goes out before you let it run for more then a few seconds.
I would also start off with the oil pan over filled by one Qt.

[A.J.]

Good advise that will be followed

[Bob70Goat]

Lifter and cam are cheap enough, inspect, replace if needed.

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