[64catalina]

The mechanical fuel pump I mentioned above that seems to be working is a Carter M6122. $26 from Summit.

I thought of going the electric fuel pump route but there is more to it. My "Qualified Mechanic" (he does it for a living) thought the vapor lock could be solved with out going electric, besides if you go electric you will need to add the return line anyway so I would start there. Get a fuel pressure gauge it helps.

The carter gave me 8-10 psi with no return hooked up.
6-8 psi with return hooked up to fuel pump.

just my a few things to ether try or try to avoid...

[mkoser]

Originally Posted by lilabner

Vapor lock problems. Buy the 100 dollar fuel pump Ames (or Butler) sells and put on a fuel return line. That cured my problems for all but running my AC in stop and go traffic. I put an electric pump inline with a switch for that. No more problems, and it starts right up after running the electric pump a little bit. The fuel just sucks, especially in the summer months. It's not 1965 anymore. Original just doesn't get it with an old car, unless it's a trailer queen.

Would you be able to fill us in with what type of electric fuel pump you used, and where (how) you mounted it?

I'm going to do the same thing, as I just replaced my starter due to the long crank times to prime the carb. I have a 64 w/AC, so this should be a pretty simple install for me.

In the last 18 years that I've had the car, I can't believe how much fuel has changed.

Thanks in advance,

MK

[lilabner]

I found one on e bay, looks like a cylinder with a fitting on each end, and they send a small screw on filter. I sent the first one back because it had 1/8" threads and the guy sent me the diesel one. 1/4" threads and your Mechanical pump will suck through it. I had a bypass rig with a check valve all rigged up but decided to try it like this first. Works fine, takes up a small space in the frame rail by the trans cross mount. I figured there would be enough fuel left in the line to prime it, and i was right. I bought that Summit mech pump also, and another brand, didn't pump enough pressure. The high buck one pumped enough pressure, and sucked enough to end problems. These hot days in traffic with the AC on I just hit the pump switch until I get going again.

[64catalina]

lilabner,
I don't want to assume but are you running the electric pump as a secondary pump?

Thanks

Traffic sucks....

[lilabner]

Yes, secondary.
Here is the pump I used. I have AC so I have a return line. I think i get 8 lbs with it on.
You can suck fuel right thru it.
Ebay
310554057791

[64catalina]

What do you get when electric pump is off? 8psi sounds like a good number.

The only other thing I did was close the spark plug gap a little. I think your gettin there.

That's the cool thing about these cars... they are as individual as the owners themselves.

[lilabner]

I think i got 5-6 lbs. That's what i was shooting for. I did have a vapor lock problem one VERY HOT day leaving a car show. Parked on asphalt all day, turned the pump on for about 15 seconds, started right up and turned it off. went about a block and died. Turned the pump on for 20 or so seconds and cranked right up, then motored home with the AC on. At home I took the gas cap off and found it had a bunch of pressure in the tank. That happens often in the summer.

[64CatalinaVentura]

UPDATE*** Please excuse the dirty engine compartment!

I all,
Thank you for the great ideas and encouragement on this topic. Here is where I stand right now:

1. The Carter AFB has been rebuilt and installed on the car along with the factory air cleaner assembly. The car is back to a mechanical choke after having an electric choke with the other carb.

2. The rubber fuel lines that had been on the car have been replaced with correct 3/8" steel line. The lines run differently with the Carter than they did on the Edelbrock so they are now farther away from the engine block and heater hoses.

3. I replaced the generic fuel filter with a repo one from Ames. It has been re positioned to be farther away from the block.

4. Installed a 160 degree thermostat and the correct style upper radiator hose (thanks to 8Lug!).

5. Replaced the missing back half of the alternator bracket.

6. Changed the transmission fluid and filter and adjusted the linkage (what a difference!).

7. A rebuilt AC fuel pump using ethanol resistant parts rather than another generic pump from the big box guys.

I owe particular thanks to the guys at my local shop who went out of their way to help me with this car. I also owe special thanks to 8Lug who always goes out of his way to steer me in the right direction. Thanks to him, I also replaced the fuel cap, which did seem to make a difference as the car did not stall during the short time between replacing it and doing this other work.

It was in the mid to upper 80's here today, perfect weather for the car to stall in traffic....but it didn't! More miles will tell the full story, but I am cautiously optimistic right now.

For those of you who are in southern CT and need a carb rebuilt I would like to suggest Ted Aub of A & A Autoparts in Branford, CT. Ted was refereed to me by several local guys who have used him on a variety of cars. He is an old school guy who works on everything himself and really knows his stuff.

Below are a few pictures of the engine compartment now.



[IMG][/IMG]

[64CatalinaVentura]

Update #2

The car is running much better, but isn't idling well at start up. It starts right up, but tries to stall after a few moments. Once the car gets going it dies after about 25 feet. The car struggles until it has run for about 5 minutes and then smooths out. I'll have to look into the idle this week.

[64CatalinaVentura]

What would cause the car to stall in this same situation: Start it up, put into gear, and stall as soon as I touch the gas. If I really rev the engine I can keep it running. After a few minutes the problem clears up.

[gary bennett]

Originally Posted by 64CatalinaVentura

What would cause the car to stall in this same situation: Start it up, put into gear, and stall as soon as I touch the gas. If I really rev the engine I can keep it running. After a few minutes the problem clears up.

i let mine warm up before putting in DR. let it warm up and kick it down to idle.

[64CatalinaVentura]

Originally Posted by gary bennett

i let mine warm up before putting in DR. let it warm up and kick it down to idle.

It stalls no matter how long it let it warm up. In park I can rev the engine no problem. In drive or reverse if I even tap the gas it stalls.

[Willshire]

So it idles good regardless of temp?
It doesn't hesitate or bog when you snap the throttle in park?
Stays idling but wants to stall in dr or rev?
When you tap the gas in dr or rev it dies?

[64CatalinaVentura]

Originally Posted by Willshire

So it idles good regardless of temp?
It doesn't hesitate or bog when you snap the throttle in park?
Stays idling but wants to stall in dr or rev?
When you tap the gas in dr or rev it dies?

Hi Willshire,

The car idles a bit rough when first started. It did stall once after first starting.
I have let the car idle anywhere from 1-10 minutes before putting it into gear.
When the car is still cold (not fully up to temp) it will stall when I tap the gas with the car in gear. It doesn't matter if the car is still on high idle or not (tried it both ways).
Once the car starts to stumble, the only way to keep it going is to keep giving it gas, otherwise it will stall.
Once the car is up to temp, this issue goes away. I just went out there with it warm. It started right up and drove fantastic.

Both here and in person, I've been asked about how I start the car now that it has a mechanical choke. Please tell me what I'm missing:
Press the pedal to the floor to set the choke, turn the key and the car starts. Let the car run for a minute or two (sometimes even longer) to warm up. While the car is still on high idle, I rev the engine to get it off high idle. I put the car into gear and give it some gas to move forward/backward.

Is it me?

[Willshire]

A warm engine tends to atomize fuel a lot better than a cold one. I think your issue is in the idle air circuit or you are to far off the transition slots. Does your carb have the 2 little screws out front for adjusting idle air?

[64CatalinaVentura]

@Willshire
Yes I do. I have the two smaller screws with a larger one in the middle.

[Willshire]

Generally they should be turned out almost exactly the same. Guys, correct me if i am wrong but, set them roughly a turn and a half out from seated. just barely seat them, and turn them back 1.5 turns. run the car up to temp and turn them out until the idle smooths out. an additional tun max. if no change after a half turn out, turn them in no more than half a turn somewhere between 1 and 2.5 turns out is the sweet spot in most cases. Secondly, make sure your timing is to spec and, if still using points, the point gap is correct.

[gary bennett]

do you have a dashpot & is it adjusted correctly

[64CatalinaVentura]

Originally Posted by gary bennett

do you have a dashpot & is it adjusted correctly

I do have a dashpot, I do not know how to tell if it is adjusted correctly (or what it actually does now that I think of it...)

[gary bennett]

Originally Posted by 64CatalinaVentura

I do have a dashpot, I do not know how to tell if it is adjusted correctly (or what it actually does now that I think of it...)

it prevents stalling when foot is taken off pedal