[RamAirIV28]

as you please,

thanks for your contribution to solving the original problem posted

let me appologise for OVER emphasizing the need to ground the heads properly

and for making sure that all parts are properly grounded to reduce or stop corrosion problems and since there are two heads maybe they both ought to be grounded

and I completely disagree with you when you say that no one agrees with grounding the head, intake (Distributors are aluminum too) multiple times, the factory did it and I have seen it done on cars at the track and in several publications. so there you go. and I don't need anybody to agree with me in order to be right. no sheep here sir.

"and a reading disorder too perhaps......" sorry about that "accusation" maybe its some other problem.

I did not make any reference to your suspected reading disorder from the very start. re read my first post.... it could be a comprehension disorder or a social disorder,

but thanks again for your meaningful and significant contributions

and one last thing.... basic chemistry theory suggests that proper grounding will reduce or eliminate corrosion.

[78w72]

forgive me sir, i didnt realize you knew everything. & even though others clearly questioned or flat out disagreed with your grounding logic, you're still somehow right. hmm.

please enlighten us, show one picture or diagram where the factory grounded the heads multiple times. the ground strap from the head to the firewall on most cars is NOT to ground the head, it is simply grounding the engine as a whole to the body, its a continuation of the block ground to the frame. & actually supports what myself & others are saying... the heads are coupled to the block by the head bolts & probably the gasket compression ring. i guess i could agree with your logig on this, but then we'd both be wrong....

you're entitled to your opinion though. & quadra jets are junk too huh? i give up

[RamAirIV28]

Originally Posted by 78w72

forgive me sir, i didnt realize you knew everything. & even though others clearly questioned or flat out disagreed with your grounding logic, you're still somehow right. hmm.

please enlighten us, show one picture or diagram where the factory grounded the heads multiple times. the ground strap from the head to the firewall on most cars is NOT to ground the head, it is simply grounding the engine as a whole to the body, its a continuation of the block ground to the frame. & actually supports what myself & others are saying... the heads are coupled to the block by the head bolts & probably the gasket compression ring. i guess i could agree with your logig on this, but then we'd both be wrong....

you're entitled to your opinion though. & quadra jets are junk too huh? i give up

You are forgiven. even for playing the verbal shell game to back out of your hole and the straw man argument about q junk

Blah blah blah, I googled these images for about a quarter of a second. and then hit a few chevy ford, Honda and Chrysler sites as well. awful lot of no ones out there.
and as for a factory ground ... do your own research start first with the gto restoration guide, or any Pontiac parts vendors catalog or any factory assembly guide maybe do a search right here on this forum.....maybe

"probably" says it all.

but hey, thanks for your contribution to the members original post.

please don't hijack the thread to address qjunk issues

[RamAirIV28]

yet another know one? Know two.... I'm starting to loose count of all the no ones who are wrong

http://www.insidetopalcohol.com/show...-ground-straps

[78w72]

verbal shelling game? back out of my hole? what in the world???

my comment & at least 2 others was simply questioning your statement that the heads need to be grounded multiple times & "dont rely on the head bolts." so for the last time, 10 bolts to the block are quite sufficient to ground the heads. no "verbal shelling game" about it. you started this crap by getting all mad for some unknown reason with your "reading deficiency" & other rude & uncalled for comments.

as for the diagrams you posted, we are talking about a factory 1970's pontiac/gm car, not some 2000's car with a GPS & dvd player stereo system. totally different technology. or a trunk mounted battery pic... or for that matter grounding a carb with an elect choke. what, does the electric choke grounding stop the choke from corroding or something none of those were ever in question. so i ask again... please show a diagram of a factory 1970's pontiac that grounds the heads multiple times? or any relation to stopping corrosion.

my "contributions to the OP's questions" were how to protect aluminum parts from corroding... i showed what i did for my engine & it works great... nothing more. sorry but grounding a head multiple times will NOT stop it from corroding in the atmosphere. that is a fact. your diagrams are for electrical conductivity only, nothing to do with stopping corrosion like you seem to think. so keep on trying but you havent proven anything pertaining to this subject about corrosion of exposed aluminum parts....

i'm trying to put this to rest before mods step in with warnings. but i understand if you need to have the last word. please, lets just agree to disagree & move on.

[Firebob]

Ok ok. Actually my original question was about stopping or protecting internal aluminum parts from corrosion. Hence the mention of the newer GM red coolant. Properly grounding an engine's components is a good idea. Not sure that every little piece needs it but some of the major ones. Most parts are grounded to each other in one way or another. If a couple here and there will help limit internal corrosion it sounds easy enough.
ok on with the bickering...or not.

[78w72]

sorry bob, thought your last sentance was asking what to do to protect aluminum heads on the outside. & sorry for bickering up your post.

[Firebob]

No worries.

[Captainofiron]

Originally Posted by Firebob

Ok ok. Actually my original question was about stopping or protecting internal aluminum parts from corrosion. Hence the mention of the newer GM red coolant. Properly grounding an engine's components is a good idea. Not sure that every little piece needs it but some of the major ones. Most parts are grounded to each other in one way or another. If a couple here and there will help limit internal corrosion it sounds easy enough.
ok on with the bickering...or not.

the problem is that aluminum is pretty far down on the anodic side of the galvanic table (meaning it will give up ions)

a sacrificial anode will work, you just need to keep an eye on it, not to mention it can create debris within your coolant system that can clog up passages/get in mechanical elements (water pump, t-stat, valves), but then again this is going to happen as the aluminum corrodes

take a look at this
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=307947

[mchell]

Originally Posted by Firebob

Ok ok. Actually my original question was about stopping or protecting internal aluminum parts from corrosion. Hence the mention of the newer GM red coolant. Properly grounding an engine's components is a good idea. Not sure that every little piece needs it but some of the major ones. Most parts are grounded to each other in one way or another. If a couple here and there will help limit internal corrosion it sounds easy enough.
ok on with the bickering...or not.

I put a couple bottles of corrosion control in and use anodes.....one in the radiator(drain plug), and one in the intake water crossover.....overkill?...maybe....I hate corrosion

https://www.rotometals.com/ProductDe...x-a-lite-Anode

[Formulabruce]

Corrosion inside? on aluminum?? there is a fix, watch Jay Leno's garage on this.. buy it ONCE, lasts FOREVER
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7PykrgzWPQ

[HWYSTR455]

FYI, now all over the counter coolant is compatible with aluminum parts, used to just be the orange stuff, that's why they made it orange, to tell the difference.

If you flush your coolant at intervals like is recommended, the additives should prevent the majority of corrosion. Anodes provide an extra level of protection, though not sure it's required.

How much is that Evans stuff? If it's reasonable, I may switch to it, but I generally flush and change every two years anyway.

.

[Captainofiron]

Originally Posted by mchell

I put a couple bottles of corrosion control in and use anodes.....one in the radiator(drain plug), and one in the intake water crossover.....overkill?...maybe....I hate corrosion

https://www.rotometals.com/ProductDe...x-a-lite-Anode

those look like they would work pretty nice, you could also probably stick them on a T- fitting in the heater hose lines if you didnt have a 1/4NPT port somewhere

[Joel Koontz]

you could also probably stick them on a T- fitting in the heater hose lines if you didnt have a 1/4NPT port somewhere[/QUOTE]

This might work, but I think the anode would need to be grounded for it to work properly.

[Captainofiron]

Originally Posted by Joel Koontz

you could also probably stick them on a T- fitting in the heater hose lines if you didnt have a 1/4NPT port somewhere

This might work, but I think the anode would need to be grounded for it to work properly.[/QUOTE]

It should work even not grounded as they are connected via the electrolyte (aka water/coolant), but you never know

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

FYI, now all over the counter coolant is compatible with aluminum parts, used to just be the orange stuff, that's why they made it orange, to tell the difference.

If you flush your coolant at intervals like is recommended, the additives should prevent the majority of corrosion. Anodes provide an extra level of protection, though not sure it's required.

How much is that Evans stuff? If it's reasonable, I may switch to it, but I generally flush and change every two years anyway.

.

Evans is about 150 bucks for a complete change over, but its LIFETIME, NO more flushing, no more corrosion at all, no breakdown
watch Jay Leno here on Evans
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7PykrgzWPQ

[Will]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

FYI, now all over the counter coolant is compatible with aluminum parts, used to just be the orange stuff, that's why they made it orange, to tell the difference.

If you flush your coolant at intervals like is recommended, the additives should prevent the majority of corrosion. Anodes provide an extra level of protection, though not sure it's required.
...
.

How is it that my daily drivers for years have had iron blocks and aluminum heads (and some even aluminum radiators) and there have been no problems with corrosion.

My last Corolla went 230K with no issues related to corrosion inside the engine. Other than that two cylinders in a Pontiac displace more than that entire engine, what difference is there?

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Will

How is it that my daily drivers for years have had iron blocks and aluminum heads (and some even aluminum radiators) and there have been no problems with corrosion.

My last Corolla went 230K with no issues related to corrosion inside the engine. Other than that two cylinders in a Pontiac displace more than that entire engine, what difference is there?

I've never had a problem either, my driver has close to 100k miles on it and no sign of corrosion.

I think most who have issues aren't running coolant, and there's no prohibitors in water. Or hope not!

Run straight water and you stuff will crap up, pretty no-brainer to me. Run coolant, flush it every 2-3 years, and you don't have to worry about it. Or run the Evans and never have to flush it, your choice.
.

[Formulabruce]

I have and have seen many aluminum intakes corrode at the T stat housing area and on the water passages. The corrola wasnt sitting much, but I still noticed corrosion on my Sentras I ran that much...when I toook them apart after. If it sits, and their is any air in the block, the chance for corrosion is higher, throw in some temperature changes and its chemistry.. I have seen subaru head gaskets go due to corrosion... did you guys even watch the video? This is geared more towards engines that SIT, but is being used in many fleets to cut down on expenses down the road...

[RamAirIV28]

there is a service/product offered by dart machinery, its a coating they apply to internal engine coolant surfaces that protects the surfaces from corrosion.