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#21
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You remember what Jim Wangers said about the hood scoop?
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#22
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Yeah, but it gives the same feeling I had driving a 57 T Bird back in the day.
Cool man, cool. |
#23
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Hmm, some good ideas here, I feel like it would function more as ram air as long as the pan and seal are in place under the hood.
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
#24
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Not according to Jim Wangers. He said it's in the location on the hood and facing the wrong direct.
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#25
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From an old post by Pontirag on 06-14-2013, 01:56 PM
".......the repop scoops are not the same as the factory ones? I understand that they are a "propriatary design" that only fit the repro hoods, and that you cannot install factory hood scoops in the repro hoods." This is some info to check out when you want to get the correct "scoop". (Pun intended) |
#26
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Quote:
Quote:
Compare that to the Firebird Formula hood, which would be a much better design. K
__________________
'63 LeMans Convertible '63 Grand Prix '65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 original mile Royal Pontiac factory racer '74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.85 @ 136 mph besthttp://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ My Pontiac Story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 "Intro from an old Assembly Plant Guy":http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 |
#27
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My dad mentioned to me that the GTO scoop was originally supposed to be taller, ala '57 T bird, but the metal was being stretched too thin and was tearing. They kept gradually reducing the height and revising the shape until they could repeatably manufacture a part - and that is what determined the final design. K
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'63 LeMans Convertible '63 Grand Prix '65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 original mile Royal Pontiac factory racer '74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.85 @ 136 mph besthttp://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ My Pontiac Story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 "Intro from an old Assembly Plant Guy":http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 |
#28
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But the Formula hood scoops would look really funny on a 65 to 67 GTO. I'd lean towards the 71/72 GTO's intakes grafted to the 65/66/67 hood up front for real RAM Air. Kinda like what Shelby did going from the 65/66/67 hood to the 68 RAM Air hood scoops up front on the GT 500. That's where it did trick for the full RAM Air effect.
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Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#29
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I agree that the ram air effect is minimal on the '65 through '67 gtos. The real difference is in the air temperature that makes for a denser charge. By and large, under-hood air is quite a bit hotter than outside the hood air. The larger the difference between the two, the greater the difference in performance with the ram air pan. I am proud to run one of the estimated 300 original ram air pans on my '66. I don't know how great of a performance difference it makes, but it is a part of history. It looks cool too! Jerry.
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By diligent effort I seem to be prolonging my adolescence to total absurdity. John D. MacDonald |
#30
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Quote:
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Bill Nawrot (Wino Bill) 1972 GTO Hdtp One Owner, GTOAA "Concours Best Original" 2007, 2013, and 2019 Auto-Biography http://oneownercollectorcar.com/inde...to-bill-nawrot HPP Sept. 2014 https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1972...-gee-no-g-t-o/ YouTube MCACN 2014 http://youtu.be/1IPQVPevbxU 1967 GTO Conv |
#31
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Quote:
Charles |
#32
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The Ford scoop is smaller in overall area than the GTO scoop despite the height difference so the metal would flow less and not tear when being drawn into the form. I can see the huge GTO scoop being an issue since that is a huge draw (area wise) and if the 1965 hoods were thinner gauge than the 1955 Ford hoods, you could get a problem with metal flow and tearing.
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#33
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Spud, here's a photo of the functional scoop on my '67. Still looks stock, but from the side, you can see light through it.
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Jeff |
#34
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It looks like the whole piece is painted flat black. Is that right and did you use a cutoff saw and cut the back of the louvers off?
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#35
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The whole thing is painted a semi gloss black. I used a cut off wheel perpendicular to the back and just ran it along the back area crosswise. No need to cut between the fins. It's thin aluminum and goes away really quickly.
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Jeff |
The Following User Says Thank You to geeteeohguy For This Useful Post: | ||
#36
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Thank you, I will have to give this a shot.
__________________
1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
#37
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I've done this to two scoop inserts myself. I think it's the best looking way to have functional scoops & also helps to keep debris out. If I was going to race the car, I believe I would pull the whole insert out & make a larger opening for the intake air. I've always felt that the small openings with the ribs still in might impede airflow a slight bit.
__________________
By diligent effort I seem to be prolonging my adolescence to total absurdity. John D. MacDonald |
#38
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reading all the posts I guess Its what a guy wants to do, I had a machinest friend of mine mill mine out and left the ridge around the fins, looks good to me, as for leaving the fins and cutting between them I remember reading along the same lines about satelite dishes that where perforated allum. after the wind blew so hard it didn't make any differance if the holes where there or not, being an X drag racer we all know the best place to get the air is at the base of the windshield. just my opinion. jd grim 66 gto
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