['ol Pinion head]

Strange has recently responded to market demands with their tapered axle bearing c-clip elim package. Wider wheels & tires & higher sideloading forces are why tapered axle bearing took off in '69 & 70 with GM & Ford. Nice to see the aftermarket woke up.

http://www.strangeengineering.net/ne...angeA1033.html

Personally hate the leaky old ball bearing style c-clip elims & made a decision years ago not to install them, but go tapered bearing end bolt-in axles instead. As I mentioned earlier that is easy if building with an 8.5 A-body housing. I've even cut A-10 housing ends off big Buick rears in order to have my own cheap housing ends to weld on to GM housings & order Mosers for.. Should mention a pair of prehistoric c-clip elims would have saved the 12 bolt axle from departing my GT-37 when its axle broke in the late 70's. That said, I doubt I would own that car today, if it had not been taken off the track & tucked away.

On garden variety c-clip elims, it's one thing if the car is straight line limited use deal, but for those that have dual purpose cars, & ones that can also handle well, the average ball bearing c-clip elim set-up doesn't cut it. Building rears over the years I have accumulated a pile of junk c-clip elim'ed 12 bolt axles that still have the alum inner collar pressed on them. The rest wore out & was thrown in the scrap barrel. No thanks.

[Lee]

Originally Posted by tc

Thanks for all the reply's.


When does a button break off an axle?

For drag racing, it probably never will. But, the axle itself can break, which will cause the outboard stub and the wheel/tire to leave the car. The "eliminator" will keep the wheel attached, as long as the break is inboard of the retainer/bearing.

Maybe if you were doing a lot of high-g cornering you could pop the button.

['ol Pinion head]

The only GM c-clip car axle that Ive seen break at the button were out of newbie built factory stock roundie-round cars. The guys who threw the car together to go "racin" did not have the smarts to go with bolt-in axle '73-77 A-body rear.

Have seen quite a few c-clip axles that broke right up past the axle spline. Sealed bearing stock bolt in axles like the stock '64-69 Tempest-GTO axles like to seize under the axle bearing & chew up the axle mating surface. Eventually one will be going around a slow speed corner, hit a bump, & the axle will depart through the RW507CR axle bearing. I've also ran across a few sealed bearing standard duty axles that were in quick cars that broke at the wheel bearing area.

[Skip Fix]

Chupa- Strange just came out with these last year (still isted in their "New Parts" section on web site)so you must have a different one or they are just finally marketing it. It has a press in sleeve to use the larger ID hole taper bearing on the smaller stock OD axles as well as dual seals.. Moser,Strange and others for years have sold taper bearings on their larger aftermarket OD axles that they knew folks were using a C clip elim or weld on ends.

Heard some folks worry about even using C clip elim and aftermarket axles with the groove for machining and no C clip causing a potential weak spot.

OPH think those C clip elim with the taper bearing are as strong for cornering as weld on ends?Weld ons still only have 4 bolts holding the retainer plate on.

[Chupa]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

Chupa- Strange just came out with these last year (still isted in their "New Parts" section on web site)so you must have a different one or they are just finally marketing it. It has a press in sleeve to use the larger ID hole taper bearing on the smaller stock OD axles as well as dual seals.. Moser,Strange and others for years have sold taper bearings on their larger aftermarket OD axles that they knew folks were using a C clip elim or weld on ends.

Heard some folks worry about even using C clip elim and aftermarket axles with the groove for machining and no C clip causing a potential weak spot.

OPH think those C clip elim with the taper bearing are as strong for cornering as weld on ends?Weld ons still only have 4 bolts holding the retainer plate on.

Ahh, gotcha - yea I got large aftermarket axles... thanks for the clarification.

Just wondering what power level will break a stock axle is it close to when you would eliminate c-clips? if so, maybe just skip to the aftermarket axle. I seem to remember the aftermarket axles were almost double the diameter of the stock ones.

['ol Pinion head]

Skip, pulled out a pair of cutoff GM A10 housing ends & looked at the pic Strange has up on their site of the A1033 c-clip elim kit.

It appears Strange has taken a pair of A10 tapered axle bearings (1.5625 inner bore, 2.88 OD) and CNC'ed a pair of aluminum blocks to accept & retain these A10 bearings and their external seal. The little stepped sleeves I see in their pic must press onto the bearing land area of a stock 1.400 diam 10 bolt or 12 bolt c-clip axle, so the axle can be "built up" to accept the press fit A10 bearing. Personally, I prefer a thicker Moser axle with an A10 tapered axle bearing pressed on & bolted in the swelled end of the A10 housing tube. The axle is thicker all the way to the splines & ones not fighting the c-clip elim housings in the common 9.5" drum backing plates.

If I had a 12 bolt rear that already had the stock ends cutoff, imho, this Strange kit would be a better option than what Moser is offering with their c-clip elims. Strange's option is also quite a bit cheaper than going with one of Mark Williams oval track ends.

For any one ordering a pair of these new Strange tapered bearing c-clip elims, I'd love to hear from you to confirm the existence of a thin press on sleeve on each stock axle.

[Skip Fix]

From what I've read,talked to them and see there is a bushing/sleeve to build up a stock axle to fit the bearing they use.
I agree a dedicated axle for the correct bearing and a retainer kit for it would probably be stronger, but I giess if you have stock or stock aftermarket replacements they would be OK, and probably as strong as that axle in a stock C clip rear for cornering also.