[thirdgen455]

Would the headman shorty's clear the crossmember if swapped from left to right and faced the collectors to the front?

[Chris Petersen]

Originally Posted by thirdgen455

Would the headman shorty's clear the crossmember if swapped from left to right and faced the collectors to the front?

Nope, not on a second gen firebird or t/a.

I forgot his screen name, from ca. used flipped manifolds on a gto, but have to notch the frame.

[thirdgen455]

That is what I would have guessed, I tried a set of RA's on mine backwards and it ran right into the the crossmember so I figured it would come about the spot on a 2nd gen since they based the design on the ram airs.

[n2ogpsj462]

My build is in here somewhere. No clue on power but very fat (10.5:1) and 5-6psi i ran my buddies 10.80 GN on the street. He beat me obviously but i was ahead until about 120mph (what he said, my speedo doesnt work) and my car fell flat on its face in 3rd at about 5k. It just wouldn't pull anymore. very raw tune. no timing controller and 30 degrees locked. never had much time to play with it but i feel leaner i might have given him a better race. my car wieghs 4400lbs so i can guess power output but no real numbers. i run stock logs with my drivers side being a center output with 2.5 mandrel pipes. If i could re-do it i would use 2.25 pipes for better spool time. Im using the S475 with big wastegate that holds 5.5-6psi without controller

[BruceWilkie]

n2ogpsj462... It's been awhile since I read your build. What cam did you use? Valve springs? Cam installed timing? AFR really at 10.5? What is ignition timing?

Reason I ask is I've seen 360 inch small blocks running the same turbo with the 96mm turbine wheel 1.32 AR doing ok with them.(8-10 lbs boost by3000-3500 and on the gate in the 4000's depending on boost level) Though they are running better heads, 3800+ convertors, transbrakes, and various electronics including efi, boost controllers, boost builder programs etc., you have 100+ more inches.

I'm speculating here but altering your cam timing might help your spool and your valve springs may need more pressure than you are using. BUT more likely...Too rich or too retarded can affect spool too! Wouldnt hurt to take some ex pressure readings compared to boost. I'd be curious to see if ex manifold pressure was a tid more than turbine inlet pressure and its always good to see what the difference between boost and turbine inlet pressure is.

You should be able to go leaner(+11.5) especially at lower rpm and foot braked. Then approx 11.5 as load and boost comes up. Sneak up on the tune, read the plugs and AFR, listen for signs of ping etc.. I think you should be spooling better and have room for more boost too.

[n2ogpsj462]

everything about my combo is wrong. 2802 cam installed straight up. blah blah blah. had my car together 3 1/2 yrs ago when pretty much only a few including jeff, mark and that guy with the formula were up and running. dont want to hijack this thread but once i get rolling again (new house, wife and daughter occupy most of my free time) i plan on tearing alot down. iron heads and 9.3 zero deck wont take much boost for long. hyd roller cam and the correct springs are next

[andrewb70]

Originally Posted by Chris Petersen

Here is a link to that write up...

http://www.highperformancepontiac.co..._am/index.html

That build is terrible. Is the downpipe held on with gum?



Andrew

[Craig Hendrickson]

As I cited in an early post, the stock log exhaust manifolds with 2-1/4in downpipes are more than adequate for 500+HP and 700+TQ on a street driven Gen-2 Firebird. H-O proved this with the "TurboForce" kit. Here are 3 relevant pictures:

P-side stock log exhaust manifold with outlet pipe from Turbo. This required a modified P-side engine mount to raise that side by about 1in and a "clipped" rear D-side valve cover to clear the power brake booster.



Underside showing the two down pipes from stock log manifolds Y'd into a forward 3in pipe:



Underside showing the forward 3in pipe traversing between the frame X-member kickup and the D-side lower control arm. This required trimming the back inside of the lower control arm flange.



This setup worked well on Gen-2 Trans Ams of the day WITHOUT scraping the pipes on anything like parking lot speed bumps. This setup is so simple that is must escape the imagination of those trying to plumb their own Gen-2 setups. Trust me, I've seen several "re-engineerings" of the original H-O TurboForce for whatever reason and they were junk.

Take it for what you will.

[Chris Petersen]

Craig,

Thanks for those pictures!

[Johnny406]

Originally Posted by Chris Petersen

Craig,

Thanks for those pictures!

X2!! I'm thinking with my solid mounts and tubular upper control arms I will have a bit more "wiggle room."

[Craig Hendrickson]

For your edification, here's an old picture I found illustrating how the lower control arm flange and X-member kick up has to be cut.



Here's a catalog picture of the top view of the whole TurboForce kit installed on an engine on a stand. Of course, you can fabricate and place your components anywhere that makes sense. None of the components shown are available anymore except occasionally on eBay.

[Johnny406]

I was looking in my new ROD & Custom magazine and I saw these Sanderson headers for a 1st gen F-body. They are quite a bit different than the Hedman shorties.

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sand...00-Engine.html

[Chris Petersen]

Spent the weekend out in the garage, cutting pipe and welding.

I think I got the hard part done.

He are 2 pics of them tacked together, they are fully welded now.
I wont show my ugly a$$ welds...lol

[Johnny406]

Originally Posted by Chris Petersen

Spent the weekend out in the garage, cutting pipe and welding.

I think I got the hard part done.

He are 2 pics of them tacked together, they are fully welded now.
I wont show my ugly a$$ welds...lol

That looks fantastic!! Feel like making a 2nd set

[Chris Petersen]

Originally Posted by Johnny406

That looks fantastic!! Feel like making a 2nd set

It really was not all that hard. I will be making a better set this winter, I'll sell ya these when I get the other set done.

[Johnny406]

Originally Posted by Chris Petersen

It really was not all that hard. I will be making a better set this winter, I'll sell ya these when I get the other set done.

Sure, let me know.

[70 bird]

Looks good! The hotside doesnt have to be pretty, just make sure there is no boogers inside the pipe to go through the turbine. Use a piece of chain and shake it around in there to break any crap loose.

[Chris Petersen]

Originally Posted by 70 bird

Looks good! The hotside doesnt have to be pretty, just make sure there is no boogers inside the pipe to go through the turbine. Use a piece of chain and shake it around in there to break any crap loose.

Thanks for the tip. Chain is a good idea.

[Chris Petersen]

If all goes well, I should be running in a few days.

Took all day yesterday to make the 5" down pipe.

5" for about 2 feet the down to 4" for the little bit left.

O2 senor bung installed too.

Have maybe 5 minutes worth of welding to finish, but my co2/argon
tank went empty. About time, its a little one and was last fillen in
the spring of 04 LOL

[73 TRANSAM]

Nice, I'll be getting my flanges and tubing this week. I will be having a project for sure. Goodluck.