[grnmnstr]

69,
With your power and weight, I wouldn't run the aluminum. That's just my opinion. I would go with the 3" steel. The 1350 joints are good also.

Also, sometimes the 4" aluminum shaft will have trouble clearing in the tunnel.

[JSAauto]

When strength is an issue, I would go with a steel driveshaft. You'll never have to worry about it.

I had a 4000 lb Grand Prix that was on 2 nitrous units (port and plate). Ran in the high 10's with a 3.0 gear. I twisted the stock steel driveshaft to look like a joint LOL!! Had a company called Cannon driveshafts out here in Van Nuys, Ca. make me a new one with the big u-joints and thick wall tubing. I think it was about $220 out the door. Like brian, I never looked back again.

I think the aluminum would be fine for you since your car isn't that heavy. There haven't been any issues with Harrys driveshaft. But if you want to make more power, then I would probably go with the confidence of the steel unit and just make more power.

Ron.... that was a cheap shot at Harry.

Remember when someone had a problem with a cracked block with Pontiac dude and someone posted about it in the "vendors thread"?? Didn't look good for P-dude.... but he was a man and stepped up to the plate and took care of it. Everyone makes mistakes. Nobodies perfect. It's the guys that stand behind their stuff after a problem arises that separates the bad ones from the good guys.

Just like one time I built a 351 Cleveland for a guy and ordered some Smith Bros. pushrods. Smith bros are one of THE top pushrod makers in the country. Had metal wearing off the guide plates after a 1000 mile inspection. Called Smith bros and they said they had a bad batch of tubing that wasn't tempered correctly. Oh well.... I guess they're still good enough for Warren Johnson. They stood behind their product.

[Brian Baker]

In my 79 T/A, I don't think I could have fit a 4" shaft in the tunnel safely. As it was, the 3.5" shaft was pretty tight when used with a safety loop. Additionally, I think once you go beyond 3.5", you'll need a custom made safety loop, as the over the counter loops aren't large enough in diameter.

[sharkbite]

When I installed the driveshaft that I posted earlier in this thread, I had to beat on my tunnel just a bit to get the 1350 yoke to clear. Not enough you'd ever be able to see from the underside and the upperside has got the carpet to hide things.

[69redbird]

I have looked on the website www.dennysdriveshaft.com and they have a drive shaft that is nitrous apps. steel with U joints 1350 SERIES...VIRTUALLY UNBREAKABLE
For Total Driveline Reliability...with or without Nitrous. What do you guys think? If I stay with steel how much H.P. would i loose over aluminum. Thanks

[Brian Baker]

For a street/strip bracket car, HP loss would be negligable. Go with the steel.

[BVR421]

the only track test Ive ever seen back to back steel to aluminum driveshaft swap was on a 11sec Buick, aluminum shaft was .060 better et. Not much but then half a tenth here and half a tenth there adds up. as I recall there was about the same accelleration improvement from swapping to aluminum race wheels from heavier aluminum street wheels. The bracket race magazine that was doing the testing was doing an article on reducing rotating mass

[JSAauto]

We've seen up to .2 sec gain in e.t. in the quarter with Mustangs.