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  #21  
Old 09-07-2005, 10:37 PM
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Goatman,

I don't know what a "modified epoxy" is. Generally, there are one and two component epoxies whether you're talking about an adhesive, sealant or coating. One part epoxies usually require elevated temperatures or UV to properly cure.

Nevertheless, you will not get nearly the performance of a good 2K (two component) system with an ambient cure single component coating.

John

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  #22  
Old 09-07-2005, 10:58 PM
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Bill you are way too anal. Just skip to step 10.

  #23  
Old 09-07-2005, 11:01 PM
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FWIW I've been experimenting with the Eastwood's Chassis black and Extreme Chassis black. I've sprayed over RE and sprayed it straight on bare metal. I also have the primer that they sell but haven't tried it yet.

The regular Chassis black is not that impressive, it just seems kind of soft, it scratches and gouges too easily for my taste.

The Extreme Chassis black seems noticeably harder and more durable. It's more expensive, but when you're only talking about 3-5 spray cans or one big pour can I think it is worth it.

Also - they sell the Extreme Chassis black in 'Satin' and 'High Gloss'. I bought the Satin version, and it's actually pretty danged glossy, about like regular Chassis Black. The High Gloss must be like black ice.


Chris

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  #24  
Old 09-08-2005, 01:19 AM
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Thanks guys. Shawn, Step 10 is the most important step of them all, how could you think otherwise?

Here are a few pictures of the current state of the underside. With some small detailed cleaning in the corners we will be ready to prep-paint-seal-paint this weekend then place the shell back on the frame before the snow hits.

Bill
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  #25  
Old 09-08-2005, 10:12 PM
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Bill,

That looks great! Another product you may want to consider is PPG Roadguard. It's a flexible coating that you spray over the DP and then topcoat with urethane. It doesn't go far, so I only used it in my wheel wells. It should reduce the amount of stone chips.

You'll need a conventional gun or a really big tip for your HVLP to spray it.

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  #26  
Old 09-08-2005, 11:05 PM
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Looks great Bill

  #27  
Old 09-09-2005, 10:11 AM
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Man you got that nice and clean. It ought to look really good when you finish.

  #28  
Old 09-09-2005, 05:04 PM
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OK..1st off...underside looks kick ass!

No mention of Rass-O-Nil or Picklex?

After stripping parts of my car that I will leave bare metal, I coat with any phosphoric acid product. (Just for the derusting and phosphate coating aspect, I have even used concrete cleaner!) I use none of the wash w/ water products. Seems to strange for my education level..

All these guys are right. Do not use etching primers over acid prepped surfaces. PPG calls their etching primer something like Pre Wash (???)

When ready to paint, I will use PPG product to clean metal. Then I use Picklex, Wipe on, wait a min, wipe off. Repeat. Make sure surface is completely dry. I then shoot heavy coat PPG DP90 using HVLP gun. Almost 2 yrs in the most humid garage in all of North Carolina, and no rust showing!.

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  #29  
Old 09-09-2005, 11:17 PM
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The underside looks great! Nice job!

  #30  
Old 09-11-2005, 11:01 PM
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Just an update to what we have done this weekend. With a starting point of the pictures above what we have done so far is to degrease the entire underside using PPG DX330. Once that was done we used Duponts Kwik Prep 224S then we degreased again with PPG DX 330. After we ensured it was all dry we sprayed two coats of PPG DP90. The attached pictures show just the two coats of primer as it sits now.

Tomorrow we will seam seal it all up with 3M's Ultra Pro seam sealer. Once that is done we will then spray one more good coat of DP90. After the final coat of primer we will then spray with a PPG urethane as a topcoat.

Can someone tell me the mixture for the urethane and reducer to achieve about a 20-30% gloss on the urethane?

Thanks,

Bill
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  #31  
Old 09-11-2005, 11:24 PM
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Geez Bill, I have to be honest with you - that looks terrible. You could really use some more practice.

I'll tell you what, I'll do you a favor. You can come down here and practice on mine. No charge.




Chris

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  #32  
Old 09-12-2005, 12:38 AM
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Chris,

As long as beer is involved, I am up for the challenge to trying to do better. Send plane ticket and I will see if I can screw yours up as well.


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  #33  
Old 09-12-2005, 05:01 AM
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Bill:

If they'd let you stuff your compressor and gun in with your luggage, I'd actually take you up on that.

You guys are my motivation to try to stay up to speed on my own car - you are consistently one step ahead of me so far. In fact your chassis turned out so nice I decided to have mine sandblasted as well, officially putting the wire wheel on the shelf for the moment.

Are you going to paint the entire car yourself as well? What color are you guys going with?


Chris

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  #34  
Old 09-12-2005, 09:40 PM
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Bill,

That looks great! Did you take a look at the Underhood urethanes I mentioned? They go under the PPG series DBI or DIU. The reducer will not affect the gloss level. Further, you will have little success flattening one of PPG's conventional urethanes.

John

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  #35  
Old 09-12-2005, 10:38 PM
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Chris,
Thanks. We are going to paint the car ourselves yes. We are doing everything to this car except rebuilt the rear end (already done), rebuilt the TH400 and the short block 400. No way would I attempt the tranny. I would like to build the block ourselves as Amanda disassembled it before we took it in to get cleaned and fluxed. I just dont know anything about building engines, I do have Jim Hand's book and have read it but dont feel comforatable building it because this will be Amannda's daily driver in the summer and her safety is more important to me then "learning" how to build an engine at this point. I want to and she is begging me for us to build it, just no knowledge level in this area. But hell, we have no knowledge level on anything we have dont thus far, we just jumped in.

John,

The paint store here does not have what you mentioned in stock. However, we did buy today the DCC9300 along with DCX61 hardener and DT870 reducer. Will this be fine for what we are doing? We will be ready to spray this tomorrow night as we are just now finishing up on the seam sealer. I hope to spray the last coat of epoxy and then the urethane tomorrow night with a hour or so in between the two. I have a feeling that this is going to be way to glossy, what do you think? We are going to spray this for the firewall and cowl area as well.

Thanks for the help and advice again.....

Bill

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  #36  
Old 09-12-2005, 11:33 PM
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Hey, as far as I am concerned, extra glossy = easier to clean mud, oil and tar off of it later.


Chris

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  #37  
Old 09-13-2005, 10:08 PM
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Bill,

I think Chris has the right attitude. It will work just fine, but will be high gloss. If you don't like the gloss, you can spend more money and top coat it with DCU2060 Flex-n-Flat Clear. That's what I did and you come back to about the same finish as the DP90. The plain gloss will be more durable and easier to clean however.

I'm looking forward to seeing the final product which ever way you go.

John

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  #38  
Old 09-13-2005, 10:27 PM
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John,

Thanks. I just sprayed it........ I will take a picture in a hour or two after the fog clears out and I can see through the mist. WE ARE DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! with the underside that is...

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  #39  
Old 09-13-2005, 11:03 PM
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The car looks great Bill!
I'm looking forward to seeing it in person at Norwalk in '06.
You and Amanda are doing a fantastic job.
Jeff

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  #40  
Old 09-13-2005, 11:32 PM
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Bill:

What compressor and gun are you using right now??


Chris

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