[Amtcoastie76]

I don't think that the problem is the coil due to the fact that its brand new, I just bought it from AMES about a week ago and I also tried my old coil with no results. For some reason the ignition switch from the start position to the on position is cutting power to the coil.

[64 Bonneville]

Ok, did you check to see if that has a external ballast resistor. The book did not say if it was external or internal

[connman]

don't know if u'all got u'all's problem fixed or not but the wire that is giving u'all the problem is a funky looking wire compared to the other wires kinda a cloth wrapped look. It is the ballast resistor wire. A good parts house may have it or can order it. If not try one of the companies that make custom harnesses. or u'all could use a regular wire and a ballast resistor it stops at the firewall and if u'all have a very small screwdriver u'all can push the locking tab down and pull out the wire and and carefully remove the wire from the loom connector then recrimp the new wire on the old plug and reinsert it into the connector. If u'all have a volt meter u'all can check voltage at the coil with the ignition on and not running should be right at 6 volts. If u'all don't have power pull the plug off at the firewall and check the corresponding plug on the dash side for power if no power it is most likely the ignition switch don't mind the rambling of an old man he don't know what he's talking about

DRIVE IT LIKE U'ALL STOLE IT!

[connman]

don't know if u'all got u'all's problem fixed or not but the wire that is giving u'all the problem is a funky looking wire compared to the other wires kinda a cloth wrapped look. It is the ballast resistor wire. A good parts house may have it or can order it. If not try one of the companies that make custom harnesses. or u'all could use a regular wire and a ballast resistor it stops at the firewall and if u'all have a very small screwdriver u'all can push the locking tab down and pull out the wire and and carefully remove the wire from the loom connector then recrimp the new wire on the old plug and reinsert it into the connector. If u'all have a volt meter u'all can check voltage at the coil with the ignition on and not running should be right at 6 volts. If u'all don't have power pull the plug off at the firewall and check the corresponding pl

[buwalda]

AMT76,
Checking for continuity can give false readings sometmes with components still in place. It is better to measure voltage, with the ign switch in the 'run' position. At the ign switch, you should have 12v LEAVING the switch for the coil. At the coil, you should measure either 12v or 6-8 volts, & both are ok: if the points happen to be open, you should measure 12v at the coil [+] terminal; if the points are closed, the correct voltage should be 6-8 volts. I suspect the wire that leaves the ign switch has other wires spliced into it along the loom, & this splice would be a good place to check if you do not get voltage at the coil.

[64 Bonneville]

Hope you post a message when you do figure out the problem. Some people leave you hanging and never post the results.

[Amtcoastie76]

IT'S ALIVE!! I do not know what I did but yesterday I took the ignition switch apart just to take a look at her to see if anything was bad or funky, which nothing was. I was going to buy a new one so I decided to take a look at it. Anyway after I put the switch back together I decided to go ahead and put all my wires that I had all apart back together and try doing the basics again with timing and #1 to top dead center. This time the carb was popping as I tried to start her and every once in awhile flames were coming out, Obviously not a good sign. I then pulled the distributor set the points gap again and started back at the basics. Sure enough she started just fine. I bumped the timing up to keep her running checked the dwell which was at 45 deg, brought that down to 29 and called it good. Drove her down the street, started her on and off a few times with no problems. My only conclusion is that maybe somewhere there might have been a loose wire or something. Either way though she runs now thanks to the help of you guys. Oh and to let you know I do not have a ballister wire to the coil unless its internal in the coil.

Will

[buwalda]

76,
Glad to hear it is fixed!
If you have a genuine replacement coil to suit a 65, the coil will run hot & possibly break down without a ballast resistor. Those coils were designed to run at about 7 volts when running [ 5 volts dropped by ballast resistor ].