[1978 T/A]

So I broke down and bought the Holley HP 150. My plan is to run 8AN line from tank to carb with a 6AN return.

How are you guys running the return with the larger 3/8 line into the factory tank? Are you welding a bung into the factory tank?

I bought a tank from Advance Auto for dirt cheap, and next week I will have a buddy weld in the sump (thanks Skip). Is a bung at the top of the tank necessary?

[CROCIE JR]

If you are putting in a sump, you can use the orig. 3/8" for a return. I guess you could leave the strainer in place to break up the stream. Or remove the strainer and just bend it away from the sump area. I am running the HP150 and the Mallory fuel rail with the return regulator in it (4302m) on the 535 H-O Ken built. Pick your pressure, and it locks on. Mallory also has a inline unit (4316) that you can mount anywhere in the return line. Comes with -8 though, can hide it on the frame or whatever.

[1978 T/A]

I was planning to run the Holley 12-845 right after the fuel rail. Since it seems that I can 3/8 line hose as the return to the factory sending unit would 3/8 rubber hose suffice or would I be better off running a braided line? I was going to use Aeroquip's Startlite hose.

[HWYSTR455]

The Starlite stuff in not cheap. But if you want to, I guess.

Running AN line the whole length isn't cheap either, harder to route, and bigger/heavier.

I am going to run the Jegs push-loc hose and use their' fittings, mainly because of cost, and they are black. The hose is rated for new fuels, so no worries there. You can use the AN compression fittings onto the stock pickup, and the stock 3/8 line. I know those fittings are rated for aluminum line, but I've used them before on steel, and as long as you tighten them slowly, and don't over-tighten, you're good. (And they last). Or just buy a role of aluminum line for like $25 and run new lines. If you've got the tank out, you will see it's easier to get to all that stuff. And that stuff snakes all over the place pretty easy.

Oh, a '78, that has the 'hump' in the tank, doesn't it? Not sure I've looked up under one of those in a while....

Think I will do a thread of the fuel system install on the clone. I got another HP 150 for it, and the Holley billet bypass regulator (12-841), and a 100 micron filter for before the pump. Can break out the parts and costs, should be fairly informative. Probably do the install in like 2 or 3 weekends....

The Aeromotive regulator fitting kit is actually kind of a deal (13301K1) for $24, and they are the tapered fittings for full flow...

.

[1978 T/A]

What fitting would I need to attach the socketless hose to the 3/8 sending unit feed?

The car I'm working on is the Goat.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by 1978 T/A

What fitting would I need to attach the socketless hose to the 3/8 sending unit feed?

The car I'm working on is the Goat.

3/8 sending unit feed? A little lost on that one. Is the 3/8 an NTP thread I'm guessing? Male?

You can use a AN -8 to 3/8 NTP male, then if you need to go male to male, use a 3/8 NTP to 3/8 NTP coupler.

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[1978 T/A]

Sorry if I confused you. I was talking about the factory pickup in the top of the tank that has the 3/8 line for the factory fuel delivery.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by 1978 T/A

Sorry if I confused you. I was talking about the factory pickup in the top of the tank that has the 3/8 line for the factory fuel delivery.

Gotcha. For that, being steel, I would use the Earl's adapters, since they are rated differently. All the others specifically state for use with aluminum hard line. (Not sure if that matters or not)

http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%...65006/10002/-1

Make sure the hard line is clean where the ferrel rides, like clean the line the last inch to bare metal. 600-800 grit sandpaper would work.

Use assembly lube on the threads, the ferrel, inside the connectors, and the line, to be safe, and tighten slowly with even pressure. Check it after under load, if it dribbles, crank it some more. Buy a spare in case it splits. Might take a second shot as you learn where the limit is.

You could always try to flare it, just remember you have to use an AN flare tool, and NOT a brake flare tool. (The flare angle is different). Then you can use a flare nut:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%...60106/10002/-1

(That one is for braided line, get one like it that's just the nut, sleeve, and an AN adapter)

I've tried flaring it before, steel line has a tendancy to split. But believe it can be done, if you're careful. (I gave up and use the above method).

You could always try the brass compression fittings, they are directly rated for use with steel lines. But they have a 3/8 NTP end.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Canton+Racing+...4-552/10002/-1

You can use an adapter, 3/8 NTP to AN -6 on the compression fitting then:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Aeroquip/023/FCM2727/10002/-1


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[1978 T/A]

Thanks for that post it was very helpful. I'm going to go with the Earl fittings and try out the method you have outlined.

Thanks again to all the PY'ers for your help!

[HWYSTR455]

As previously stated, I did the install thread on the clone, it's up, may want to see if there's anything you can use from it.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...30#post5157530

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