Pontiac - Race The next Level

          
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  #21  
Old 06-29-2018, 04:48 PM
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ive got to pick a rod too.....

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  #22  
Old 06-29-2018, 04:59 PM
Dragncar Dragncar is offline
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Originally Posted by jimmy daniel View Post
ive got to pick a rod too.....
In my opinion, the Molnar rod is the best steel rod for the money there is. Head and shoulders above Eagle/Scat/Manley as far as offshore H beams. Get close to the USA stuff that cost 3 times the price. Their basic rod is run on 1000HP engines all the time. I just want overkill.
Call Tom yourself and learn about connecting rod design. He won't just say buy his stuff.

  #23  
Old 06-29-2018, 05:07 PM
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What is the difference between any of the overseas rods besides final machining and bolt selection?

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  #24  
Old 06-29-2018, 05:32 PM
BruceWilkie BruceWilkie is offline
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Originally Posted by Jack Ferris View Post
What is the difference between any of the overseas rods besides final machining and bolt selection?
Molnar for example uses a separate foundry and holds them to his high standards. Eagle or RPM or Scat don't use Molnar's. Scat may have it's own China source.

  #25  
Old 06-29-2018, 06:37 PM
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Molnar for example uses a separate foundry and holds them to his high standards. Eagle or RPM or Scat don't use Molnar's. Scat may have it's own China source.
Thanks Bruce.

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  #26  
Old 06-29-2018, 10:53 PM
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What is the difference between any of the overseas rods besides final machining and bolt selection?
There is a huge difference if you look at a cross section "cut out" of a typical H beam vs a Molnar. More meat in the right places. Eagle/Scat are kinda thin and spindly compared to a Molnar.
They have not snapped off under the pin or torn the cap off the rod yet.
They make improvements based on what they have learned from failures.

  #27  
Old 06-29-2018, 11:21 PM
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I'm running a Molnar 4.375 crank and rods in my street car. Only 780hp, but fit the bill for what I was looking for. Machining was dead on right out of the box.
Ya Chinese rods like crank are ok for hp levels under 800 but you get what you pay for it’s that simple! JMO! Who’s running big hp with Chinese stuff beside jeff and he’s already said he would step up if he had the money!



GTO George

  #28  
Old 06-29-2018, 11:29 PM
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I ran eagle stuff at around 800 hp but as soon as I stepped up to the bigger blower........IA block, billet crank, Oliver rods baby my engine was worth it! Just saying!


GTO George

  #29  
Old 06-29-2018, 11:46 PM
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I Have always run scat forged cranks. A 4.250 then 4.50. I have had good luck with around 1,500 HP and shifting at 8100 to 8200. I run GRP 5000 series aluminum rods also. Don't be scared of a forged crank, the main thing to worry about is you have to have a good machine shop and a good oiling system.

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  #30  
Old 06-29-2018, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Kinsler View Post
I Have always run scat forged cranks. A 4.250 then 4.50. I have had good luck with around 1,500 HP and shifting at 8100 to 8200. I run GRP 5000 series aluminum rods also. Don't be scared of a forged crank, the main thing to worry about is you have to have a good machine shop and a good oiling system.
That’s one.......anyone else? I’m sure the rods help a ton!
Oh that’s right Jim’s got a Chinese crank in his blown Pontiac........two! LOL!


GTO George


Last edited by GTOGEORGE; 06-30-2018 at 12:08 AM.
  #31  
Old 06-30-2018, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE View Post
I ran eagle stuff at around 800 hp but as soon as I stepped up to the bigger blower........IA block, billet crank, Oliver rods baby my engine was worth it! Just saying!


GTO George
These Molnar Power Adder rods are better than the Olivers. Same guy designed both. The current Olivers quality has gone downhill. Fewer people working for them these days.
I will put of some pis of mine when I get them.

  #32  
Old 06-30-2018, 04:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kinsler View Post
I Have always run scat forged cranks. A 4.250 then 4.50. I have had good luck with around 1,500 HP and shifting at 8100 to 8200. I run GRP 5000 series aluminum rods also. Don't be scared of a forged crank, the main thing to worry about is you have to have a good machine shop and a good oiling system.
Aluminum rods make a BIG difference imo. Steel rods abuse the crank

  #33  
Old 06-30-2018, 08:32 AM
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These Molnar Power Adder rods are better than the Olivers. Same guy designed both. The current Olivers quality has gone downhill. Fewer people working for them these days.
I will put of some pis of mine when I get them.
Mr.10.90 sorry your words are not good enough for me....what the heck do you know, you are a politician! I don’t trust any politician! My gosh you bought a block with two bad holes it! LOL! Your credentials are that You have talked to someone.......just saying!


GTO George


Last edited by GTOGEORGE; 06-30-2018 at 08:42 AM.
  #34  
Old 06-30-2018, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kinsler View Post
I Have always run scat forged cranks. A 4.250 then 4.50. I have had good luck with around 1,500 HP and shifting at 8100 to 8200. I run GRP 5000 series aluminum rods also. Don't be scared of a forged crank, the main thing to worry about is you have to have a good machine shop and a good oiling system.
I may do the same thing. The Scat forged with the GRPs. I ran aluminum rods from H-O Racing in the late 80s early 90s on a N crank. I think those rods help.
By the way, your car hauls ass!!!

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  #35  
Old 06-30-2018, 09:10 AM
BruceWilkie BruceWilkie is offline
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Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE View Post
That’s one.......anyone else? I’m sure the rods help a ton!
Oh that’s right Jim’s got a Chinese crank in his blown Pontiac........two! LOL!


GTO George
George...no bad intent here. However, there's more than two... Kinsler has had two different strokes, Jim hasn't had issues, Vin63 ran 8600 rpm with cast "N" crank and 9200 with Ohio forging. There's probably more I'm not recalling.
Your Moldex billet had the nose break off (not uncommon with belt driven blowers) !
You used to run GRP aluminum rods... They didn't fail or you wouldn't be selling them.
I can understand your preference for US steel seeing all your years working for a steel company.
However Molnar won't accept product from the china foundry he uses if it doesn't meet his high QC standards. Once here it's machined to very high standards.
Having talked face to face with Molnar(and his wife) I have no reason to think he lied to me.

See you at Norwalk

  #36  
Old 06-30-2018, 09:31 AM
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Sorry Bruce you’re talking like Dragncar spreading rumors without facts! I ran an 8-71 for 10 years BRACKET RACING with no support....that’s why the snout broke a Chinese Crank wouldn’t have last no where near that long. The continual on and off the load peddling top end with a roots blower is VERY tough on a crank snout....you should know this! I’ve NEVER broken my GRP rods....I still have my first set, they have hundreds of passes an still like new (no Chinese there)! USA!
Jeff is probably the only Pontiac heads up racer running a Chinese stuff (he has GRP rods). Like I said earlier you get what you pay for......it’s pretty damn simple!
Listen most Chinese stuff have there place it’s just not in a high hp engine.
GTO George


Last edited by GTOGEORGE; 06-30-2018 at 09:51 AM.
  #37  
Old 06-30-2018, 10:21 AM
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GTOGeorge,
Really?

Everyone who reads here knows Dragncar and I are almost all of the time on different side of everything. But this time is different. What was wrong with buying the block with 2 bad cylinders?

You don't want to listen to Dragncar since he only runs 10.90. Then maybe you should STFU and listen to Jeff since he ran 7.77.

Stan

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  #38  
Old 06-30-2018, 10:46 AM
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GTOGeorge,
Really?

Everyone who reads here knows Dragncar and I are almost all of the time on different side of everything. But this time is different. What was wrong with buying the block with 2 bad cylinders?

You don't want to listen to Dragncar since he only runs 10.90. Then maybe you should STFU and listen to Jeff since he ran 7.77.

Stan
Or maybe you should STFU because you don't run anything except your keyboard! I Listen to what Jeff, Jack (you know all the FAST guys) seezs all the time (do I agree with them all the time time NO).! Guys that actually spend money on their cars and work on them (blood, sweat & tears thing)! Its easy to punch keys on a keyboard but not so much to get a car to make 1,000 hp and more without breaking! try it!



GTO George

  #39  
Old 06-30-2018, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE View Post
Or maybe you should STFU because you don't run anything except your keyboard! I Listen to what Jeff, Jack (you know all the FAST guys) seezs all the time (do I agree with them all the time time NO).! Guys that actually spend money on their cars and work on them (blood, sweat & tears thing)! Its easy to punch keys on a keyboard but not so much to get a car to make 1,000 hp and more without breaking! try it!



GTO George
GTOGeorge,
Let just say that based on the content of your posts I am sure that most here just L O L enjoy the comic relief and move on to posts that actually have some real technical information.

You never answered the question about why DRAGNCAR buying that block was a bad idea. I guess you just don't know a good deal when you see it.

Stan

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  #40  
Old 06-30-2018, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan Weiss View Post
GTOGeorge,
Let just say that based on the content of your posts I am sure that most here just L O L enjoy the comic relief and move on to posts that actually have some real technical information.

You never answered the question about why DRAGNCAR buying that block was a bad idea. I guess you just don't know a good deal when you see it.

Stan
Its easy to sit in the CHEAP seats and criticize others....try doing it! How many heads have you made or blocks....what about HP, I'm sure you've made tons of HP. Unless you CAN/or have done better id be nicer to others who have! JMO!

GTO George

GTO George


Last edited by GTOGEORGE; 06-30-2018 at 11:20 AM.
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