[Jay S]

Originally Posted by 78MayanW87

Thanks Jay - It currently has Speed Pro forged pistons (L2262F30) but I had planned on changing those out. I don't have the exact piston info in front of me right now, but it would have been the DSS pistons that Paul Sandoval recommended in his book for a ~400 hp build. Your thoughts on that?

The DSS pistons would only work for you if you found a machinist, then bore it or rehone it, rebalance it for the lighter DSS pistons and probably some forged rods, and deck the block. The DSS pistons loose some quench, they are .020” short than the 2262s, work better on decked blocks. For what you want to do the 2262 would work fine.

I have a balanced 3.75 fresh machined rotating assembly for H beams rods and have forged Icon IC890-.030” over forged pistons I would part with if you wanted to do some upgrades and not find a machinist. I am not sure if the ring height lines up though, not sure how they would work on a seasoned engine. Doesn’t sound like you necessarily need too change that stuff though.

[78MayanW87]

Originally Posted by Jay S

The DSS pistons would only work for you if you found a machinist, then bore it or rehone it, rebalance it for the lighter DSS pistons and probably some forged rods, and deck the block. The DSS pistons loose some quench, they are .020” short than the 2262s, work better on decked blocks. For what you want to do the 2262 would work fine.

I have a balanced 3.75 fresh machined rotating assembly for H beams rods and have forged Icon IC890-.030” over forged pistons I would part with if you wanted to do some upgrades and not find a machinist. I am not sure if the ring height lines up though, not sure how they would work on a seasoned engine. Doesn’t sound like you necessarily need too change that stuff though.

Here is a pic of #7 which in my opinion had the worst looking piston skirt of the lot. Would you rerun this? BTW...the block and crank are headed to Len Williams' shop tomorrow to be vatted, checked out and re-honed.

[Jay S]

Originally Posted by 78MayanW87

Here is a pic of #7 which in my opinion had the worst looking piston skirt of the lot. Would you rerun this? BTW...the block and crank are headed to Len Williams' shop tomorrow to be vatted, checked out and re-honed.

Pictures are hard to tell, but the piston looks reusable in the photo. I would bring them along and have him look at the pistons, and check the rods for roundness. Usually the bigger problem when you see scratches on the pistons is honing out deep scratches in the bores.

Since you have it at a machine shop and are talking about some decent power upgrades, you might consider swapping in some ARP main studs and have it line honed. For 557 blocks used for performance applications the extra clamping force of the main studs keeps the main caps clamped down better and don’t let the caps walk around putting extra leverage on the dowels that index the caps. Those blocks like to start cracks at the hole drilled for the dowel, some have roll pins instead of dowels, they need the main studs also, the roll pin doesn’t do enough to keep the cap located. I think it is a very basic upgrade that helps the the 557 blocks survive more power, it is different than the earlier blocks that have blind dowel holes.

[78MayanW87]

Originally Posted by Jay S

Pictures are hard to tell, but the piston looks reusable in the photo. I would bring them along and have him look at the pistons, and check the rods for roundness. Usually the bigger problem when you see scratches on the pistons is honing out deep scratches in the bores.

Since you have it at a machine shop and are talking about some decent power upgrades, you might consider swapping in some ARP main studs and have it line honed. For 557 blocks used for performance applications the extra clamping force of the main studs keeps the main caps clamped down better and don’t let the caps walk around putting extra leverage on the dowels that index the caps. Those blocks like to start cracks at the hole drilled for the dowel, some have roll pins instead of dowels, they need the main studs also, the roll pin doesn’t do enough to keep the cap located. I think it is a very basic upgrade that helps the the 557 blocks survive more power, it is different than the earlier blocks that have blind dowel holes.

This is great stuff Jay and I really appreciate the input! I'll add this to the "to-do" list when I take it over today. Thanks again - Lee