[ahnuld]

I'm trying to figure out how that proportioning valve for the rear brakes is plumbed, yes I have one of those too, and bleeder screws are on top on each calliper on the fronts right. Is the thick brake line coming out of master cylinder suppose to run to the fronts and not the back. Dan

[scld1354]

Originally Posted by ahnuld

I'm trying to figure out how that proportioning valve for the rear brakes is plumbed

X2.

The OP stated that you had a hard pedal and took a lot of effort to stop. I agree with Dan about your prop valve. I have a 67 GP that came with factory power 4 wheel drums. I swapped to discs, which mandated a new m/c. My adjustable prop valve is plumbed between the new m/c and original distribution block. Maybe you don't have it adjusted right?

[lust4speed]

I'm also confused with pictures #1 and #3. Is the new proportioning valve hooked up to the line to the rear?

Seems that to maintain system integrity, the proportioning valve should have been after the distribution block in the line to the rear. Limiting the pressure to the rear before the distribution block will probably push the sliding valve in the block to the rear and set off the brake warning light.

Last one of these we did, the block was totally removed with the front brake tubing running into a simple "T" going to each front wheel; and then a new line from the master cylinder rear outlet was run to the adjustable proportioning valve and then tied into the rear brake tubing.

[Scarebird]

Summit deserves a whack in the nuts for selling those POS boosters - if your vacuum is less than 18 InHg your pedal will be very hard as the booster is not working properly. You will have better luck with your original booster if it worked fine.

...and you get a complimentary whack for drinking Bud Light...

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Scarebird

Summit deserves a whack in the nuts for selling those POS boosters - if your vacuum is less than 18 InHg your pedal will be very hard as the booster is not working properly. You will have better luck with your original booster if it worked fine.

...and you get a complimentary whack for drinking Bud Light...

Exactly, that booster sucks (single diaphram 9"), even with enough vacuum. Those things give crappy boost. I would suggest a 9" dual diaphram unit.

The prop/distro/combo valve is wrong, as others pointed out. That I believe is the big problem, you need a disc/drum one. Didn't one come in the kit?

I also can't figure out how you have the adjustable plumbed, but I can't see where the line goes in the pics. It should be after the distro/prop/combo valve, on the rear brake side. You can also, as previously stated, omit the combo valve all together, run a T fitting for the fronts, and the adjustable inline for the rear, all plugged directly into the master.

Personally, my preference is to not use one, the combo valves do a good job of providing balance. Unless you are in extreme braking situations, like in a circuit course, you won't need to adjust the bias.

The master and plumbing, it looks like you have it right to me, but it's dependant on the master type. USUALLY, the larger reservior goes to the front brakes. If the master is properly selected for a Disc/drum setup, then it should be a 1" bore. If you still have the box the master came in, post the part number. (Still curious of the kit part number too).

Ok, my personal recommendation. Buy a new 9" dual diaphram booster/master/prop|combo valve, and a conversion line kit both for a disc/drum setup. Inline and FASTlines has the conversion line kits (others do too, like Right Stuff) that's for placement of the combo valve on a bracket attached to the booster/master, and for now, use only the lines you need, leaving the k-frame cross line and front to rear line stock, replace when you have everything sorted or have time. Leave the adjustable off for now too. EBay the booster and master you have now.

Moving the combo valve gets it away from the exhaust and allows for a header upgrade in the future. Also makes the lines easier to run and less cluttered. Getting the booster/master combo also ensures your booster pin/master relationship is correct. (if the kit is a quality one/source, but usually are correct). Also ensures you have the right disc/drum combo valve.

Finally, ride height. I'm guessing it was lower in the front than it is now, after the brake kit? Did the brake kit come with spindles?

.

[Qball]

Originally Posted by Scarebird

Summit deserves a whack in the nuts for selling those POS boosters - if your vacuum is less than 18 InHg your pedal will be very hard as the booster is not working properly. You will have better luck with your original booster if it worked fine.

...and you get a complimentary whack for drinking Bud Light...

I wish I would have known that at purchase time. But, that's what I get for going with the lowest price. That's why you see the Bud Light cans! I'll learn my lesson one day.

Originally Posted by lust4speed

I'm also confused with pictures #1 and #3. Is the new proportioning valve hooked up to the line to the rear?

Seems that to maintain system integrity, the proportioning valve should have been after the distribution block in the line to the rear. Limiting the pressure to the rear before the distribution block will probably push the sliding valve in the block to the rear and set off the brake warning light.

Last one of these we did, the block was totally removed with the front brake tubing running into a simple "T" going to each front wheel; and then a new line from the master cylinder rear outlet was run to the adjustable proportioning valve and then tied into the rear brake tubing.

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Exactly, that booster sucks (single diaphram 9"), even with enough vacuum. Those things give crappy boost. I would suggest a 9" dual diaphram unit.

The prop/distro/combo valve is wrong, as others pointed out. That I believe is the big problem, you need a disc/drum one. Didn't one come in the kit?

I also can't figure out how you have the adjustable plumbed, but I can't see where the line goes in the pics. It should be after the distro/prop/combo valve, on the rear brake side. You can also, as previously stated, omit the combo valve all together, run a T fitting for the fronts, and the adjustable inline for the rear, all plugged directly into the master.

Personally, my preference is to not use one, the combo valves do a good job of providing balance. Unless you are in extreme braking situations, like in a circuit course, you won't need to adjust the bias.

The master and plumbing, it looks like you have it right to me, but it's dependant on the master type. USUALLY, the larger reservior goes to the front brakes. If the master is properly selected for a Disc/drum setup, then it should be a 1" bore. If you still have the box the master came in, post the part number. (Still curious of the kit part number too).

Ok, my personal recommendation. Buy a new 9" dual diaphram booster/master/prop|combo valve, and a conversion line kit both for a disc/drum setup. Inline and FASTlines has the conversion line kits (others do too, like Right Stuff) that's for placement of the combo valve on a bracket attached to the booster/master, and for now, use only the lines you need, leaving the k-frame cross line and front to rear line stock, replace when you have everything sorted or have time. Leave the adjustable off for now too. EBay the booster and master you have now.

Moving the combo valve gets it away from the exhaust and allows for a header upgrade in the future. Also makes the lines easier to run and less cluttered. Getting the booster/master combo also ensures your booster pin/master relationship is correct. (if the kit is a quality one/source, but usually are correct). Also ensures you have the right disc/drum combo valve.

Finally, ride height. I'm guessing it was lower in the front than it is now, after the brake kit? Did the brake kit come with spindles?

.

Thanks for everything, thus far. The adjustable valve is, in fact, plumbed after the dist block, in series with the rear brake line. The rear brake output on the distribution block is where one end of the prop valve is and the line goes up, through the prop valve, then back down to the existing rear brake line. Some of the pics that I put up were from before the install so they don't illustrate that. I wanted to show what dist block I had and where it was.

If I were to get rid of the dist block altogether, would my brake light be lit all the time?

I like the idea of sh!t canning the current master/booster and going with the dual diaphragm booster/master/combo valve setup. In the mean time, I'm thinking of putting my old booster back in and see if that makes a difference.

The ride height was due to the new front springs. I pretty much replaced every piece of front suspension. That pic was from last year. It's already settled a bit.

[LATECH]

I agree the booster is a POS. It is smaller in diameter which will produce less boost on the same amount of vacuum. Simple physics.
One thing to consider is the master cylinder bore size.
A master with a smaller bore diameter will increase the pressure ratio between the disc pistons and the wheel cylinders . It will make it easier to apply the same amount of force at each wheel . Or it will apply more pressure with the same amount of pedal effort.
I am not sure I am explaining it well enough here, but it is the same thing as using a smaller sprocket on the front sprocket of a dirt bike.
Also the brake pedal pushrod should be roughly (as close as possible) at a 90 degree angle when the brakes are applied and stopping force is in action.
And also as mentioned, the closer you pin the master cylinder pushrod to the brake pedal pivot, the more ratio you have, making it easier to apply force, like the dirt bike sprocket thing again.
I recently pulled a dual diaphragm from a sled with a 502 crate engine. Car just wouldn't stop. I got a hydraboost and put it on. It has 4 wheel disc, and stops real good now.
I had to reposition the hole for the master cylinder pushrod , but it was no problem.

[HWYSTR455]

The switch in the combo valve for the brake like goes to ground, so the light would be off the whole time if it's not plugged in.

Yeah, the master bore size, in general, a disc/disc setup usually uses a 1 1/8 master, a disc/drum uses a 1" master, and a manual uses a 7/8" master. There are some sizes in between, but in general, those are the numbers.

Gotcha on the adjustable, kinda figured that since I didn't see the one line in the pics. But was worth asking. Still say at first leave it off, you will see once it's together you won't need it.

I still say bite the bullet and swap it out now, if you can swing it. Will save you trouble, won't have to bleed again for one. And you know it will be right. With 19" of vacuum, you will get excellent assist, the pedal should be slightly on the touchy side even.

Call Pirate Jack's, they are very helpful, and will put a 'kit' together for your setup, so you will be sure the parts are all right. They have very good pricing too. Think I paid $250 for a master/booster/combo/brackets/etc kit, can recoup some of that by selling what you have.

Do the lines, you will be happy you did. The original lines are I'm sure very brittle, and it's difficult to get a good flush on them. Right Stuff has a full conversion kit, with clips and the rear rubber soft line for like $90. You can get just the master kit, which is half that, if you can't swing the whole thing at once. Depending on your oil pan, you can probably even do the cross line with it in the air on jack stands. Plus even if you bend them yourself, you will be close to the cost of the kit anyway.

I went through hell with the driver trying to get it right, did so much swapping, etc, and finally lived with a hard pedal for years because I got so flustered with it. Finally got it worked out, so I know how frustrating it can be. On the clone, I cut to the chase and it has the pedal of like a Caddy, stops great.

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