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#21
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Interesting interview with Dave Chamberlain of Joe Gibbs Driven Oil.
Being aware that they have a monetary interest in the discussion I believe that there is information here of value and worth considering. https://youtu.be/y8nAxtFcxAE?si=4gWE9zE2bSOZX0W1
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If it breaks. I didn't want it in the first place. _____________________________________________ 69 GTO \ 72 FIREBIRD \ 1/2 OF A 64 GTO \ 70 JAVELIN \ 52 FORD PU \ 51 GMC PU \ 29 FORD PU \ 85 ALFA ROMEO SPYDER \ A HANDFUL OF ODD DUCATI'S \ 88 S10 LT1 BLAZER & MY DAILY DRIVER 67 SUBURBAN. |
#22
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There are many ways to skin a cat and what is the best way depends on who you are talking to at the time. Just because something works for you doesn't mean there isn't a better way to do it.
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Tim Corcoran |
#23
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObJMnlF0F3g
Interesting comment about Comp flat tappet cams in the towards the beginning of this video
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Tim Corcoran |
#24
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Quote:
Tractor grease for cams out this way, never an issue. Well bad lifter QC but thats it. |
#25
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True, but the internet is full of bilge, opinions from yahoo's, and generally about 75% to 80% inaccurate!! Cliff Ruggles speaks of this all the time and has seen many of his customers hornswoggled by supposed experts on the net. Moral of story, if something works for you, keep using it. Why listen to someone you don't know tell you otherwise? Now that makes no sense!!
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ram Air IV Jack For This Useful Post: | ||
#26
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Quote:
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#27
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And some people know enough to be dangerous.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Gach For This Useful Post: | ||
#28
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These threads are interesting,they pop up from time to time and NONE have ever influenced me to change what I have been doing for years and I’m sure a lot of others are the same?Tom
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#29
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These threads are interesting,they pop up from time to time and NONE have ever influenced me to change what I have been doing for years and I’m sure a lot of others are the same?Tom
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#30
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If you have a way of building your engines and it works for you its hard to just change because some internet thread.
These things are EXPENSIVE and time consuming. Lots at stake when you fire up a new build and you put it all together. Its all on you, lot of money flinging around. Its like the .030 lifter bore restrictor deal. Some never run them and swear by it. I have always ran them and never hurt a thing. So its hard to change with so much at stake and you know it works. |
#31
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Well we read theses threads hoping to learn something new. Does it mean you’re going to change the way you’ve been doing it for years, what you’ve learned from the best.
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#32
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Only thing I have to add is this. I know diesel 15-40 oil is popular here, and with owners of other classic cars. I've also seen Rotella t4 mentioned plenty of times. I'd encourage you all running t4 to consider switching to mobile delvac or chevron delo instead. I used to be a Rotella user, but experienced excessive consumption in a bunch if diesel engines ranging in size from 7 to 15.2 liters. I switched to chevron delo and not only was consumption cut nearly in half across the board, but wear metals in my oil samples.were reduced by on average 30%. I had one of my drivers come to me and ask what I had done because he no longer needed to add oil to the cat c15 in that particular rig between changes. I have since learned that there's been a shift away from Rotella by many other outfits as well because of the reasons mentioned.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to TA63 For This Useful Post: | ||
#33
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Quote:
I saw this on the Chevon site, it says the Delo 400 SDE is discontinued and has been replaced by Delo 400 XLE B which is a synthetic blend? Which Delo 15/40 did you change your fleet to? Chevron has several Delo 15-40 diesel oils, there is ADF, XSP, XLE and SDE. https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en...ae-15w-40.html
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Tim Corcoran Last edited by Tim Corcoran; 02-16-2024 at 07:18 AM. |
#34
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Quote:
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to TA63 For This Useful Post: | ||
#35
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Just another example where an oil analysis pays dividends. No one can truly know what their oil is doing for them without one.
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#36
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We just ran a 68 r/a II engine we assembled on the test stand using VR1 and Lucas break in all went well have cut open 2 filters 1 after cam break in 1 after playing with a couple carbs when engine was on test stand.
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#37
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I wonder if any engine is finished breaking in after 20 to 30 minutes?
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The Following User Says Thank You to PunchT37 For This Useful Post: | ||
#38
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We did the 20-30 minute 2000 rpm break in did some playing around and actually did the 20 minute run again. Next run will be on the dyno.
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#39
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Didn't read every post, but I'll say that when breaking in a cam be SURE to NOT use detergent oil. Use break-in oil ONLY. Not racing oil. Not diesel oil. Break in oil. We used to simply use non-detergent 30 weight that was the cheapest. Probably not available today.
Detergents in pretty much ALL oils except break-in oil will remove the lube from the cam and lifters quickly and render them useless for the cam break-in. And, NOT changing the oil after the cam break-in is false economy. My method is a 20-30 minute cam break in, dump the oil and filter, fill with normal fill, run about 500 miles, dump oil and filter again, and good to go. I've been using Rotella diesel spec in all my flat tappet engines for the past 23 years with no issues. The '65 has about 55,000 miles on the cam and lifters and the '67 has about 90,000 miles on the cam and lifters. No issues. Both broken in with non-detergent oil. But to be fair, in the '80's when parts quality was decent.
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Jeff |
The Following User Says Thank You to geeteeohguy For This Useful Post: | ||
#40
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I have engine on my run stand right now,builder put in 20-50,not my pic,it will be out the moment he leaves my garage.Tom
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