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#21
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Quote:
I just hammer it from a dead stop on dry pavement
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Tim Corcoran |
#22
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With adjustable links.
I have adjustable upper arms aftermarket lower arms solid bushing on the lowers air bags and 4-speed brackets and old 3-way adjustable shocks. I pre-load with my air bags to get the car to go straight and quit a bit of negetive pinion angle for traction on the street, No front sway bar either. 90-10's up front for shocks. Hope this will help a little. GT |
#23
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With 3.08's and second gear that's a ton of wheel speed, almost like scating on ice at that point. The rear of the car may drift where ever it wants lol.
Doubtful there is any real cure for it when doing burnouts like that. What's most important is does the car launch nice and straight with sticky tires on a prepped track. That's where suspension tweaking should be done. Our cars are nice and straight at the track but when we horse around on the street they for sure can be ditch hunters if I'm not careful. Lots of factors play into that like wheel speed, the crown in the road, different types of surfaces. Ya just gotta be on your toes lol. Me personally I try to keep wheel speed under control with my right foot so the car is easier to catch and manage. Sounds to me there is probably nothing wrong with your car. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Formulajones For This Useful Post: | ||
#24
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You may have one rear brake grabbing on the rear causing this.
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1963 Cat SD Clone (old school) streeter 1964 GTO post coupe, tripower, 4speed (build) 1965 GTO 389 tripower, 4 speed, driver 1966 GTO dragcar 1966 GTO Ragtop 1969 Tempest ET clone street/strip 1969 GTO Judge RA lll, auto 1969 GTO limelight Conv. 4speed go and show (sold) 1970 GP SSJ 1970 GTO barn find..TLB…390 horse?….yeh, 390 1972 GTO 455 HO, 4 speed, (build) 1973 Grand Safari wagon, 700hp stoplight sleeper 525ci DCI & 609ci LM V head builds |
#25
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Quote:
GT |
#26
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Somebody mentioned double-checking your brakes, which might be a good idea.....unless you've been all over that already and I missed it.
If that's fruitless, then I'd seriously consider getting or borrowing a Go-Pro and mount it where you might be able to spot some unwanted movement in your rear arms or else be able to spot some loose component. Might have to make a few trials with it and switch views depending on the cam model. I dunno. I almost feel bad for asking this, as I know you're a sharp guy but.....you DID tighten all the control arm bolts with the entire weight of the car on the ground and a reasonably full tank of gas?...Right? You know not to pre-load them, I'm sure...there I said it. Which just gave me an idea. Sure wouldn't hurt to loosen them all a bit, drive around the block moderately, and then retorque? Sure as hell couldn't hurt if you're out of ideas, cuz I am....LOLOL Funny side story - I have a buddy that's quite good in his class and bracket races an Olds. He's got a GoPro and not only uses it for troubleshooting, but also takes co-workers and friends for a blast. He'll put in the pass seat, mount the cam on the center of his dash, pointing it at their face and then records their reaction. It's a hoot to see, as these folks have obviously NEVER experienced anything like it. It's detuned to run 10-teens and well-sorted. It's how it all started for me....the rush. |
#27
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Does it go straight under full traction? With my car I try to avoid burnouts on the street..it can get out of shape real quick..at the track a nice controlled burnout for a short distance can even go slightly crooked, but the car goes down the dragstrip straight and easy every time.
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466 Mike Voycey shortblock, 310cfm SD KRE heads, SD "OF 2.0 cam", torker 2 373 gears 3200 Continental Convertor best et 10.679/127.5/1.533 60ft 308 gears best et 10.76/125.64/1.5471 |
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