[Ken K]

I don't think I would use the aluminum Rustoleum on a car because of the work involved. I want to paint a car flat aluminum. I asked a few different paint reps how it could be done with urethane. I was told I would have to put a satin clear over the base coat or the base coat would mar easy. Rustoleum does not have UV protectors in it.

[geeteeohguy]

Excellent results, and superb prep work....black tells no lies! I think The Rustoleum will last for years....I painted the lamps on my '15 Ford 5 years ago with it and the car gets used a lot....the paint has held up perfectly. Thanks for posting.

[Ken K]

The paint last as long as it does not get a lot of sunlight. Paint that uses a hardner last longer. I saw the thread on the Mopar site. Those guys are rolling it on, color sanding the paint and putting more paint on. If you use urethane, you spray it on once and you are done. It's not that you can't make it look good, it's how much work is involved verses spending a little bit more and using urethane.

[Ken K]

This is John Deere Blitz Black that was in the sunlight for over a year. You can see the UV ray damage.

[Ken K]

This is the side that did not get the sunlight.

[2002Z4CSS]

Not bad for a rattle can job.

[6D6GOAT]

well, i just finished wetsanding with some 400 grit. tomorrow (hopefully) i will be able to put the 3rd coat and then the final coat on wed.

i know people have stated that is take months for the paint to cure but i havent had any problems wetsanding it just days later...

[Ken K]

As long as is not put on too thick it will cure faster. . I have had it still be soft for months in 100 degree plus heat. If you have a compressor, I would just spray it on with the cheap HF gravity feed gun. There is very little over spray. I have ran it through both a syphon feed gun and the gravity feed gun. The gravity feed gun works much better.

[Tunas73TA]

This is the first time I've used an HVLP gun since selling my trusty Binks Model7 years ago and
while I'm not sure I'd spray outside body panels with it, it does a great job with the primers and epoxys for my frame and firewall.
Got it at Home Depot...Husky brand I believe:

[6D6GOAT]

i dont have a compressor

[6D6GOAT]

So i put the final coat on yesterday. It only took 4 coats (with a black base coat) 2 coats, then a wet sand with 400 grit..then 2 more final coats.
im really happy with the way it turned out. especially considering i only have a 100 bucks and a couple weekends into it. Im starting to put her all back together now (bumpers, grills, tail lights etc). there is still some orange peel, a few small runs, and some dust in the paint. my plan is to give the paint a couple weeks to cure, then a wet sand with 1500 or 2000 grit...then buff and polish. i will post the final pics in a couple weeks after i do all that. but here is a link to the final coat...

http://1966gto.shutterfly.com/pictures/168

Cheers

[performerrpm]

it doesnt look bad so far but all i can say to myself is " holy sht, this guy just brush rolled his gto"

[Txbobcat]

I never would have even thought it would look that good. I was expecting the trailer trash look.

[Ken K]

Originally Posted by Txbobcat

I never would have even thought it would look that good. I was expecting the trailer trash look.

Speaking of trailers. I sprayed some more on my vintage trailer. That stuff is hard to control. I still got a few runs. It doe not flash like automotive paint. I am going to wait a few months and sand the runs out. After it's sanded I am going to fix it with a can of the cheapest rattle can Walmart paint.

[Ken K]

It works OK when you spray it on unless you get some runs in it.

[padacter67]

You dont need to apply any clear coat to that to add to the protection factor? looks great so far!!

[nh68gto]

What type of machine and product are you using to buff and polish. I have to say I am amazed by this. I need to do my dash area again and have been avoiding it not wanting to spray it.

[1967Tempest]

That goat cam out great!! I have to say that I will always love the rustoleum method. I have done 2 cars this way and they have come out great!!!! I wanted to spary the paint, but the peoples car thet I was doing, didn't want to tape off my garage, cause they were lazy. SO I have only used the roller method.

I will say this. GLOSSY is the only way to go. The flat paint does not have the same flattening agent that automotive paint has. It takes MANY MANY coats to cover. then sanding, you will need to repaint.

Here is a picture of the flat.

[Ragtop Man]

FWIW a lot of body shops sell a synthetic enamel hardener for paints like this ... helps them harden up a lot better so they are not so soft during the blocking polishing phase.

Might turn it to stone, too, LOL.

Worth doing on an obscure or scrap part to try it out.

As a point of reference a guy who hits the local donut cruise on Sat AM did his vintage car (Vette?) with a Wagner Power painter and elbow grease. Can't tell it's not a high dollar job. His shoulders and wrists should be out of the sling any day

[6D6GOAT]

Originally Posted by nh68gto

What type of machine and product are you using to buff and polish. I have to say I am amazed by this. I need to do my dash area again and have been avoiding it not wanting to spray it.

I have a buffer i bought at the local parts store. I am still doing some research on what kind of polishes to buy. Im looking at 3M products but there labeling is soooo vague.