[Ron]

YOU DO NOT HAVE ENOUGH BRAKING CAPABILITY TO TOW A 28 FOOT ENCLOSED TRAILER AND CAR.

[Hooter]

You might want to start practicing back it up once you get it all squared away. Takes a little practice.

[John Langer]

Get a good set of load levelers, good sway bar, air bags for the truck and a good brake controller.

[PLAY400]

Will some one please explain why it can pull a 7000# 16'-18' open trailer but can not pull a 7000# enclosed? If your trailer axles are rated for 3500# each your load shouldn't be 9000# as some suggested they are towing.

Check the Combined Gross Vehicle Weight (CGWV) in your owners manual. It will indicate if the brakes etc are sufficient. My 04 F150 SCrew still has some leeway with my loaded 18' open 7000# rated trailer. BTW I pulled an old heavy 28" travel trailer all over with my old 76 Blazer, 77 Bronco with 35" swampers and eventually my old F250. Never scared me and if it started to sway I'd just hit the trailer brakes and it would straighten out now! Always ran a premium controller, Reese hitch, load bars and anti sway bar. And before I had the trucks I used what ever car I had at the time.

BTW the trailer is going to sway under certain conditions no matter what you tow with you just have to know how to deal with it. Tow with a 5T and the trailer could be on its roof before you notice a problem

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by '69ragr

I have decided that the 2 hour drive to the local track, racing for three days and driving back is a bit wearing on my car, so I purchased a 28' Pace trailer (7000# GWC) and an '08 Avalanche to tow . I am confused and need some direction the factory hitch states:
-Distr.WT. 10,500 # max./ 1,100 # togue WT. and
-Carrying WT. 5,000# / 600# togue WT.

Not sure which is correct, is it that if I use a weight distribution hitch I can use the higher WTs.?

Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Deno

BTW - if you are staying at the track for three days in a row you will absolutely love having an enclosed trailer....

K

[Elarson]

Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller is a MUST for a half-ton truck. Set the "Boost" function to one of the higher settings.

Half ton truck brakes have no excess capacity to stop the rig if the trailer brakes fail. Change the front brake pads to Performance Friction carbon pads. They will not fade, period. If the trailer brakes fail, you may turn the truck rotors blue and warp them, but that beats crashing your rig. All of our trucks have carbon pads.

Eric

[02Hawk]

Originally Posted by '69ragr

Fully loaded I would say about 7000#, I would trailer 120 miles, flat road about 6 times a year. Do not really want to upgrade truck to 2500 series if I can make it work. Theoretically I am under the max of the truck by 1000#+.

The trailer alone will be 4500 lbs minimum...that is what my 24" ft weighs...After you load it up with tools and stuff (and you will pack lots of stuff) plus your car you will be well over 7K. 120 miles is a long haul......make sure you have enough radiator and tranny cooler. I would add an oil cooler. Get the sway bars and add a panhard bar cause that 28 footer is going to sway like hell.

I am close to 10K fully loaded...but I pack a golf cart.

My old Dodge 1500 Hemi worked like a whipped dog hauling the trailer and in a stiff wind it was a beast to haul.....not relaxing at all and 5 miles per gallon.

I stepped up to a GMC 2500 diesel and things are much better.

[drailed]

A 28 foot enclosed is a nice thing to have. Instead of stepping down to an open trailer maybe consider looking into a cheap tow vehicle. Ive seen some pretty good deals on 2 wheel drive 1 tons under $5k around lately as im in the market for one myself. If it were a 1 time deal I might do it with that vehicle but like the others said, it can be done but its an accident waiting to happen.

[beemergary]

I think my 22 x 8.5 ft. weights 3500# empty. If your car weights. 3500# there's your 7000# . Having extra space you'll be tempted to take more items. Golf cart-4 wheeler-gas grill-beer-food-kids-dog. Wait till a bus goes flying by ha. That will get your attention.

[i82much]

Just realize how much you are giving up in the difference between a 1/2 ton and a 3/4 ton. 1/2 ton's are "driver" trucks, set up to be comfortable and do a little work. 3/4 and 1-ton trucks don't have these compromises built in. Different frames, axles, wheels, tires, brakes, suspension, etc.

Have a look at the specs on a 1/2 ton vs. a 3/4 ton sometime, not just towing capacity but the actual size of the brake rotors, shocks, etc. You may be surprised how big the differences really are.

[lust4speed]

One of the benefits to the 3/4 ton is it weighs 1,000 pounds more (still with a gas engine) than a 1/2 ton. Not the best when driving around empty, but appreciated when offsetting a loaded trailer. The flat bed trailer should weigh between 1,800 to 2,200 pounds depending on manufacturer and adding 3,500 for car still brings you in under 5,700 pounds - which is an easy tow for the Avalanche. As was said above, but I'll make a direct point of it - a 7,000 GVW enclosed trailer is acceptable for ATV's and such but leave the car at home because you will be exceeding the design weight of the trailer. So now you would be over the maximum weight of the tow vehicle and the enclosed trailer after loading anything in it.

[Elarson]

Another downside of a half ton truck.......many 1/2 tons have load range C tires. A good trailer-towing vehicle should have load range E tires to be safe....load range D are probably minimum. An overloaded tire can get hot and blow out, potentially sending the rig off the road. I used to know a guy who towed a big camper trailer. He had a rear truck tire blow and it sent him into the median where he rolled the entire rig. Fortunately nobody got hurt.

Hope this helps,
Eric

[270win]

I have a 2003 1500 Reg. cab Chev. 4x4 that I pull our 18' open trailer with. No problem with that...but my 24' enclosed is an entirely different animal. I have a 3/4 Suburban to pull that and it's fine.

BUT- on straight flat highway with D or E load range tires, GOOD break controller, anti sway/load distribution hitch, and even better would be an airbag setup on the back of the Avalanche you should be okay. I'm not sure I'd buy another vehicle for 6 trips per year...take your time and leave lots of stopping room...common sense.

The 99% of the time you're NOT towing that trailer you will like the 1/2 ton Avalanche alot...

[lust4speed]

Here's a shot of bringing back home the '65 Bonneville from Cottonwood, AZ back to CA. We definitely knew the Bonne was back there - much heavier than the GTO or Firebird. The Avalanche served my towing needs quite well for five years before I bought the diesel 2500 longbed pickup. We still tow with the Avalanche to Pontiac Heaven since we bring out two cars.

[beemergary]

Its not really the weight your towing. Its the mass of the trailer-the center of gravity-the size of it which the wind will play HELL with you. There,s a BIG difference towing an open trailer than a closed. Didn't there used to be a saying MOST ACCIDENTS HAPPEN 25 MI. OR LESS FROM HOME. More Cons than Pros here.

[02Hawk]

Mick

I think the Bonne should pull that Chevy...save gas too!

John

[chuckies76ta]

Here's some specs on the Avalanche.

Vehicle Highlights

The 2008 Chevrolet Avalanche gains standard curtain side airbags on all models. This reconfigurable pickup truck is essentially a crew-cab version of Chevrolet's Suburban SUV with a folding midgate separating the cab from the cargo bed. Lowering the midgate extends the bed to 8.2 ft from 5.3. Avalanche seats up to six and comes in LS, LT, and LTZ trims. Each is available with rear-wheel drive or full-time 4-wheel drive that can be left engaged on dry pavement and includes a low-range gear for off-roading. Standard on 2WD Avalanches is a 320-hp 5.3-liter V8 engine. 4WD models get a 310-hp version of the same engine. The latter is capable of running on E85 ethanol-blended fuel. Optional on LT and LTZ models is a 366-hp 6.0-liter V8. All engines have GM's Active Fuel Management cylinder deactivation, and they team with a 4-speed automatic transmission. Maximum towing capacity is 8200 lb. Available safety features include ABS, traction control, antiskid system, and curtain side airbags. GM's Autoride load-leveling suspension is standard on LTZs, optional on LTs. Options include a navigation system and DVD entertainment.

Charles

[chuckies76ta]

You would probably be able to pull that 28 ft empty no problem, but loaded is another issue.

I pull a 24 ft with a 2500 6 liter year is 2000 and 4.10 rear gears, and it does not bad.. Wish GM would install the 6.2 liter in these newer vehicles.

Also, as mentioned by one of the members, the vehicle weight itself has alot to do with how the trailer/truck handlers or tows. Should also be 4x4.

In my opinion 4.10 rear gears in any gas is a must..

Charles

[Rugratman]

If I could..
I just got a 18 ft open trailer for my 67. I have a Caddy Escalade EXT..Same as the Avalanche, It has the 6.0 ltr engine and towing package from GM.

I need to know about the brake controller. How it hooks up?
Is it automatic when hooked up? How about the GM dealer box?

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by Rugratman

If I could..
I just got a 18 ft open trailer for my 67. I have a Caddy Escalade EXT..Same as the Avalanche, It has the 6.0 ltr engine and towing package from GM.

I need to know about the brake controller. How it hooks up?
Is it automatic when hooked up? How about the GM dealer box?

What year Escalade EXT?

There should be a trailer wiring harness available, that hooks to the wires of your brake controller and then just plugs into the underdash fuse block.

K