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#21
03-19-2009, 05:49 PM
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I've never had one here done by him, but I am sure he does very good work. I am not sure about the discovery period as it were, but rubber sleeves notwithstanding, stuff needs to be checked every year or so anyway. Just to be safe. Stuff does tend to come unwound at times. Dave's conversions are highly recommended by people on many boards, no questioning that. Just sounds like you need some extra advance or possibly not. Not my call. Try and see, you can always put it back.
Fix that sharp edge thing. See, now if it'll fit , a large cap HEI could have saved you all that headache cause to change the curve on that all you gotta do is swap some parts on top.... and then chase those little e-clips across the yard when ya fling em off, but that's a post for later. Good luck. |
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#22
03-19-2009, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
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Darby 74 Grandville 2Dr 455 c.i 4550# 2011 1.60 60 ft,7.33@94.55-11.502@117.74  2017, 74 firebird -3600 lbs (all bests) 1.33 60 ft, 6.314@108.39 9.950@134.32 M/T 275/60 ET SS Drag Radial 2023,(Pontiac 505) 1.27 60 ft, 5.97@112.86, 9.48@139.31.... 275/60 Radial Pro's |
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#23
03-20-2009, 09:05 AM
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Last night I took the car out for a while to warm it up and then added 2 more degrees initial timing to it. Up to 18 initial from the 16 degrees that I've been running for a while now. The idle speed increased from the 990/1010 out of gear that I like to run to about 1100+-. I dropped the idle back down to 990/1010 (780ish in gear) and then verified my total timing. 34 degrees max. The idle is maybe a little more SOLID now? The car runs out soooooo much better. I think I'll leave it alone. I was going to open up the slot in the dist to allow 18 mechanical with my 16 initial but the 18 initial I tried yesterday seemed to work fine, so I'll leave it alone for the time being. Cliff might tell me here that I should try more idle fuel and drop the initial back down some. At some point maybe.
Boosting the max timing to 34 has made a WORLD of difference. I also made a painful discovery during this exercise. My vacuum advance is dead. Again. I put a vacuum pump on it to verify its operation and found nobody home. Jeeeeez. I must not be paying attention to anything. It wouldn't hold ANY vacuum at all. I double checked what I was seeing with a B22 advance I have in my tool box. So back out the distributor comes.........
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 frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. 
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#24
03-20-2009, 10:52 AM
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David, are you connected to ported or manifold vacuum? If you are connected to manifold vacuum then your advance, at idle, should be your initial plus whatever amount the vacuum can adds in.
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.68 @ 126 so far... no tuning yet. |
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#25
03-20-2009, 11:04 AM
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I'm on ported. During all this checking the vacuum advance has been unhooked and plugged. And dead.........
I have a new unused B-22 advance can at home. I think I'll check on putting it in. B-20 (what I've been using) starts at 5-7" vacuum. Adds 16 degrees at the crank and is all open at 11-13" vacuum. B-22 (have new one at home) starts at 7-9" vacuum. Adds 16 degrees at the crank and is all open at 14-16" vacuum. I need to verify what my idle vacuum in gear is, cold and warm before I do. I know it runs 16" in park at idle. Never checked it in drive? As long as it's above 7-9" vacuum I guess I'm OK?
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core.
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#26
03-20-2009, 01:06 PM
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It has been my experience that these 'old' V-8's that we enjoy so much respond well to a lot of advance at idle and low rpm cruising. I always used manifold vacuum because it gives the advance at idle and low rpm operation whereas ported doesn't kick in until some higher rpm is reached and I think that is dependent on the carburetor itself. Anyway, every combo is different so I guess you need to experiment a bit to find the sweet spot. Good luck.
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.68 @ 126 so far... no tuning yet. |
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#27
03-20-2009, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
SINCE the vacuum advance is hooked to PORTED vacuum, this won't matter.
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core.
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