[SD455DJ]

Originally Posted by unruhjonny

I have an intake (that I have for a spare engine) which I need to remove that plug from, so I'm all ears on precisely how you pulled it!
Was it simply:
1) douce with penetrant
2) heat with torch till it stops bubling/smoking
3) try to move plug
4) repeat
??

I had my car's original rad recored about twenty years ago;
unfortunately for me, I didn't realize till later that the old guy tossed the ID tag that my rad had on it!

Yep. Dan had to do that procedure for an hour, so probably 5 or 6 reps. Most of the time was for the PB Blaster to soak for a 10 minutes between heatings.

Dennis

[Ramairnacho]

Originally Posted by SD455DJ

We got the new temp and oil pressure sending units installed (it was a real bugger getting the steel plug in the crossover out after 52 years...lots of PB Blaster & heat), along with the temp gauge jumper harness. The new dash harness is all but installed on the dash to be reinstalled this Friday. We also got the heater box with the new copper-brass heater core and replacement control cable back in. We might have working factory gauges this weekend!?!

Dennis

Hi I'm Ignacio I'd like to ask my car has both sending units too on intake . Im.thinkimg drivers side is for water temp but what's the passenger side? My car is auto and original radiator broke long ago but have a non stock replacement. I bought a 70 esprit as a parts car and it has the original radiator cap and I'd tag and I believe it's a 4 row was wondering if original heater core is the brass copper one is it best to have it rebuilt along with radiator and who does those. I was referred to a man in Michigan for the radiator but unclear on heater core. Thank you

[SD455DJ]

Ignacio, The 3-prong sending unit on the passenger side is the original piece in the original location and is used for both gauge and non-gauge (idiot lights) applications. When you order gauges the driver side plug in the manifold is replaced by the temp sending unit and a jumper wire is added from the sender to the original passenger side electrical connector plug (directions show you where to plug it in).

As for radiator repair/recore shops, I would image they all recore heater cores as well, since they are just small radiators put together the same way as their big brothers...copper, brass, & solder. I was given the name of Ferndale Radiator Repair in Ferndale, MI for this work. I haven't used them yet, so I have no advice whether they are good or not, but my friend says they do good work.

If your Esprit has factory A/C then it should have had a 4-core radiator originally.

Dennis

[SD455DJ]

We made good progress today by getting the dash with the factory gauges & tach reinstalled and all the connections made to the proper homes. Before we got too far we connected the battery to see if there was any smoke or fire or blown fuses...none thank goodness. Then (with the key in the off position) we turned on the headlights, then the emergency flashers and noticed the oil & water gauges were pulsating with the flasher rhythm...weird. They didn't do it when the key was in the 'run' position...hmmm. Checked the fuses again and none were blown...good. Checked all the other electronics to make sure they were getting power, which they were, except for the wipers...what the heck! So we decided to see if the car would crank and start...it did...yeah! The tach worked, the fuel & volt gauges worked, but the oil & water temp gauges weren't...crap! Oil would read at a little below '0' zero and stayed there when the engine was running and rest a little above when off. The water temp would read a little below '0' zero when running (even when fully warmed up) then rest slightly above the 1/4 (155 degree?) hash mark when off. We're wondering if the printed circuit may have bad grounds and pathway circuits as it is the original. We checked all the grounds that are associated with the dash harness and they were solid and tight. The pictures are of the gauges when key is 'off'. So we have some more work ahead for us now...once we can figure out what the heck is wrong.

Anyone have any insight on what the issue(s) may be? Printed circuit?

Dennis

[Ramairnacho]

Originally Posted by SD455DJ

We made good progress today by getting the dash with the factory gauges & tach reinstalled and all the connections made to the proper homes. Before we got too far we connected the battery to see if there was any smoke or fire or blown fuses...none thank goodness. Then (with the key in the off position) we turned on the headlights, then the emergency flashers and noticed the oil & water gauges were pulsating with the flasher rhythm...weird. They didn't do it when the key was in the 'run' position...hmmm. Checked the fuses again and none were blown...good. Checked all the other electronics to make sure they were getting power, which they were, except for the wipers...what the heck! So we decided to see if the car would crank and start...it did...yeah! The tach worked, the fuel & volt gauges worked, but the oil & water temp gauges weren't...crap! Oil would read at a little below '0' zero and stayed there when the engine was running and rest a little above when off. The water temp would read a little below '0' zero when running (even when fully warmed up) then rest slightly above the 1/4 (155 degree?) hash mark when off. We're wondering if the printed circuit may have bad grounds and pathway circuits as it is the original. We checked all the grounds that are associated with the dash harness and they were solid and tight. The pictures are of the gauges when key is 'off'. So we have some more work ahead for us now...once we can figure out what the heck is wrong.

Anyone have any insight on what the issue(s) may be? Printed circuit?

Dennis

Looks like a behind you with my project. Is it possible oil / temp guage defective ? Or even polarity connected backwards, defective sending units. Just thinking out loud. I should be going through simular issues too. Will have my harness in and operational before I remove engine. I.. very curious to know if original harness or new. That might be issue too

[Ramairnacho]

I also have electric diagram from factory I will take pics of it for you to read if you like

[unruhjonny]

I seem to remember reading somewhere here of how to check if a temp sender was working;
I cannot recal reading of a similar test for the oil pressure sender.

I have read of grounding issues for temp senders when teflon tape ect was used on the sender;
The pulsing makes me wonder if there's a possible grounding issue.

You replaced, or adjusted the non gauges engine loom to work with the gauges dash loom right?

[johnta1]

I'd agree with the grounding issue.
Is the dash grounded?
Engine to firewall grounded?

[SD455DJ]

Originally Posted by Ramairnacho

I also have electric diagram from factory I will take pics of it for you to read if you like

Thanks, we have the electrical diagrams.

Dennis

[SD455DJ]

Originally Posted by unruhjonny

I seem to remember reading somewhere here of how to check if a temp sender was working;
I cannot recal reading of a similar test for the oil pressure sender.

I have read of grounding issues for temp senders when teflon tape ect was used on the sender;
The pulsing makes me wonder if there's a possible grounding issue.

You replaced, or adjusted the non gauges engine loom to work with the gauges dash loom right?

We installed the factory dash harness for gauges I bought from you and everything checked out for continuity before we installed it, but it's possible some of the connections could be slightly corroded and not making good contact yet. The pulsing made us think a grounding issue too, but we're also thinking it could be a worn printed circuit just slightly grounding on the cluster housing, which does have a separate solid ground. We do have other temp and oil pressure senders to try as well. Both senders are new from Ames, btw. We didn't use any teflon tape either.

Dennis

[SD455DJ]

Originally Posted by johnta1

I'd agree with the grounding issue.
Is the dash grounded?
Engine to firewall grounded?

Yep, dash grounded, engine grounded and confused too!

Dennis

[RicksGTO]

I had some weird ground issues on my gauges that turned out to be the Z shaped ground from the headlight switch to the speedo housing. I had the metal Z-bracket ground sandwiched next to the plastic speedo insert instead of directly contacting the metal speedo cluster. Might not be it but fairly easy to check

[SD455DJ]

Originally Posted by RicksGTO

I had some weird ground issues on my gauges that turned out to be the Z shaped ground from the headlight switch to the speedo housing. I had the metal Z-bracket ground sandwiched next to the plastic speedo insert instead of directly contacting the metal speedo cluster. Might not be it but fairly easy to check

Hmm, I don't recall a 'Z' bracket ground from the original dash and harness. Do you have a picture, or an assembly manual exploded drawing to illustrate it and how/where it attaches?

I do have a new printed circuit coming from our host in a few days.

Dennis

[GREGGDOG]

Here's a picture. Mounts on headlight switch right behind the dash bezel.
My ground issue was some extra silver paint on my parking lamp plugs.

[unruhjonny]

I have my dash (assembled) beside my office computer;
here is where is should be:

[SD455DJ]

Thanks Greggdog & Unruhjonny for the pic's! Those are great and I'm thinking it must be there, but we'll check when we pull the upper dash apart this next week to install the new printed circuit.

Dennis

[SD455DJ]

Yep, it's there...you can just make it out in this picture above the original cluster before the dash got pulled.

Dennis

[unruhjonny]

it's one of those pieces that can easily be missed upon reassembly.

[Region Warrior]

Originally Posted by SD455DJ

Yep. Dan had to do that procedure for an hour, so probably 5 or 6 reps. Most of the time was for the PB Blaster to soak for a 10 minutes between heatings.

Dennis

Next time try candle wax.
Get good and hot around bolt, plug, stud.
Then melt candle wax on threads.

[SD455DJ]

Originally Posted by Region Warrior

Next time try candle wax.
Get good and hot around bolt, plug, stud.
Then melt candle wax on threads.

I'd be surprised if he has any candles being a bachelor, lol! Maybe he does for power outages...I have read the candle wax really works well and we'll have to try it on the next tough nut, bolt, plug. Thanks for the suggestion.

Dennis