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#261
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I really do not like it (The color) I just tested one can and will check the other one to. My invoice says N182T wich is correct, but the cans say #1296 Ames, 1 spectramaster, DK Natural. And that is it, so if someone that has bought the N182T could check what it says on the can it would be great. My problem now is that if this is the wrong color it will take me atleast 6 week to get more and I should have the engine in the frame in about 3 weeks... Oh well we will see.. |
#262
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The paint is ok, after shaking the cans for 10 minutes it is very close to the original color..
So what to do now ?? I can not start with the bodywork for a month or so as I am waiting for my painter to get his new boot working, the interior is still a month or two away, the engine will be another couple of weeks before it is back.. I guess I just will clean up my place tomorrow and see what turns up |
#263
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In '93 at Indy GTOAA Nats, my wife sold Steve Ames a aerosol can of custom mixed '71-early 73 engine paint. He wanted to ck it out & duplicate it to sell. The can we sold him was from a case of spraycans made from the color analysis of a 6,000 mile original '72 valve cover that had been on a garaged car that hadn't been started in nearly 20 years. Had several cases of these enamel spraycans made over the years and sold them to friends & at swappers. The color also matched what Lars G had published in a GTOAA publication, as also had a case made from those specs. The color should be dead on, only problem is one will usually not get the same smooth finish result on valvecovers, out of an aerosol can, as one would with a modern urethane mix shot out of a gun. Make sure the can is shaken well & on valvecovers put on in several light coats. Good luck.
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Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms. |
#264
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Well I really do not know what to say about the Ames paint...
When I did go back to my workshop this morning the color was baby blue, not teal, no grinish stuff just wron or well I tink it is wrong,, So I did clean up my flexplate, the color was brighter than on the oil pan but not much, I has of course 40 years on its back and some heat, but no UV and minimal debries from the road, so yes I guess it would not be the same as the original color 40 years ago but close, and the one from Ames is not.. Luckly for me the Ames paint was pretty easy to get off, after 48 hours of drying I did poor some thinner on a paper towel and wiped my oil pan clean, it took 3 wipes and it was gone, I have never seen anything like that before, so my advice to the ones that have used the paint on their engines, keep the thinner far away from your engine... So tomorrow I will check around to see if someone here has the VHT SP122 and order 3 cans of OER K89210 from summit, hopefully one of them will match better. |
#265
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Your work is very commendable! The photos are about the best I've seen! I look forward to seeing the updates almost as much as the clubhouse "babe of the day" thread (although it's been dying lately ) You do very good work, I wish I could hire you! The original tach was missing the pointer? It usually falls into the tach somewhere, I've glued some back on and worked perfectly fwiw...Keep it up, you will have an OUTSTANDING car when done, and I will admire your thread with each update!
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#266
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Just ran across your pic of your oil pan, in the paint thread. Sorry I missed that one. The new blue almost looks light blue gray like the late '73 formulation. That is not what i was putting in cans. Can you have the paint mixed locally? That's what I would do if intent on staying with enamel.
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Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms. |
#267
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Forrest
Regarding the tach, I bought that one on Ebay for 15 buck, most of all to get the housing, I have the needle but I am thinking of swapping the internals, we will see. Ohh my lemans did come with the broken watch and I figure I just have better use of a tach Old I can get paint made here but it will cost an arm and both legs, will have some made however if the two other do not match. Any update on the parts and rally wheels by the way ? no hurry as I spent way to much around Xmas and will have to buy some engine parts soon |
#268
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FWIW Espen, here is the 71-73 PPG paint formula from GM. Called "PMD engine blue". The body shop supply stores in the US that sell PPG paints still have this formula in their computers. PPG Number is 14580 Blue
Tint Guide: M119 73.3 M122 30.1 M117 27.9 M121 13.1 M115 10.6 MX198 9.8 M149 377.4 I've used this on a few 71 engines I painted and it's dead on to a set of low miles 71 Lemans valve covers I had. Of course this is a bit much to paint a motor but I could not find it in a spray can. I think it's a tough color to make out exactly through digital pictures.
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Norm J |
#269
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Thanks Norm
I will give the paint shop a call |
#270
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Forrest
Sure you can hire me, just let me work in my sweatpaints, smoke, have the radio on and do my stuff, if you have coffe and a place to sleep to I would be happy, just like a vacation |
#271
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I've had a few Norwegian friends over the years and they were very hard workers and did everything with precision,( one was a jeweler) if you were here you could even hunt for your own food! (125 acres in a rural farm area!) My great grand pa built my house in 1870. You could sleep on the 150 year old bed in my house Have xm radio in the shop so you would have to listen to oldies! Would be a great vacation! You'd love my coffee..I grind up my beans fresh..they actualy have a coffee bean roaster here in town!
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#272
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Quote:
__________________
1971 Pontiac GT-37 Car is a junk yard dog and maybe one day will be restored. |
#273
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That sounds great ! can almost smell the coffee
You have changed the bed sheets a couple of times the last decade right ? Hard working Norwegians? I guess so, we have it in the blood I think.. pretty proud people here. By the way did you know that there is around 5 million persons in the US today with Norwegian harritage ? that is as many people that live in Norway. Anyways Forrest if you are serious about it just send me a PM. I have some time now and at the end of the summer/authom. |
#274
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Quote:
Bill Nawrot |
#275
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Checked up on the paint code, no one in Norway can make it, no good or to old..
I will go to my painter tomorrow with my flrx plate and see if I find a pait that will match it and if I find one I will take both to the paint shop and have them make some cans to me. That is if the VHT SP122 does not match, I will know monday or tuesday. |
#276
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Before I paint a motor, I paint the exhaust area with "New Cast Grey Hi-Temp Exhaust Paint". No engine paint will stand up to exhaust temps, so when it burns off you have grey instead of rust.
Bill N. |
#277
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Thanks Bill, that was a really good tip, never thought of that.
I will try it with my VHT casy iron high temp paint (SP997 or 998 ? do not remember) it should atleast keep the rust away. |
#278
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Muffler Question
My orignal ones where not original.. (Ford I think..)
So I should have two with a shell lengt of 20-21" 2" offset inlet and 2 1/4" outlet, but sould the outlet be center or offset ? |
#279
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Hi Loffen! I painted my intake and exhaust side with "Hagmans Zink Primer" stand up to 600 degree CELCIUS! Worked well for me.Peje
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#280
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Quote:
Bill N. |
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