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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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Replacing a rear quarter panel
I have been working on cars for 60 years and I professional mechanic for over 30. But I was not an auto body man. I have done lots of easy body work over the years. Do you think it would be possible for me to replace the rear quarter panel on a 1964 GP. My grandson has tried to get it fixed with no luck. He keeps getting screwed by body shops. I have seen it done many times but never tried it. My son is a welder by trade and I can gas weld. I am not able to electric weld because I have a pacemaker. I would like to try to help my grandson with his car..
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#2
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I would suggest that it would be best to use a high quality mig to weld in a new quarter and by somebody who has experience butt welding that gauge of sheetmetal. My big question is whether you can find a relatively rust free donor car. Also have a question to whether your grandson's car has rust or not. A rusted outer wheelhouse panel will complicate things.
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'69 GTO Convertible - Acquired October 2020. An all original project car. Restomod is underway PROJECT THREAD '83 Chevy Choo Choo SS El Camino - LT1 350/4L60e, Owned for 30 Years, completed 2nd restomod in 2018 PHOTO 2019 BMW 440ix - Twin turbo I6, 8spd auto. PHOTO '55 Chevy Bel Air Sport Coupe - Ram Jet 350 / T56 Magnum 6spd, Restomod Completed Sept. 2012, Sold Sept. 2021 PHOTO |
#3
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Are you talking about a complete quarter or patch panels? There are lots of good video's on YouTube doing metalwork.
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#4
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The car is an almost rust free Ca. car that was hit on the left side. We have a used complete quarter pan from another car already. The damage is not extensive but the panel is creased vertically and dented bad enough that fixing it would not be practical. If I do it I am planning on removing the old panel at the factory spot welds. There would be little or no butt welding. I planned on removing it at the door jam, pinch weld, at the welds behind the chrome trim where the roof meets the quarter and behind the quarter panel extension.
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#5
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If you have a panel available, I would go for it. I had minor body work experience prior to doing both quarter panels on my car. I think doing the whole quarter at the factory seams is much easier that trying to cut in patch panels. I bought a decent spot weld cutter and went to work.
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#6
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Quote:
I wouldn't discard the removed quarter though. Once it's off and easily accessible from both sides, repairing it would be much easier with a hammer and dolly. Then either save it or sell it.
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'69 GTO Convertible - Acquired October 2020. An all original project car. Restomod is underway PROJECT THREAD '83 Chevy Choo Choo SS El Camino - LT1 350/4L60e, Owned for 30 Years, completed 2nd restomod in 2018 PHOTO 2019 BMW 440ix - Twin turbo I6, 8spd auto. PHOTO '55 Chevy Bel Air Sport Coupe - Ram Jet 350 / T56 Magnum 6spd, Restomod Completed Sept. 2012, Sold Sept. 2021 PHOTO |
#7
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I totally agree. Save that old panel!
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#8
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The old panel is not savable. The body shop the car was at all winter cut a big hole in it. I have no idea why. The car also sat outside all that time with the door removed and the 2X2 ft hole. Another reason I want to try myself.
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#9
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one reason why body shops get away with crap like this is the car owners arent diligent in what kind of care the car gets.
If i saw this happening to my car it would get sealed up or put inside or both. Keep tabs on your project and if this does happen and shop doesnt care,cover it yourself while you are finding a new shop
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Everything comes and goes Pleasure moves on too early And trouble leaves too slow |
#10
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No reason you can't gas weld a replacement quarter panel on the car. Gas welding was the go to process for sheet metal replacement for the first 70 years of auto body work. Only the economics of commercial body repair led to it no longer being monetarily feasible due to it's a slower process and it required a more skilled employee.
Do some interweb searching on the subject and you will find lots of information. There are some very high quality welding torches still available today to make the job easier. Plus you can purchase one brand new and the money saved over a mig or tig will pay for your new panel. And no matter which way you go practice and attention to detail will be the keys to a successful completion. And remember it's just sheet metal if you make a mistake just step back take a breath and start again. After all you started out replacing bad sheet metal. https://www.tinmantech.com/products/welding/ http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.ph...talworking.14/ Good luck
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If it breaks. I didn't want it in the first place. _____________________________________________ 69 GTO \ 72 FIREBIRD \ 1/2 OF A 64 GTO \ 70 JAVELIN \ 52 FORD PU \ 51 GMC PU \ 29 FORD PU \ 85 ALFA ROMEO SPYDER \ A HANDFUL OF ODD DUCATI'S \ 88 S10 LT1 BLAZER & MY DAILY DRIVER 67 SUBURBAN. |
#11
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Back in the 70’s ...we gas welded and brazed 1/4 panels on....patch panels too. The Mig didn’t hit the body shops until 1980 or so....in my area anyways.
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#12
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Back in the 70’s ...we gas welded and brazed 1/4 panels on....patch panels too. The Mig didn’t hit the body shops until 1980 or so....in my area anyways.
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#13
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Mig or tig
Structurally brazing is not a strong enough method to weld a structural QP on. The factory only brazed the QP on in a couple of spots to hold it until it was spot welded on.
Mig welders are cheap now. Get one and practice plug welding with it. Very easy to learn. Drilling the spot welds is the best and cleanest way. Do that on both QP's and it will be an easy job. Use some self tapper screws to hold it in place while you weld it up. Hard work is drilling the spot welds.
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